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Hello, members. I just bought the latest Diesel Powers magazine Oct. volume 8. Why? I have no idea kind of like have to touch paint when sign posted says "wet paint". There is an article in the Diesel Tech about how to do a head stud install cab-on. So I went to the article and read it, now I’m not an expert but I have done cab-on head and studs removal and installations on about six trucks now including my own. All I have to say about what they published is WTF are they thinking, and did they really do any research on this at all. They say it was done at Flynn’s Shop so I guess that the research.
First let me start on the passenger’s side, they state to make room on that side, Flynn removes part of the evaporator core housing (10 screws). With just one portion of the shell removed, it provides enough room to access all the head bolts (you don’t have to pull the evaporator core itself).Later in the article it is said that the top rear bolt won’t come out because of clearance and to zip tie in the up position so when you pull the head it will be able to be removed.
Well I guess that sounds ok, but remember I’m not a shop like Flynn here so maybe I’m just wrong in my method. I remove the battery, tray, and any of the vacuum stuff on the inner fender well. I then remove the inner fender well, to make room, and will be easier for the EGR delete up pip installation. Then I go inside the cab and remove the nuts that hold the evaporator box in place(6 nuts) disconnect the vacuum lines and grab the whole box with evaporator in it and yank it out and put it where battery was upside down and tie it off to tow hook to hold out of the way. Now you can get all the head bolts including the one that they couldn’t. Then of course depending on whether you are doing one for one or removing head just go on and then reverse removal for installation.
Second I like this one a lot the driver’s side. According to Diesel Power they say that per Ford shop Manual illustrates that the cylinder and head removal can and should be done in frame (it even shows you how to dent the firewall to reach the rear bolts), maybe some ford techs can prove or disprove that statement. All I know that when someone is paying me to work on their truck, they wouldn’t be too happy if they saw I beat the crap out of their truck’s firewall to get a head bolt out.
Here’s what I do I remove the nuts for the transmission cross member, I remove the driver’s side engine mount nuts, and I loosen the passengers’ engine mount nuts. I get a floor jack and a 2x4 and put it at the exhaust manifold area and rise (tilt) engine off the driver’s side engine mount as high as I can. Then I take the bolt out and replace with stud if one for one method, or lower and remove head. Then reverse installation.
Anyway please don’t follow Flynn or according to Diesel Power magazine Ford’s example and beat the crap out of you firewall, you don’t have too. I really can’t believe they put that in there, for the DIY guy to follow. I know the issue before this one had on the cover world’s greatest turbo reviews and it was only about ATS turbos, what the he**.

Thanks and sometimes don’t do what the magazine tells you to.
 

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well i dont know? i do at least 3 stud jobs a month and i never remove cab. i always remove the entire evaporater core box and i dont half it.i guess it really how you like to do it! :dunno: as for driver side i NEVER EVER DENT FIREWALL i always put 2 headstuds in head with rubber band the 2 at rear bottom and install head then i install rest. its easy if you dont have room on that side to torque to take body bolts out of that side and raise cab 3 inches.
 

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Hey Mad, did I read somewhere that you did a 1 for 1 swap with your studs? How has that held up? Would you do it again? How much HP are you pushing on that truck?
 

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Hey Mad, did I read somewhere that you did a 1 for 1 swap with your studs? How has that held up? Would you do it again? How much HP are you pushing on that truck?
I know you asked mad but i did same thing with my truck lol. i figured what the heck i had nothing to loose and my head gaskets where 4 months old. ive been through a few dynos and many street scuffels with very upset people in mustangs and cameros and not one problem yet!!:rofl:
 

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I have pretty much stopped subscribing to diesel magazines because there just isn't much substance to them. I pretty much only buy one every now and again (when I go on business travel) to see what their saying about stuff but I definitely dont subscribe anymore. The thing that people don't realize about magazine companies is that these magazine writers are NOTHING more than reporters (like a newspaper reporter) who know how to write a little bit. A LOT of the writers don't even own or drive diesel trucks :yikes: WTF!!!??? They are nothing more than information regurgitators and write tech articles based on what they are told by so called professionals. When people call/write in with questions these guys either go to a database of answers and/or they have to reach out to contacts they have for the answer they are going to provide. So aside from all of the advertisements, decently cool pictures, and lame a$$ reviews; there isn't much to a diesel magazine IMO.
 

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Thanks for the heads up guys.. i don't think id follow the "dent the firewall" part.. but i do need studs..

Side question is how much is a reasonable charge to stud a 6.0? provided i have the arp studs.. and thats all i need. I'm 99% sure my HG's are good because truck runs like a top and doesn't have EGR cooler.. or burn coolant.
 

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I just removed the driver side motor mount spacer. Doing that I didn't have to dent the firewall or remove the anything heater wise. I was also able to torque all the bolts with out issue. I just used a jack to raise or lower motor via the driver side.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I just removed the driver side motor mount spacer. Doing that I didn't have to dent the firewall or remove the anything heater wise. I was also able to torque all the bolts with out issue. I just used a jack to raise or lower motor via the driver side.
Hell of alot better than the magazines advice.
 

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Hey Mad, did I read somewhere that you did a 1 for 1 swap with your studs? How has that held up? Would you do it again? How much HP are you pushing on that truck?
Yes, I did do the one for one and haven't had any problems with it, hit over 1800 a couple of times, nailed 35psi for long time, and even water/meth injected, All is good.
 

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Tagged for future reference.. :thumbup:

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Thanks for the heads up guys.. i don't think id follow the "dent the firewall" part.. but i do need studs..

Side question is how much is a reasonable charge to stud a 6.0? provided i have the arp studs.. and thats all i need. I'm 99% sure my HG's are good because truck runs like a top and doesn't have EGR cooler.. or burn coolant.
Do yourself a favor and put new HG's in and get heads milled flat. Unless HG's have been done very recently then you can do the one by one method. I would personally never so it that way. The way I see it is better safe than sorry. Besides what's a little more money when you own a 6.0?

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