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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I wanted to create a new thread to get the most visibility. I read through the sticky at the top and had a question regarding it. The list has about 20 or so things that are different in the early 99's vs late 99.5+ Of that list of things that are different, are any of those considered a bad thing? I'm having a hard time telling since I'm new to the diesel thing.

One of the vehicles I'm considering looking at is 2/98 mfg date.
 

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What u talkin bout willis
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I wanted to create a new thread to get the most visibility. I read through the sticky at the top and had a question regarding it. The list has about 20 or so things that are different in the early 99's vs late 99.5+ Of that list of things that are different, are any of those considered a bad thing? I'm having a hard time telling since I'm new to the diesel thing.

One of the vehicles I'm considering looking at is 2/98 mfg date.
THAT WILL BE A EARLY BUILD AS MINE IS THE DIFFRENCES ARE TURBO, UPPIPES, IC TUBES, SPYDER, AND SOME SUSPIENSION PARTS AND ECM'S ARE DIFFRENT AND IM SURE THERES MORE AND PEOPLE WILL CHIME IN SHORTLY
 

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I don't think any of the differences are "bad" per se just different. But you can upgrade your rig with later options and stuff that the early '99s didn't come with.

My truck didn't come with keyless entry and I plan on having that using the factory keyless entry system. I'd also like to upgrade from the cloth seats to the later Lariat leather seats. I like them a lot.

Chris
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
So there are no inherent flaws then with the early 99's? The price is good on this one I'm considering, but I want to make sure it's not because of problems the early 99's had.

I guess the question would be, had you to do it all over again. Would you skip buying an early 99 and get a later 99?


Thanks
 

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I don't think there's any flaws. If I had to do it all over again, I would probably have gotten a 99.5 or later just for the simple fact that the aftermarket supports them better. I take pride in the fact that I have the powerstroke V8 on my fender, makes it rare.

Chris
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Well I guess that I can live with that. Of the aftermarket parts, I was thinking of the basic that everyone seems to do, air, chip and exhaust and probably airbags for pulling my travel trailer. Are those among the things that have limited support?
 

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Not at all. All of those mods can easily be gotten for the early '99. But it won't stop there. Once you get the modding bug, you begin to see what is supported and what's not. One of the biggest limitations is the turbo upgrades. Basically the only drop in aftermarket turbo for the early '99 is Bean's D66. After that, you basically have to upgrade to the later style up pipes, intake manifold, and a few other things to install a different turbo. But if you have a lot of $$$ it's no problem.

For what you want to do, here's what I'd do:

1. Air: DIY Tymer ($40)
Ford AIS (~$198) absolutely the best filtration possible. It flows better over stock.

2. Exhaust: MKO (ebay), MBRP, or Farmboys. All are very reasonably priced.

3. Chip: Either a DP Tuner or Tony Wildman. I have DP and it totally woke up my early '99. It's like a whole new truck. I've never run the Wildman chip but those that do love it.

Chris
 

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Only bad flaw with the early 99 is the same flaw most PSDs have, but it’s worse on the early 99 so look carefully before buying, the factory air box and intake can leak dust into the turbo and engine. Mine was this way when I bought it with 130k on it. I wasn’t as smart as you and I didn’t research before buying so I didn’t know to look. I wound up having to replace the turbo and rebuild the engine.

On a good note the early 99 has the good rods in it if you want to build for power.

The main thing is to be aware of what you have when you do mods or buy parts, they also made a F-250 light duty in 99 which is basically a 99 F-150 body.

Oh, and it has a 15* HPOP which is not as good as the later 17* HPOP but you wont notice unless you get performance injectors.

Also I noticed on mine that the rear end sits about 2” higher than all the 99.5-03 trucks I have seen, which can be good or bad depending on what you tow and do with the truck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks CVDenson. This would only be a pulling rig, I have a 2007 F150 FX4 as my daily driver, but it doesn't pull my 7,800lbs trailer very well even with a CAI, Custom Tunes and a Magnaflow Exhaust, that and I'm worried about the tranny going out prematurely on it with pulling so close to my GCVWR (14,500 Max, I'm at 14,100). Thus my reason for looking into a 3rd vehicle just to go on our vacations with.

Alabamafrog, that's great info, I hadn't heard that before about the Air intake being leaky. I was told however, that putting an aftermarket CAI on might not be a good idea since the oils you put on those filters would get sucked into the turbo and cause basically the same thing your describing.

I'm curious about what you mean by the light duty statement though. Are you saying that all F250's were that way in early 99 or just some. Would you have to look up VIN's to figure that out? If so, how do you find out which ones were light duty?

Of the mods I was considering, probably DP Tuner, exhaust and intake of some kind. I thought I read on these forums that having a tuner has increased the MPG for most people. Was I dreaming about something to tell my wife to get her to sign off on it or is this true?
 

