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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys,

I just got done changing out the upper/lower radiator hoses. Was going to pull out the thermostats.... But cannot get the egr brace off for the life of me!!!

Anyway. I got it all put back together, slip the degas bottle back in, then notice a hose press-fit clamp on the back but cannot see anything that goes there. I also don't remember pulling anything off of it either. This is still the original bottle.

What does the back of your original bottle look like? I want to start the coolant flush process, but want to first be sure I didn't miss anything else putting it back together.

THANKS,

MT
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Anyone have a chance to glance at there bottle and see what is connected to the clamp thing? It is just a press-in type, so I'm thinking it's not a hose....maybe a wire bundle?
 

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It holds the vacuum line that connects under the bottle if I remember right, I will go peek at lunch for you but 90% sure that is my answer.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
It holds the vacuum line that connects under the bottle if I remember right, I will go peek at lunch for you but 90% sure that is my answer.
Ok, that makes sense...I think that pump is just behind the bottle by the fuse box. And the clamp would be for just holding something from bouncing around. I'll see if I can find the missing part when I do the next flush and drain my fuel-water separator tonight.

I still have the fender wall out while I do the coolant flush (much easier to drain the block through the fender with the lift on there). I'm down to about 2 minutes to pull the block plug, radiator pet****, and separate the lower radiator hoses. :crazy:
 

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How did you get your block drain plug off? Am I smoking crack or is that thing almost welded in there its so damn tight??
 

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Discussion Starter #7
How did you get your block drain plug off? Am I smoking crack or is that thing almost welded in there its so damn tight??
I only did the driver side. I sprayed it with liquid wrench, then gently tapped an 8mm allen key in with a hammer (my plug was rusted such that I could only push the key the hole about 1mm). Then I simply used my allen socket with 6" adapter and my breaker bar. Snapped pretty loud when it broke free, but I didn't push really hard at all. I got scared for 1/2 a second that I snapped it off...but all was fine. Now I just use a 12" adapter and regular ratchet for on/off during the flushes.

I only had a problem with the Vertical EGR cooler lower brace...after 3 hours of futzing and no progress, I gave up. I probably could have had the egr coolers of by that time, but I kept thinking I could get it...until I was 3 hours in and didn't want to spend another few hours taking the cooler off and having to maybe replace gaskets and stuff. It'll have to wait until I do an EGR delete I guess. All I wanted was to look at the thermostats for hyper-extension. Paranoia, I suppose, but I was most of the way in there for the upper radiator hose...so I tried and failed. :mad:

I'm going to get some silicone lubricant for the lower radiator hose, where I keep separating it to drain more fluid. It is getting hard to get on and off and has none of the factory lube intact that I can feel.
 

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Here's the pic, thanks for your tips! EGR is only coming out, not half assing that myself :)

 

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Discussion Starter #9
Here's the pic, thanks for your tips! EGR is only coming out, not half assing that myself :)
My sentiments exactly...If I'm removing the EGR anything, it's going in the box in the shop!

Thanks for the pic. Seems like I should not be able to miss that. Hope it's still there!!! :confused:
 

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Haha exactly! I had the same train of thought, hey I am in here, lets check the thermostats out, I looked at that EGR bracket and went F-that! Save that until they come off for good.

Good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Hmmmmm.........Here's a twist......




Where is my vacuum pump? Is your pump attached to the mounting hole on the side wall? Would you need to relocate this for any reason? For a lift, for instance?
 

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didn't know this...i wondered the same thing. glad i know now!!!

mthompson--the pump is attached with that threaded hole and a wedged metal bracket. you're missing the pump all together. Shoulda been there, and you shouldn't have had to take it off for the egr delete.
 

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didn't know this...i wondered the same thing. glad i know now!!!

mthompson--the pump is attached with that threaded hole and a wedged metal bracket. you're missing the pump all together. Shoulda been there, and you shouldn't have had to take it off for the egr delete.
I didn't take it off. I noticed the empty clamp when I put everything back on. Now, I'm wondering where it is. I am thinking that the shop that put the lift on moved it (?) instead of lengthening the hoses?

i should be able to find the acuator by following the lines from the hub, no?

MT
 

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anyone putting on your lift that messes with this pump shouldn't touch your truck IMHO. Nonetheless, it's not there. I don't know enough about this pump to give you advice on whether it's a show stopper or not. Maybe some of the regs' will chime in. Regardless, your truck must be runnin aight without it, and i've seen some without this pump.

the only time i hear it running is just before the truck turns on to vacuum the lines. I will do some more research for you. sorry i couldn't offer more help.
 

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Holds vacuum really well after the trucks run so sometimes you won't even hear it next time you start. If you turn your key forward first thing in the AM then you should be able to hear it wherever it went off to. You can also pop off the vacuum line that feeds the side of the ventri T upgrade if you have that, it will stabilize then reinstall line, key forward (no start) and listen for the pump again.

I will snap a picture in the morning for you and show you some of the vacuum lines and see if that helps you figure it out and if you can figure out where they go.

EDIT: Here's someone's picture
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I wonder if my truck does not have this system since I have a manual transfer case/ locking hubs?

I don't know much about auto transfer cases and vacuum locking hubs...never had that option on a vehicle. Is the vacuum pump just for auto locking hubs? I do know that my dad's auto 4x4 system was always screwed up (05 Suburban) and he'd not be able to go into 4x4 in winter or he would and it felt like the front brakes would be on because the rear tires would spin super easy if it engaged. Dealership wanted like $800 to diagnose and change the solenoid/system.

I like the manual transfer cases, feels more "secure" or...."oh, I can feel the thing engage when I shift it" sort of thing. Better then relying on an electric solenoid and vacuum(?) pumps in the dead of winter in 2' of snow and -20°F outside....Even if I have to jump out for 10 seconds and twist two locking hubs.

I'll do a bit more searching and see if this is why mine is missing....


MT
 

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Ya if you don't have shift on the fly 4x4, you won't have it.
 

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Ya if you don't have shift on the fly 4x4, you won't have it.
Ok, I was worried for a second....but I could only find two lines to the hub. 1 brake and 1 ABS sensor (?)....then I thought, why would I need vacuum engaged hubs, when I just turn the knob and shift the shifter....:dunno:

I guess I will continue to be out of the loop on Auto 4x4 systems, but I do know now a bit more about how they operate (at least on Ford). :)

MT
 

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These came with manual transfer cases still? Dang I missed out! Loved my old transfer case, and less pumps/hoses to go wrong, oh well. Glad you got it figured out!
 
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