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International Threat
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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
DIY Fuel system

There are many variations of this setup and it is completely customizable. Here is a basic idea of the plumbing.



Ground the ground wire off to a bolt that holds the stock fuel pump on. I wired in a fuse for the power side and then piggy backed it onto the factory pump. Both the stock fuse and my fuse is 30 amp w/ 10 gauge wire. I have a few extra 30a fuses on hand in case one blows but the idea is if one blows, the other will still work. The idea is the same for using two pumps... if one goes down you still have another that should be able to sufficently flow enough fuel to drive the truck.

On the pump bracket there are 3 studs, the one towards the back I cut off so I only used two to affix it to the frame rail. It worked perfectly and I only had to drill one 7/16" hole in the frame to mount it. See picture for the one I removed.


The left most stud in this picture is the one I removed. The right most stud is the one that needs a 7/16" hole drilled for it. For the single stud, there is already a hole there to use.

Set the second pump up in the same direction as the factory one. Install all of the lines and just make sure none of the lines are kinked. Given the spacing and setup I've suggested... you should easily be able to cut all lines to length, and install this in about 2 hours max.

A few other pics.



A few suggestions... do not use less then 5/16" line for any of the setup. Use Teflon tape on all of the fittings.

You can run this with the stock fuel bowl, with an aftermarket return, with a custom return. An easy way to do the fuel bowl delete is to run the main line into a 5micron filter with dual inlet/outlet. Cap off one inlet, but use both outlets to go to each pump. Do the opposite on the next filter (2 micron) after the pumps. Then run the line up to a regulator and then into the heads.

You want your fuel pressure to be 60 psi +/- 10 psi. Some trucks run best in the low 50's while others like mid 60's. If you use the stock fuel bowl, you can use ITP's adapter fitting to make your own fuel pressure gauge, or you can buy/install a fuel pressure gauge in cab. I would highly suggest doing one or the other! Ideally you don't want to see pressure drop @ WOT... and with two pumps with 3/8" line... you should not see that even with supporting mods to make 500+ rwhp. I run 58 psi @ idle and it dropped to low 50's with one pump. With the addition of a second pump, the psi stays at 58 psi @ WOT.



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Here is take 2 of the DIY Fuel system. The first system held up just fine to 238cc hybrids. I now have 300cc hybrids and the volume needed to be increased for maximum horsepower.


2 Napa Filter Bases - 4770 - $36.42
Dual inlet and outlet 1/2" Female NPT.

1 Napa Fuel/Water seperator - 3405 - $19.99

1 Napa 2 micron Fuel Filter - 3528 - $16.33

Total: $115.71


Fleetguard sells the same filters too, which I get a discount on.
3405 = FS1212
3528 = FF5320

Total price of products: $475.





I prefer to use two pumps so I used two stockers since I had them on hand. They should be capable of handling 70 gph @ 70 psi which is enough for a powerstroke with large injectors. Also in case one fails, the other builds more then enough pressure for daily driving and startups. The one way check valves are there to ensure that if one pump fails, the fuel doesn't try to loop back through the other pump.
 

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International Threat
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