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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So, I just pulled my transmission thinking I had bearing issues, but there are no signs of bearing problems that I can see.

The history is, I've had the truck twelve years now, always took good care of it (wait, everybody says that...). I've upgraded the HPOP and injectors, chipped it, done a full exhaust upgrade (including bellowed up-pipes), gone through most wear items (a few failures, but more preventive maintenance). I'm at 235,000 miles, give or take, mostly highway. About six years ago, I decided to upgrade the clutch and go thorough the transmission. It came with a DMFW setup that was easy to slip with the upgrades, although nothing else particularly wrong with it. The transmission tended to grind on downshifts sometimes (particularly 5-4 and 3-2, as I recall), but that was probably partly due to a worn pivot bushing; I know I replaced it once, but it took a few years before I got wise and did the heim joint mod.

Anyway, I wonder if I should have ever gone into the transmission in the first place, since there was nothing terribly wrong with it. The syncros probably had some wear; the reverse collar and gear showed the most wear, and it's sometimes finicky to get into reverse. What was definitely a mistake was a Valair stage one clutch. It was heavy as can be, would chatter instantly unless you engaged it just right, and then the included throwout bearing blew up a couple years ago. I replaced it with a Valeo setup that's far smoother and lighter, and actually holds pretty well.

That brings me up to the reason I torn into it again. Recently it started getting noisy - seemed to be in all gears, definitely worse in lower gears and the more you revved it, but I could hear it even going down the highway in fifth. It was a grinding sort of noise: a lot like gear rollover noise. It wasn't constant relative to RPM or throttle, it'd kind of come and go depending on how high it was revving and how hard you were pushing. The only big issue in terms of shifting is that forth gear is hard to engage without grinding - especially down-shifting. I checked the fluids and drained the transmission. I found some flecks of metal, and the fluid looks brown and pretty opaque. It also has a slight metalic sparkle to it in the light. No metal shavings or bigger pieces though. I started off with regular ATF after the earlier transmission work, then changed that out to Red Line MTL after a few thousand miles - I figured it'd perform better, and that it'd be a good idea to use the initial fill to flush out anything lingering from having it open. It had plenty of fluid; I'd over-serviced it to lesson the gear rollover noise, and it started pouring out the fill when opened it, so it never ran low. The fluid in the transfer case looked brand new. The oil in the differential might have been a shade darker than new oil, but I'd be embarrassed to throw it out if I were changing it (I've changed it a couple times over the years - Mobil synthetic).

The one thing definitely wrong is a leaking output shaft seal. I think that ended up either a little crooked or driven in too deep. There was a half cup or so of oil between the transmission and transfer case. I already have a new bearing set, from Midwest Trans (where I got the kit the first time too). One thing I noticed is that all the bearings are Koyo, about as good as you can get, except the input shaft bearing. It had no marking other than the bearing number and "China." I think the first kit I got was the same way; I pulled the pocket bearing (easy) and input shaft bearing (less easy) already, and the input bearing that was in it also appears to have been generic. So, the two possibilities I see in the transmission are that I got the bearing preload wrong, or one of those bearings is wearing in a way that's not obvious, but causing problems. I did check the preload on both shafts the last time, and my calculation was that the shims that were in it put it in the correct range.

I'm debating whether to touch the countershaft bearings, but I'm going to go ahead and do all the main shaft bearings. I bought a National bearing and race for the input shaft to eliminate that possibility. I wish I could get my hands on a shim kit; my thought now is that if it's near the looser end of tolerance, I'd shim it to the tighter, but that's kind of hard to do if I can't find shims. Hopefully tomorrow I can get the rest of the bearings done and see what I have and what I might need, then call around and see if anyone in Billings might have some, or be able to make one.

Anyway, long story, but I'd appreciate any ideas. I half-wonder if I jumped the gun, but it's definitely making noise where it wasn't before, and it seems to be coming straight from the transmission.
 

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'01 F350 7.3L, 4R100, CC, LB, 4x4
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Could it be in your T-case?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
The transfer case might cause such a noise, although it functions just fine and the fluid looks like new. I'll probably go ahead and drain it so I can check for metal or signs of trouble. Ditto on the rear end; might as well look at everything while it's in the garage. I've done everything I can to check for play on the transfer case input and output, as well as the pinion yoke.

Anyway, I put the new input shaft and pocket bearing in, then checked the preload. I gave up on trying to use my dial indicator on the countershaft. Without the right setup, it's impossible to get an accurate number: all you have to do is tweak it slightly to the right or left or right to get more than the tolerance worth of variation. What I came up with instead was to take a set of feeler gauges and stack assorted sizes on two opposite between two ribs in the case and the bottom gear on the shaft until I'd taken up all the gap, then lifted the shaft and stacked more until they were tight. It's probably not perfect, but I'm certain it's worlds more accurate than what I'd have come up with off the dial.

