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So I was doing a delete today and just my luck got to the last bolt on the bottom block off plate and was putting it back in. Needless to say it broke off flush. I had soaked it in penetrating oil for days it came out with not to much effort but while putting it back in it snapped. I was using a swivel to get it in and I think it put to much sideways pressure on the bolt. So now I need to get this out. I got the other one in temporarily and started the truck I have a high pitched scream under acceleration now. I hope this is just due to an exhaust leak there. I have seen on the forums to try and weld it but I don't have a welder so I'm going to run it by the local diesel shop and see if they can get it out unless you guys have anything I can try without a welder or doing more damage. I did manage to get the delete pipe, EZ-Lynk with GDP, and the SOTF switch installed which all seem to work well. BTW I used H&S block-off plates I think I should have used the no limit ones now so I could have removed the other pipe and looks like it comes with new screws. I have ordered a set that I may install anyway. I also have an S&B intake on order. Hopefully I can get this all up and running soon.
 

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Center puch the bolt, dead center several times. Then start with a really small drill bit and work your way up until you can get an easy out in there.

Go real easy on it when you first start the drill, use some lube for cutting fluid. You need Cobalt drill bits too.

If the easy out feels like a spring when you have a wrench on it, STOP. Get the bolt hot and shock with a spritz of water and try again.

It is nerve racking, but it's what it is. Or if you don't have any bits, drill, punch, easy out, then it would be cheaper to take it in.
 

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If you go the Easy Out route be careful...As durapig said if it starts to spring, stop right there...if you break the easy out you are creating more problems since its hardened steel.

Good luck.
 

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Thanks for the suggestions. I don't have an easy out but did think about trying that and then worried I would break that off too lol. I also thought about drilling it out and wondered if I just drilled it straight through if it is possible to put a nut and bolt through it? I am mechanically inclined and do most of my own work. However I have never had the pleasure of breaking a bolt off so I'm not super confident in my ability to get it out. I guess I am going to drop it off at the shop and feel like a dumb *** for doing it.
 

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Thanks for the suggestions. I don't have an easy out but did think about trying that and then worried I would break that off too lol. I also thought about drilling it out and wondered if I just drilled it straight through if it is possible to put a nut and bolt through it? I am mechanically inclined and do most of my own work. However I have never had the pleasure of breaking a bolt off so I'm not super confident in my ability to get it out. I guess I am going to drop it off at the shop and feel like a dumb *** for doing it.
You can expect an hour or more of butt puckering fun with the easy out. BUT you would gain the confidence and have another punch on your man card.

If you do get an easy out this is not something to cheap out on. You break that off in your hole, it's gonna take a drill bit from NASA to get that mother out. You'll be scared to touch another wrench for a month.

If you end up drilling the whole thing then a helicoil would be the thing to do. It is important to start small and step up in drill size.

Good luck, it's not really that bad but it could be if you get in a hurry.
 

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On exhaust you definitely want to use anti-seize on all the bolts it'll make removal much easier in the future. If anti-sieze had been used on re-installation it would have made the broken removal a lot easier and might not have broken, so you probably want to use it when you reinstall the new bolts. On the other bolt that's already tight remove and put anti-seize on it. You don't want to drive around with an exhaust leak right there because you could burn a valve. It sucks cold air in and next thing you know that cold air cuts the valve. I would try not to drive it and defiantly do not hot rod it.

I've removed my block off plate probably 4 times, when I tighten I use a 1/4 inch drive ratchet and then a 3/8 ratchet to put an extra 1/8 turn. Or do it the correct way and torque it to spec. Those bolts are super easy to over tighten and break. I'm not sure why your using a swivel unless you still have your EGR cooler on if so you need to remove it. Go to Home Depot or O'Reillys and get a reverse tap. It will back the bolt out it does the opposite of a tap. Use new bolts, anti-seize and and an EGT gauge is an absolute must. I have a 2016 my def, DPF, and EGR fell off my truck, craziest thing.

So you still have the EGR cooler still on?
 

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Yes the EGR cooler is still on. I am only installing the block off plates. I did have anti-seize on the bolts as I was putting them back in. I was reusing the old bolts which is my fault and should have known better and was using the swivel due to the plastic upper intake. I am sure the bolt will back right out as it was going back in and has anti-seize on it I just don't have the tools here to do it. I am taking it to the shop around the corner from my house tomorrow anyway for another issue so while it is there I am just going to have them take it out. I have since ordered an extractor kit so I have it. I was at fault I knew better so I guess I will chalk this up to a learning experience and pay the price. I am still glad I did most of the work myself and it went relatively easy until I made the mistake. Thanks for all the suggestions they have helped a great deal.
 

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all the advice on here is pretty solid. I recommend you don't try and ez out. Just keep slowly drilling it out and using a small punch tap out the piece and vacuum or shop air to remove. Don't worry you didn't make a mistake, I would say 1 in 4 of those bolts break off like yours did. I happened to me. 3 drill bits later I managed to knock was was left of the old bolt and re tap the threads. That plate doesn't need another of torque so use new bolts and I would remove the EGR cooler at this point to give you more access. It's not must more work.
 

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It broke going in not coming out. Besides I think he took it in.

The wrong was not using new bolts.

The 2 in the manifold break all the time. If it breaks coming out then an easy out would probably break off too. That's why you stop if it feels springy at all.

Ford master tech told me that he heats the manifold with a brazing tip, if they don't come out then it's easy out, if that breaks then it gets a new manifold. When new goes in its dripping with never-seize. Never reuse the bolts. Just tight with a 1/4" ratchet or box wrench.
 

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I did get it drilled out and everything is up and running. Yes my mistake was using the old bolts. Thanks for all your replies.
 

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Glaad to hear you got it all taken care of. I threw on an Icon front 2.5" lift today with a BD diesel track bar and man am I happy its done.
 

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You break that off in your hole, it's gonna take a drill bit from NASA to get that mother out. QUOTE]


SERIOUSLY... No one wanted to touch that one!!!??? I'll be the 5 year old LOL...:haha:
 

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You break that off in your hole, it's gonna take a drill bit from NASA to get that mother out. QUOTE]


SERIOUSLY... No one wanted to touch that one!!!??? I'll be the 5 year old LOL...:haha:
I SO appreciate another 5 yo besides me on this forum! :rofl: Thanks for the laugh out loud belly laugh.
 

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What size are these bolts? I just had a PO42E code come up and if I cant figure out what the problem is looks like I may have to make this a off road race truck so I want to be ready for anything that may have when I start taking it apart
 

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I had them break off and I’m pretty sure the hole is a 6mm x 1.00 pitch. I ended up removing the upper and lower intake and just drilled and tapped with 1/4 x 20 and bought new bolts.


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