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Discussion Starter #1
I sat and ate lunch with truck idling for about 50 minutes. When I headed back down the road, it stalled then came back, did it again one more time so as I pulled into the next parking lot it just shut off like turning the key off.

So, it fired back up and sounded normal, drove it about 30 feet and shut down again.

This time it just cranked over and never fired up. Sat about 2 minutes and it started right up. So sat and.let it idle about 3 minutes and it did fine, so took off got about a 100yards down the road and again like turning the key off.

It did this 2 more times.

Well I've got a new phone so don't have my torque app on it yet, so couldn't read anything.

No dash light warnings came on, only the normal dummy light.

Called in a tow, started it up and drove it up on the flat bed.

So I read I need a code reader, anyone know what's a reasonable price code reader?

Next I read, check fuel filters, then certain codes it could be a IPR valve and you can rebuild these I read.

Then I read if no code I need to check numbers because it could be a ICP, are these rebuildable?

Then all hell breaks lose thru google that injectors can be the problem.

I'm taking a breath here.

So I'm hoping there is a cheap cost code reader out there, if ya know one let me know if ya don't mind.

And I'll see if any codes pop up.

Right now it will fire right up but its parked for now.

2006 f350 2wd DRW, egr deleted and a Driven Diesel regulated return kit. Using scrt bully dog on standard map.
 

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Use ForScan Lite downloaded to a smartphone (or better yet, the full version on a laptop).

For the phone version, you will need an ELM327 OBDII adapter - WiFi for iOS and BlueTooth for Android. I like the BAFX brand of adapter.

Pulling codes is the best place to start and you need a thorough code reader. ForScan is good at reading codes.

First of all, regarding your problems, it sounds like an electrical issue.

Secondly, the most common causes are in or around the IPR (or its wiring) or the FICM and its wiring.

Check the FICM plugs to make sure they are seated in solidly. Look for wire harness chaffing in the harness.

Then disconnect the IPR and look for wire chaffing in its wiring. Look for damage to the connector.

Also, is the plastic wiring shield that runs across the width of the engine compartment drooping down and touching the top of the turbo?

If you can't see anything wrong, then the wiggle test is always a good one. With everything connected, wiggle the FICM harness and the engine harness around and see if you can get it to repeat the dying.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Appreciate it.

So far normal checks.

I forgot to mention when this all happened that at idle it never died until I throttled it.

I know I need to order a plug adapter for the forscan usage. I have the basic wifi one I used for torque app on my android.

So I have it idling out there for now, so far I can't get it to repeat itself.

But as I was looking it over again I did have a question on the heat being used with defrost on. I know the air conditioning when turned on takes away horsepower but the heat? I don't recall heat dragging down the rpms that much. So I took a video of this in operation with me holding on to throttle at 1800rpms or so. Is this to much pull from the heat being on?

https://youtu.be/Wrr_jZVNTMU
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Ha, was able to get it to do it.

After idle sitting for 40 minutes I took if down the street. Was fine for a few minutes and then it loss power then came back and then shut down.

The video is after starting it back up and heading back

https://youtu.be/Z8-hG_N_dXY
 

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Might be good to know that your fuel pressure is good also. I've had a fuel pump that just flat out died going down the road and another that had intermittent problems before dying.

k
 

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You have the Torque app - check for codes with it ....
 

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The same adapter you used for Torque should work with Forscan
 

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From what I have read, some people have not been able to get ForScan to work on an Android w/ the WiFi adapter.

I have never tried it so I can't comment.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I'm loading my pids on Torque pro, new phone.

I'll see if it puts up a code on TP. I honestly forgot that TP had a code area, been using live monitoring so long.

I'll see if it hits on a code tomorrow. In the Mean time, I've got to order me a laptop plug for forscan laptop app
 

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I have used both wifi and Bluetooth on both my laptop and android -- all depends on your savvy with the connections
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Got my pids on.

Went out and repeated yesterday and it has gotten worse, I could not throttle it without it dieng.

Have pics

First of key on and engine not cranked on.

Next pic is engine on at idle

Then next is pic of after it dies and won't start, just cranks.

Last pic is codes the TP sees.
 

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The TP message says 6 faults. I only see three. Can you post the others?

I would like to see Injector Pulse Width (or Fuel Pulse Width) when cranking (when it won't start). Also, the cranking rpms.
 

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Looking at the U0105 code definition, that may be a big clue. It is for loss of communication w/ the FICM (which is one of the common causes for sudden dying as I posted earlier).
 

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Discussion Starter #14
The fault code is what it is, it messaged me saying some codes TP and WiFi is not capable of reporting. The 6 faults i believe is the count of the codes being repeated twice each which come up to 6.

I understand the ICP if reporting at 15% or below at ignition on is a sign of a leak?

Also on no start crank the HPOP would show error by going above 500psi, again this what I've read.

I know I may have gotten wrong info or just misunderstood what I read.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
On the FICM yea I pulled up code and talks about the CAN Bus, I would love to have a loose bus plugged in but nothing appears wrong even thru a wiggle test. I know ita just a cover code, not a detail code(if I'm saying that right) but maybe it's the FICM itself.

More I'm digging in the more my confidence I'm losing on figuring this out.
 

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The fault code is what it is, it messaged me saying some codes TP and WiFi is not capable of reporting. The 6 faults i believe is the count of the codes being repeated twice each which come up to 6.

I understand the ICP if reporting at 15% or below at ignition on is a sign of a leak?

Also on no start crank the HPOP would show error by going above 500psi, again this what I've read.

I know I may have gotten wrong info or just misunderstood what I read.
A minimum IPR of 14.5% is fine at KOEO. There is no way to identify a leak when the HPOP is not pumping ..... unless you hook up shop air and listen for air leaking! You need rpms to pump since the HPOP works off of the cam shaft.

On a crank, no-start, the ICP (pressure) should pretty much always be over 500 psig. 500 psig is the minimum required to start. You can go well over that when cranking with a healthy HPOP system.

As stated, the issues are pointing to the FICM or its wiring, FWIW ........
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Appreciate it again, I know FICM has a history on these trucks but I really never considered it from watching good readings all summer. I got this new 9s in October and got lazy on setting up TP again.

I was considering fuel or fuel delivery especially that this problem conveniently showed up the next day after a complete fuel fill up.

I have a ford elm327 on the way, should be tuesday.

Taking my time with it, so using this once I get it to see what forscan reads as well
 

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The readings in your pics look 'normal' to me -- but just having those codes can cause a no start
when you clear the codes, what are the fresh ones?

TP will log a reading, so I suggest logging the ficm sync -- see if you can get a fail
possible voltage as well, yours is a bit low for a running system
@bismic, there are 6 codes listed, check the pics again -- double listed, but on 6 lines

and what is the fuel pressure? do we know if the fuel pump is running continuously ?
 

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Data logging the FICM sync is a great idea. That said, it may result in you getting stranded.

Have you inspected the wiring yet - especially between the FICM and PCM?

If the wiring harness looks fine, it may save you some headaches just to send the FICM in and get tested. FICMrepair.com will do a good job and they are honest.
 

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The rearmost plug on the FICM is the data communications -- for sure it is fully plugged in?

Does the injectors always do the pre-start click test? -- even when it wont start?
 
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