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That is usually a loose plug on the FICM -- time to check them over
U0105
 

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As posted - U0105 is losing communication w/ the FICM.
 

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Get torque pro. Can use.on ur phone. I use it on a tablet and have it mounted on my windshield. So I can see my pids everytime I drive it. I would first check ur wiring. Need to check ur icp sensor and harness. Just had to replace my pigtail on mine it was so shaffed up. If everything looks plugged in and ok. Check ur fuel pressure. Really need icp and ipr readings. Could have a bad ficm to. Get a good scanner or get torque pro. Its 5 dollars and u can use it on mamy devices as you want
 

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Discussion Starter #45
Bismic, Hydro

I just checked plugs at the PCM, also unplugged them there and it all looks good shape and the run up to what I could chase down was solid, no ware marks.

So tomorrow I'll start getting to the FICM plug ends. I believe I'm gonna have to take this FICM off right? To check out the plug ends of the Bus?

From videos I've watched looks like it's all feel with the ficm in place so again to do a visual the ficm should be removed for this correct?

I never replaced a FICM yet is why I'm asking a stupid question
 

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U0105. U could have a bad ficm or the harness is bad. Check the 3 connections. If there tight. I'd take them out and check them make sure nothong looks burned.or dirty on the connectors or the ficm side. Can u read live data on that scanner ur using? U need to ignition with key off and check ficm voltage. Then start it and see what voltage is there. Anything under 45 is no good. 48 to 50 is were u need to be at.
 

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U0105. U could have a bad ficm or the harness is bad. Check the 3 connections. If there tight. I'd take them out and check them make sure nothong looks burned.or dirty on the connectors or the ficm side. Can u read live data on that scanner ur using? U need to ignition with key off and check ficm voltage. Then start it and see what voltage is there. Anything under 45 is no good. 48 to 50 is were u need to be at.
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@twood71, my recommendation, since you're pulling the FICM anyway is to get a ~5" length of 5/8" or 3/4" heater hose and split it lengthwise and place it under the FICM connections when you reinstall. That will keep a little pressure on the connections. Obviously, make sure you have them seated good first.
 

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Discussion Starter #49
Bismic, Hydro

I just checked plugs at the PCM, also unplugged them there and it all looks good shape and the run up to what I could chase down was solid, no ware marks.

So tomorrow I'll start getting to the FICM plug ends. I believe I'm gonna have to take this FICM off right? To check out the plug ends of the Bus?

From videos I've watched looks like it's all feel with the ficm in place so again to do a visual the ficm should be removed for this correct?

I never replaced a FICM yet is why I'm asking a stupid question
So, it fired up this morning and was able to cram it back in the garage!!

So got the FICM out. Plugs look good/new and no chafing any where, the plugs were hooked in good. No bent prong and no corrosion any where. Harness looks good no chafing.

I plugged the FICM back in and used my volt meter and with key on and cold I got 49 volts, next I cranked on it, it was a no start and the voltage stayed between 48-49?

I don't know, maybe they still can show good voltage but the FICM is still bad?

Can't ignore the code it gave, I was almost right there on purchasing a new FICM but admit the volt test confuses me.

Again no expert here.
 

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It can be bad and show good voltage. It is a computer - it has a power board and a logic board.

I would send it to FICMrepair.com to have it checked out.

They won't sell you a new one if that one is good.
 

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Discussion Starter #51
It can be bad and show good voltage. It is a computer - it has a power board and a logic board.

I would send it to FICMrepair.com to have it checked out.

They won't sell you a new one if that one is good.
Cool, helps to know.

Im gonna head down that road, Welp next time I post hopefully its about that it's running good,
 

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Discussion Starter #52 (Edited)
FICM repair has a part that reads "batteries must be load tested and Alternators tested" or they will not cover warranty

I'm kinda WTF at this moment?

Voltage has been showing good so I'm not sure about how much more going in to test this stuff?

They say put your alternator in the oven and heat it up and test it because thats when it will fail? It was like 22 degrees when this issue started.

also there is a relay they recommend me purchasing because they go out?

Hope ya understand, was ready to get this going and now see all this other stuff from them, talk about aggravated?

Opinions?
 

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Well, you aren't concerned about a warranty at this point.

Also, load testing batteries is done for free at auto parts stores. Same with alternators.

I agree that the relay is a good "spare" to have but IMO that is an optional thing at this point.

Your call.
 

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Discussion Starter #54
4 weeks later and all the parts collected and finally a descent day today.

New FICM from ficmrepair(don't know if I'd do that again) and new FICM relay, new upgraded 180amp,14volt alternator and batteries test good. She ran good.

Idled it for an hour then took it down the road about 30 minutes, PID readings were normal, no codes so hopefully this is done😁

It was not fun I have to say, it sucked, it sucked physically working on it, the weather sucked as well, time sucked waiting for good days to work on it. Mentally it sucked not quit understanding what those PID numbers were saying and what the codes were saying.

Satisfaction on it running and not deing was good but would not want to go thru that again.

I really appreciate what ya guys did, special shout out to bismic replying back to me on this crap and I appreciate learning that a 110amp alternator sucks on the 6.0's and also learning that something made the FICM go bad versus internet rumor that Ford FICM's just quit.

Hopefully I don't have to ask anything close to this issue again, Halauea!
 

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Glad you got it fixed -- I work out in the "big shed" at home, so I know how hard it is to play against the weather

30 miles east of Evansville? -- you are almost my neighbor, I'm about 90 miles east
 

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Glad you got it runnin' good!

IMO you not only fixed the issue, but you improved the reliability by doing the things you did!
 

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Discussion Starter #57
Glad you got it fixed -- I work out in the "big shed" at home, so I know how hard it is to play against the weather

30 miles east of Evansville? -- you are almost my neighbor, I'm about 90 miles east
The cold snaps screw with me anymore, I have learned the hard way it stubborn way I get chest cold easily, my son screwed with me and said you need the old man scarf, dam it works lol.

Where you pushing out to, Santa Cluas or Gentryville?

I'm before Tennyson next to Degonia. The path of that deadly tornado back in 06.
 

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Discussion Starter #58 (Edited)
Glad you got it runnin' good!

IMO you not only fixed the issue, but you improved the reliability by doing the things you did!
Appreciate it again, hey the alternator guy learned some things as well, it was a educational event for both me and him lol.

His first question was, "what's a FICM?"
 
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