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Thanks CVDenson. This would only be a pulling rig, I have a 2007 F150 FX4 as my daily driver, but it doesn't pull my 7,800lbs trailer very well even with a CAI, Custom Tunes and a Magnaflow Exhaust, that and I'm worried about the tranny going out prematurely on it with pulling so close to my GCVWR (14,500 Max, I'm at 14,100). Thus my reason for looking into a 3rd vehicle just to go on our vacations with.
Caramon, no problem. We're here to help. I wished I would've looked for these kinds of forums before I purchased my truck. I'd like to address what Alabama has been saying about the intakes of the early '99. They suck! He says his motor was dusted. Basically these stock intakes tend to leak past the filter allowing dust particles and what not to reach the turbo and into the combustion chamber, hence the dusted engine. You can tell if an intake has not filtered well by removing the tubes and 1) looking down them to see any dust and 2) checking the fins of the turbo. If the fins look shreaded then walk away from the truck. When I bought my truck this is how my fins looked, but I didn't know anything about diesel engines at the time, especially the 7.3. My truck ended up being dusted and I replaced the motor and turbo with a complete drop in crate engine 40,000 miles ago. I sure have learned a lot since then.

I'm not a big fan of oiled air filters either, which is why I opted for the Ford Severe Duty Intake. These are pretty stout. The filter element is made from Donaldson who makes all the air filters for the military. I need a good filter anyway since I live in Yuma, Az. The airflow is better than stock and it works well for my application. Here's a link to one at Dfuser: DFUSER Diesel Performance Products Exhaust High Performance Part Diesel Intake Diesel Power Chips. Scroll down and you'll see it.

The light duty F250s that Alabama was talking about are in the same body as the F150 and were only run in the late 90's IIRC. DP tuner will increase you're mileage. For your application since you will be using a Superduty as a towing platform, the DP 40T and/or 60T would be good along with the 80 economy tune. If you can get your wife in on all the fun with modding powerstrokes, half the battle is done, and it just takes money. Always tell your wife that "it's for better gas mileage." Works everytime. :thumb:

Chris
 

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Only reason I mentioned the light duty F-250 is because if you get any parts some parts places will get them confused if you don't stress it is a superduty.

The air filter I use does NOT require cleaning or oiling, after a few years (depending on driving conditions) you just replace it with another one. I’ll include a pic at the bottom so you can see what I got on mine. Cost $40 and it will filter and flow way better than stock.

If it were me and I bought the early 99 for towing and didn’t plan to really go wild with mods here is what I would do in this order;
1. DIY intake $40
2. Gauges $300
3. Straight pipe the exhaust $75
4. Trucool 40K tranny cooler $120
5. BTS tranny valve body $250
6. Fuel tank, prepump filter and FPR mods $35
7. Good flip chip from DP or TW $400

So for about $1300 I’d have it like Ford should have built it.
Of course I’d do all the maintenance and change ALL the fluids right after I bought it.



 

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differences in early 99

Only bad flaw with the early 99 is the same flaw most PSDs have, but it’s worse on the early 99 so look carefully before buying, the factory air box and intake can leak dust into the turbo and engine. Mine was this way when I bought it with 130k on it. I wasn’t as smart as you and I didn’t research before buying so I didn’t know to look. I wound up having to replace the turbo and rebuild the engine.

Wow ,what happened that you needed a rebuild?
 

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Wow ,what happened that you needed a rebuild?
Dust getting by the factory air intake ruined the turbo and the engine compression. Compression was down to 200-300 psi. Also the vales were worn out and sharp on the edges. Dust kills a PSD, cost me $4000 in parts and machine work to rebuild mine doing it myself. Got quotes from $7000 to $12,000 for a new engine. When buying a PSD definitely check the air intake for signs of dust and put a good filtration system on it like the DIY setup.
 

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differences in early 99

Im curious because I bought this 99 from a person who lived on dirt roads.I pressure washed it all day to get the layers of Arkansas dirt off the under side. The truck runs ok,but I noticed a crack in the filter housing.This guy broke every snap in the truck.Even the pin on the steering column.Im cleaning everything up.All the filters & fluids ,bearings,and brakes.Even the emergency brakes & cables.Shocks were broke ,steering was out,i-beam was toast.One thing though,there's soot around the tubes of the inter cooler.I cleaned them up and tighten them down. I know if I look,Im gone take things apart.:hehe:
This is my first diesel,is this how they effect every one.:thumb:
 

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differences in early 99

Dust getting by the factory air intake ruined the turbo and the engine compression. Compression was down to 200-300 psi. Also the vales were worn out and sharp on the edges. Dust kills a PSD, cost me $4000 in parts and machine work to rebuild mine doing it myself. Got quotes from $7000 to $12,000 for a new engine. When buying a PSD definitely check the air intake for signs of dust and put a good filtration system on it like the DIY setup.
On the gassers I stuck a fitting in the spark plug hole to test for compression and would of like to seen 200-300 psi.Were /how do I test for compression and what should I be seeing?
 

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I had to remove the glow plugs and rent a gauge and adapter from a local diesel shop then I did it just like on a gasser. Do not put any oil or anything in the chamber to do a “wet” test, there aint enough clearance and bad things can happen. Should be around 400 psi, some say 350 is okay, if mine had of stayed above 300 I would have been happy. You’ll also need a good battery charger on it for all the cranking required and let the starter cool good between cylinders. My starter died a week after I got the engine back together, may have been coincidence.
 
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