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Discussion Starter #1
I’ve got a ‘13 550 cab and chassis with what I believe is a dead turbo. The truck had been exhibiting poor top end. Sometimes it really wouldn’t want to do much more than 70. Then for about 2 weeks, it developed a bit of a “whine”. This coupled with the sluggish performance made me think I had a leak somewhere in the turbo system. On the way to the job, while cruising at 65 with steady throttle, there was a bit of a “clunk” then a mechanical “rattle” persisted. The truck was still moving. Power topped out at about 50. The “rattle” was directly connected to engine rpm. Throttle up, rattle sped up, throttle down and coast, rattle tapered off. It never got overly violent. A buddy met me at the exit I was at. He’s had about 10 6.7’s. After listening to it for a second, he said the turbo took a ****. I limped it home. About 20 miles in to the 25 mile trip home, the truck quietly and gently shut off after I exited from the highway. Wouldn’t restart for a minute. Then when it did, it’d sputter out and die right after putting it in drive. It’s in my driveway and I’m ready to throw a new turbo in it. But before ordering one, I figured I’d at least ask for a couple opinions. Sooooo, thoughts? Should I get one of these bad boys on order?

Thanks for the help
 

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I would look at the high pressure fuel pump.
Though the early turbos did see some failures.
Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I’ve got the following codes:
P00BD
P246C
P1247
P2073

And as an added bonus, the truck isn’t starting now. The starter engages but it won’t turn over.
 

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Those are air flow codes and an overloaded DPF. Sounds like a turbo to me.
 

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  • P00BD
    • Mass Air Flow (MAF) "A" Circuit Range/Performance - Air Flow Too High, that is, MAF air flow readings are higher than the expected range for a particular engine speed and load range
  • P246C
    • Particulate Filter Restriction: The PCM monitors the diesel particulate filter for a high restriction. This DTC sets during normal vehicle operation when the diesel particulate filter pressure is greater than a calibrated amount. The PCM limits engine performance
  • P1247
    • Turbo Boost Pressure Low
  • P2073
    • Manifold Absolute Pressure/Mass Air Flow - Throttle Position Correlation at Idle
IMHO the 2nd code is the cause of the others. Do you have a monitor to show soot load on the DPF? An overloaded DPF can cause turbo issues.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I checked the common intercooler failure also. It seems like mine is in tact, although it looks like maybe one of the clamps ate it. I’m still trying to find a good picture of the stock configuration of clamps. And there is definitely soot coating that pipe.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I have a lame Innova 5410 scanner. I know it’s not very thorough, so I’m not sure about a DPF spot load
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Some food for thought......
The in dash display tells me the exhaust filter is 70% full.
I think my no start was simply batteries.
The truck fired up. It actually sounds decent for a second, then it acts as if it’s being HEAVILY retarded. It idles way down, almost like you’re pressing a kill switch with the throttle mashed.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
The no start was definitely batteries. Just a coincidence.
I disconnected the exhaust upstream of the dpf. It started and ran without idling down. The turbo is definitely shot, there’s some for sure bearing noise. And there was a stream of oil coming out of the exhaust where I disconnected it.
I’ve got a turbo on the way. I’ll get it replaced this weekend. I’m keeping my fingers crossed I bump the key and life is back to normal.
 

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The no start was definitely batteries. Just a coincidence.
I disconnected the exhaust upstream of the dpf. It started and ran without idling down. The turbo is definitely shot, there’s some for sure bearing noise. And there was a stream of oil coming out of the exhaust where I disconnected it.
I’ve got a turbo on the way. I’ll get it replaced this weekend. I’m keeping my fingers crossed I bump the key and life is back to normal.
Not to be a downer, but when I had my engine replaced they told me any oil entering the exhaust would kill the DPF.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
The way these last few months have gone, I’m definitely preparing myself for a delete job lol.
 

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I’ve got a ‘13 550 cab and chassis with what I believe is a dead turbo. The truck had been exhibiting poor top end. Sometimes it really wouldn’t want to do much more than 70. Then for about 2 weeks, it developed a bit of a “whine”. This coupled with the sluggish performance made me think I had a leak somewhere in the turbo system. On the way to the job, while cruising at 65 with steady throttle, there was a bit of a “clunk” then a mechanical “rattle” persisted. The truck was still moving. Power topped out at about 50. The “rattle” was directly connected to engine rpm. Throttle up, rattle sped up, throttle down and coast, rattle tapered off. It never got overly violent. A buddy met me at the exit I was at. He’s had about 10 6.7’s. After listening to it for a second, he said the turbo took a ****. I limped it home. About 20 miles in to the 25 mile trip home, the truck quietly and gently shut off after I exited from the highway. Wouldn’t restart for a minute. Then when it did, it’d sputter out and die right after putting it in drive. It’s in my driveway and I’m ready to throw a new turbo in it. But before ordering one, I figured I’d at least ask for a couple opinions. Sooooo, thoughts? Should I get one of these bad boys on order?

Thanks for the help
 

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not sure if this goes hand in hand,, My 2011 6.7 ( f350) on turbo number 2 blown... first one i was away and had someone install it. i tolf them upgrade from factory . yea 17 months number 2 blown. mine did about the same thing. i was in the middle of nowhere and just baby'ed it to cell service and engine toast now... the splines are gone, shaft snapped in half and i just yanked the engine and stripped it. thinking maybe a main spun along with the god aweful sound it made..... 2 pistons toasted and cylinders scratched , 5 valves cracked. a connecting rod scored up a little. . do yourself a favor. if the turbo is beatup go the extra step and make sure shreds of metal didnt go in the engine...
i was hoping for 3K swapout turbo and back on the road... lol i'm in now to a machine shop bored cylinders pistons and all the nice goodies that come with it.. that 1 more day or two might save you 8 or 9 K which is probably what i am looking at now....... total bottom end, heads and turbo... if you go stock get the 2015 and retro kit. i have heard nothing but good or get away from OEM upgraded stock replacement.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Got the new turbo in and surprise surprise, she’s still hammered. It idled fine, even responded to throttle fine in the driveway. I got down the road for a test drive and an exhaust leak developed just upstream of the dpf. Then I lost all power. I was able to disconnect the down pipe just before the dpf and drive it home. So, I’m guessing a plugged up dpf. Do I just replace it and I’m good? What about the other emissions components.....scr, doc, etc
 

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Discussion Starter #18
After doing a little looking. Im thinking I might prefer to delete it. Looks like cost is comparable either way
 
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