So, what I'm finding is that based on the shims in it, I'm about .008 of preload on the main shaft and about .006 on the countershaft. I know I checked the free play, and I don't remember fudging the numbers when I had it apart before, but it sure seems too tight. I used anaerobic gasket maker before, and I left the residue on because I figure that should be representative of how much clearance that'll add. It seems shims are hard to find - Midwest Trans didn't have any, and about all I can find is a few on ebay. I'll make a couple calls tomorrow, but I'm not expecting much. That said, I do have a hair-brained idea. A sheet of plain printer paper measures at .004 on my caliper. So, what if I were to cut strips and run them around the perimeter of the flange? I'd cut them narrower than the flange, and use a thin bead of anaerobic sealer on either side, so I'd think I'd get a good seal. The one concern that comes to mind would be if the anaerobic sealer caused the paper to swell, but hopefully if I'm quick about it, it wouldn't have a chance, or would compress back down anyway. If it ended up swelling or too thick, I'd think I'd find play in the shaft(s); would be hard to tell if I ended up still too tight, but it seems I've been running around like that already... I'm not saying it's an ideal solution - more of a "what if I..." If I can find the right shims, I'll definitely do that, but if not, and being this close...
 

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That much pre-load is way too much in my opinion
should make the shafts hard to turn -- and create heat
I would think more like +.001 to -.002 would be more in line

using anaerobic sealer should be OK, but you need to go ahead and tighten parts down soon as you can -- that stuff starts to set as soon as pressure is applied and sets in a few seconds to the point is will no longer flow out of a joint
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Yup, the maximum preload from the ZF manual is .0043. I don't know what effect too much preload would have, other than being hard on the bearings. There was a bit of powdery metal to be found behind races and such, but it's hard to tell what it was, (it looked more bronze than silver in color). I found some notes from back when, and I think I mis-measured the countershaft play, because I had it at .065, vs. .061 obtained by stacking feeler gauges. It looks like I measured main shaft play about the same: .066, which would indicate the same excessive preload. All I can think of is I saw .008 and misplaced a decimal point in my mind, thinking I was just over the lightest preload number (.00079). Two things for sure: bearings don't wear tighter, and aluminum doesn't shrink with time. I guess all I can do for now is get it right and hope for the best!
 

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When building anything that uses shims, I have a habit of shimming individual shafts . Usually just by feel, but I have done this a long time, so have the feel for it. I find that is the most accurate method, tho may take a little more time. Individual, ...you are not affected by rolling resistance from the other shafts . Measuring with feeler gauges can be tricky, the gauges and shims need to be flat and clean. This will affect the measurement and final shim stack thickness. Seen it way too many times, where one of the guys had to go back in a transmission because they got lazy in setting the shims .

Max of .0043 seems like a lot, still the case is aluminum and expands more than the shafts when heated.. I get defensive when I see specs like that (.0043) I mean .0043 is OK, but .0044 is over the line and will cause damage -- the difference in .0003 and .0004 is gnats whiskers -- one has to question why the engineer didn't just say .004 and leave the gnats whisker off. That is dial indicator territory, not feeler gauge.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Sounds like you've done this a lot more than me! I appreciate the advice. Partly for convenience, rather than adding up the individual feeler gauge blades, I used my caliper to measure the stacks. I agree adding up individual blades will probably result in some error. I wouldn't choose that over a dial indicator on the main shaft (although I'd think it could work just as well), it's just that it's pretty hard to get a good reading off the countershaft without the right setup (the manual shows a dial gauge with a rocker of sorts to reach inside - I think it's called a hole attachment). If I end up doing more of this kind of stuff (hopefully never again on this transmission), I'll have to invest in a few nicer "toys."

The spec in metric is .02 to .11mm, but why .11 and not .010 is a good question. I'd also doubt .01mm, or .0004" is going to be a breaking point (that small and you're better off measuring in microns... in a lab). Since they're tapered bearings, I assume they're like wheel bearings where there should be just a slight amount of play. So I assume the case expands 5-10 thousandths more than the shafts at operating temperature, leaving the bearings with just a little play. I do wonder if one end or the other of the tolerance is more ideal, but even if I knew, at my level and with the equipment I have, it'd be like trying to bullseye a target at 100 yards with a snub-nose pistol. One of those cases where the tolerance is the target; at some point you just have to get a round on it and call it a day. Anyway, I actually did measure each shafts' play individually, mostly because it was easier to put them in the case individually.

At the end of the day, I'm just wanting to get another 20-30,000 miles out of this transmission. It could use a couple gears and shift collars replaced, plus the bellhousing broke at one of the corners and I had to have it welded (might not be an issue - not sure when it happened since I only discovered it when I pulled it the first time). So, if I can get a few more years out of it, I'll just keep an eye out for a used one. I might get lucky and find one that needs nothing, but either way, it'd be much nicer to go through and collect the parts and piece it together at my leisure. Or, if I end up with more money than time down the road, I could get a rebuild; right now, the prospect of a like-new box for the cost of a used one plus $500 or so in parts is more appealing than $3000 or so plus shipping... plus, when I finally get it right, I can say I did it myyyyyy way!
 
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