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Discussion Starter #1
So here is the story,

First, 2005 CC SB 6.0 105K miles.

Second, Been driving around all day, no problems, running like a champ, just filled up at a station I usually trust and have filled up there MANY times in the past. Was at about 1/4 tank and filled to full.

Was driving home, about 5 miles total. Got to about a half mile from the house and was turning into the neighborhood. Stopped to let traffic by and it died. Stalled right out and would not restart. Pushed it all the way to my house and still wouldn't start.

It has been a little ruff to start in the mornings but runs like a champ when its warm. I have a very hard time believing the service station (shell) screwed up and put gas on the diesel pump (but I have been wrong before).

Ideas? Thoughts?
 

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Yikes...find out FOR SURE that they didn't fill 'er with gas insted of diesel. Seems a little coincidental!
 
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I would check your icp pressure. when a pump or ipr let go it will shut off like someone turned the key off and not restart. im betting you have a high pressure oil system issue. when it died, did it just shut off like you turned the key off, or did it chug chug then die? you need to pull some codes and check for icp pressure and take a fuel sample from the secondary fuel filter housing to make sure its 100% diesel you have in there.
 

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Did you get plumes of white smoke along with a strong exhaust odor before it stalled? I agree with formasterdieseltech. You need to take a fuel sample. A quick and simple test you can try is pouring a small portion of the sample on the pavement a SAFE DISTANCE AWAY from flammable objects, and attempt to ignite it with a lighter. Gasoline will ignite obviously, as it will eat away at a styrofoam cup if poured into it. Do you have the fillup receipt?
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
So I called the manager of the station and they said "Tank was filled 8 days ago with diesel, it is 64% full and we have had no complaints." So either they are just spewing crap at me, or its just one hell of a coincidence. I have AE so I will pull the codes and DTCs tomorrow. I will also do the redneck fuel test as suggested ;).

Was a very sudden shutoff, like someone had turned off the key, no bucking, no smoke, just OFF.

Can I get ICP pressure from AE, or some other way?

I did not get the receipt from the fillup. But I have the charge on my credit card if necessary.
 

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If you were pumping gas into your truck. You should have smelled the strong ordor of gasoline instead of diesel.

I would be finding out if you are getting fuel to the engine. Just because you filled up the truck does not mean you have something else wrong with your truck.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Ok, AE scan done. DTCs of note: P0500 and P0263.

Redneck fuel test done, no sign of easy ignition from gas in the fuel. Pulled from both the tank and the secondary fuel filter on top of the engine.
 

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Redneck fuel test done, no sign of easy ignition from gas in the fuel. Pulled from both the tank and the secondary fuel filter on top of the engine.
Okay, so we've "verified" fuel quality. That's a start.



Ok, AE scan done. DTCs of note: P0500 and P0263.
P0500 = Vehicle Speed Sensor 'A'

P0263 = Cylinder #1 Contribution/Balance

Somehow, I doubt either of these two DTCs are the cause of your truck failing to start. Since you mention you have access to an AE scanner, access the following data, and post your results:

B+ (volts)

FICM_L (volts)

FICM_M (volts)

FICM_V (volts)

FICM SYNC (yes or no)

ICP Desired (psi)

ICP (volts)

ICP (psi)

IPR Duty Cycle (%)

RPM (RPM)

SYNC (yes or no)

If you haven't already, run an Injector Buzz test. Do your hear a strong loud clicking from all eight injectors? Does it flag any DTCs when you run this test? Post up results for all of the above readings at key-on/engine-off AND while cranking the engine over in an attempt to start the engine.
 

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Ah yes, I love m-chan68's 6.0 start-up checklist! I've added the link to my signature, too... from way back when you were helping to diagnose the guy's truck in Austria that nobody knew how to work on. Good stuff!
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Buzz test sounds ok, fairly even from all the injectors.

