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Discussion Starter #1
I strongly suspect there is diesel in my engine oil. Checked it last night and the level was a bit high, so I smelled it and detect what I believe is diesel. I requested an oil test kit from Blackstone last night so it will be a bit before I know for certain At this point I'm moving forward as if it is diesel (I know it is not coolant). Oil/filter has ~2K miles. Archoil 9100 in the oil at change, and Archoil 6200 in the fuel for the past ~500 miles or so.

Bought the truck a couple of months back with ~86K miles, now has ~88.5K. I changed all fluids and filters shortly after purchase (all OEM). Once in awhile it will run a bit rough in the mornings and puff a little white smoke (smells like diesel exhaust, not coolant. I've pulled and cleaned the EGR valve and found no coolant residue). This is less frequent as I believe the Archoil is doing it's job.

When I bought the truck I believed it ran pretty strong, but it's been running better over the last 1,500 miles or so. However, when towing I still don't have the power I believe I should. I'm still learning the 6.0 but am not a mechanical newbie. So, here are my questions:

Common causes of fuel in the oil are injector o-rings, injector issues, cracked injector cup(s) and/or a cracked head. Correct?

How do I troubleshoot this? I have a ScanGauge II and recently purchased AutoEnginuity Ford Bundle used (PC version 12.0), though I haven't used it yet.

If I need to replace an injector (or 8) is OEM still the way to go? Ford is $203 for a reman, Injector Direct is $129. Get the o-ring kits from Ford?

Can the injector cups be inspected? If so, how?

Anything else you guys can think of? Obviously I'm just laying the groundwork at this point, but i'm pretty sure the oil analysis is going to show diesel. I greatly appreciate the info I've found on this forum (and the personalities!), so thanks in advance for any input/advice.:grin:
 

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Injector seals from ANFWBL were around $4 or so each, oreillys sells them for ~$10 and it comes with enough for two sticks. If you need injectors, I've used injectors direct a few times and have had zero issues at all. They come with all new seals
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks, gents! If I'm in there to reseal the injectors, I'd like to know in advance if there are other issues with any of the injectors so I can have them on hand. Which tests should I perform beforehand? Would the test results be flawed if the seals are bad? If an injector(s) is at the heart of my low towing power I'd like to tackle that while in there.
 
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I hate to jinx myself but for me you are in uncharted waters :D
I havent had to mess with my injectors yet and hope not to for a while :nod:
I need my mead business up and running before anything else happens to my truck :doh:
 
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Discussion Starter #6
OK, got my AE up and running. I did a couple of starts to run some of the tests and everything checked out fine. I'm a total NOOB to AE and obviously have a lot to learn about it, and what to watch for on the 6.0.

Did a Power Balance and all cylinders were very even, from idle up to 2K RPM. This was after the truck had run a couple of minutes, but it's 95 degrees outside and the truck fired up with a very smooth idle. Again, this has been pretty normal. Could be the warmer weather, the Archoil, or both.

Did the injector buzz test after watching one of Ron's videos, and all clicked as they should.

I don't yet know how to do a contribution test.

Checked the oil again and I'm still sure I smell diesel in it. I'm confident enough that I'll probably change it out this weekend to be on the safe side. I've been reading as much as I can about this, but would still love more input/advice.
 

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Easy way to "test" for fuel dilution is to take the dipstick and touch it to a paper towel. Then watch. The diesel fuel if any will be sucked out of the oil on the towel quickly and create a Starburst effect of diffrent fluids.

Other then that it's the oil level monitor. Do an oil change and make sure to set the level in the safe zone. Note where it is and how you checked it. Then drive 1k miles and recheck the same way at the same engine temp. If the level is higher then yes there is diesel in the oil. The question is how fast is it getting in. It is normal to have some diesel in the oil from normal operation but not enough to increase the level.

6.0s really don't have intrusion or "making oil" issues. Most of the time it's an injector oring that failed and is pumping fuel into the crankcase. Or an injector body oring that has failed and is pumping oil into the crankcase. Somtimes you will not be able to see this on a computer unless contribution is affected. Easiest way would be to pull the valve covers and visually watch each injector with the fuel pump running. See if any leak.

A leak like described above will make oil quickly. Like 100 miles and the level increases fast. Could also have an injector leaking down overnight. That would and should be seen on a contribution test. If all your going off of is smell and slight increase if at all (temp of oil plays a huge roll in level) I would just wait for the Blackstone test to come back.

I like lamp...
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks, Toren, I appreciate your input. I had read about the oil spot on a paper towel test, and after doing it 3 times, they all just look like oil spots to me. Maybe I'm making something out of nothing, but would rather be safe than sorry. I even went so far as to compare the oils smell from the truck to that of my Kubota tractor, and there is a definite difference.
 

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as mentioned, smell alone is far from definitive. if you've been blowing white/light blue haze some morings, and it isn't coolant, that's raw fuel. so it may be expected to have some fuel tinge in the oil.
another test you can try is draining the oil right dry overnight. next day, with plug still removed, place a clean drain pan under it. run the pump for a few hours and see if you get any drips in the pan. not sure if ae has output state control capability, but if not, you can just run jumper wires directly to the pump. throw a charger on it while running the test. as mentioned, i wouldn't start tearing into anything just yet. not until you've confirmed indefinitely that there is a problem. personally, i don't trust those oil analisys'. have gotten some pretty contradicting results back from finning on several occasions
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
Thought I'd give a quick update. I went ahead and changed the oil today just to be on the safe side. I drained out about 13 to 13.5 qts, so there wasn't exactly extra. It also gave me a chance to install the Fumoto oil drain valve. That is going to be very nice next time around.

Maybe I'm just smelling the Archoil mixed with the oil? I haven't had any experience with it before this, so it's a possibility. This probably would have occurred to me earlier if i haven't been working my tail of at work and building a fence at home. I'm still going to get it tested, but this may be Another Episode of the Paranoid 6.0 Owner

I'll keep you all posted.
 
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When I had got my truck, I noticed the oil filling up, it would go several quarts over full. I then had a cracked head that caused diesel to push into the coolant.

When I pulled the injector that had the cracked head (#5), the lower o-ring was hard, flat, and the lower injector body was discolored. I also have a rough run and smoking when cold. I believe that was causing the diesel to leak down into the cylinder.




I would pull and inspect all of your injector o-rings. Replace the ones that are not soft. Do them all if you can spend the money.
 

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Upper o-ring on the injector seals fuel from the crankcase
sometimes you can pull the valve cover and see where the fuel is puddled
turn the key on so the fuel pump can pressurize the rail
otherwise you can fab a fitting to use air pressure in the fuel rail with the fitting at the front of the head
 
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