Here is the data dump from AE
KOEO__Crank
Battery Voltage: 11__ ~9.63
CMP and CKP Are In Sync: 0 (off)__1 (on)
FICM Sync: 0 (off)__1 (on)
FICM Logic Power: 11__10
FICM Main Power: 48.5__48.5
FICM Vehicle Power: 10.5__10
IPC Desired: 0__1601
ICP: 0__61.18 (max)
ICP Volts: 0.25__0.31 (max)
ICPR: 14.84__84.77
RPM: 0__133 (max)

Fuel Pump: 99.98__99.98

The RPMs are most likely low due to all the cranking I have been doing and the batteries are a little low.

I have a data dump xls from AE if anyone would like to see it. Just PM your email and I'll send it along.

From reading around, looks like the HPOP is the issue. ICPR is WAY up and ICP is way low. But I'll hold out for the professional assessment.
 

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Buzz test sounds ok, fairly even from all the injectors.

Here is the data dump from AE
KOEO__Crank
Battery Voltage: 11__ ~9.63
CMP and CKP Are In Sync: 0 (off)__1 (on)
FICM Sync: 0 (off)__1 (on)
FICM Logic Power: 11__10
FICM Main Power: 48.5__48.5
FICM Vehicle Power: 10.5__10
IPC Desired: 0__1601
ICP: 0__61.18 (max)
ICP Volts: 0.25__0.31 (max)
ICPR: 14.84__84.77
RPM: 0__133 (max)

Fuel Pump: 99.98__99.98

The RPMs are most likely low due to all the cranking I have been doing and the batteries are a little low.

I have a data dump xls from AE if anyone would like to see it. Just PM your email and I'll send it along.

From reading around, looks like the HPOP is the issue. ICPR is WAY up and ICP is way low. But I'll hold out for the professional assessment.
The readings highlighted in bold red, are the cause of your truck not starting. The next step is to remove the oil filter cap and filter, and have an assistant crank the engine over while you hold the drainback valve on the oil filter standpipe shut with your finger. Does oil fill up the reservoir rapidly? If it does, your low pressure oil supply system is functioning properly. And if so, your next step is to remove the ICP sensor from the valve cover and install a fitting into its place and air pressure test the system by connecting a shop air line supply to it. You should hear air leaking once connected. Take active command of IPR duty cycle from the 14.84% and ramp it up to 97.66%. The air leak should diminish as the valve closes. The leak that you hear with the valve closed, is the source of your high pressure oil system leak. 61.18psi is far cry from the minimum 500psi needed, so if it is a leak, it shouldn't be very difficult to pinpoint. Failing that, the only thing left is the HPOP itself.
 

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My boss had the same issue, it was oil pressure related where a plastic coupler kept kept cracking, not allowing oil pressure to rise,with the high oil pressure, once thre truck started it ran fine once he shut it off it wouldnt restart and had it replace quite a few time.....end result......new motor installed by ford under warrenty.
 

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If there is a leak when the duty cycle is all the way up, the leak is coming from one of your high pressure oil supply pipes (or fittings) going from the pump to the injectors.
 

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If I do the test you suggest and the leak is still there when the duty cycle is all the way up, what does that mean? Whats broken?
The air leak you hear with IPR commanded to 100% (or as close to as possible) will be where the source of your high pressure oil system leak is, the leak that is causing it not to be able to build sufficient ICP to start. You check this by using a stethoscope, probing the opening in the oil filler to check for leaks on the passenger side bank of cylinders. You probe the air inlet opening where the crankcase vent tube enters, to check for air leaks on the driver side bank of cylinders. If the air leak appears loudest at the rear of the engine, it will be your STC fitting (if you have an '05 and up model year), or the D-ring on the high pressure oil pump discharge tube, or even the tube itself if it's a 2003 or 2004 engine. If no air leak is heard, then that leaves the HPOP itself as the cause, provided low side oil pressure system is functioning properly to supply the high pressure oil system as I indicated in my earlier reply.
 

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I had the same question a month ago. I took it to a hydraulic shop and was told it is not a standard fitting of any type; not air, gas, hydraulic, plumbing, etc.
Your choices seem to be this: Buy the adapter ($65!), take apart an old bad ICP and braze something on it, or buy the kit for the STC fitting replacement ($40) which has a plug in it with the same threads that you can drill out and braze a fitting on. Good luck.
 
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