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Discussion Starter #1
So.. I was having the error message that indicated I needed to change the trans temp sensor and I know I was almost at the point I needed to change the tranny fluid so I decided to do it all tonight.

Everything went well. Got the old sensor out and the new one in.. added the '08 and up pan and filter as well.. went to do the external filter.. 3 minute job.. right? The bolt on the bottom of the filter housing snapped clean off. I tried with a strap wrench as well as a pipe wrench and I was bending the bracket so I stopped and bent it back.

I saw someone mentioned they used an air chisel to break it. Any other thoughts? Any idea where to hit it so I don't damage anything inside? I do own an air chisel bit wanted to do that as a last resort.

Any help/advise would be appreciated.

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Discussion Starter #2
Am I trying to dig in and turn it with the air chisel or break it apart?

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In hindsight I use my electric impact to loosen it.

Now, I would take a 18" pipe wrench and put the wrench around the whole housing, steady, level force.
If that doesnt work, the chisel will get it done.

Be prepared to replace the whole thing.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
In hindsight I use my electric impact to loosen it.



Now, I would take a 18" pipe wrench and put the wrench around the whole housing, steady, level force.

If that doesnt work, the chisel will get it done.



Be prepared to replace the whole thing.
Thank you. The pipe wrench was my first try. I was bending the bracket with that too and then ran out of room and couldn't get it back on. I bent it back but I'm sure the metal is weaker now and would probably bend right back.

When you say.. "get ready to replace the whole thing" do you mean the whole assembly or just the cup? I have found the replacement cup and it's on its way now... Won't be here till tomorrow though.

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Yes, I suspect what you heard was to use an "impact" wrench on it, not an air chisel. It would have likely came loose pretty quick with that method. As you have seen, the bracket just isn't strong enough to hold when turning the bowl conventionally. For where you are now, I'd probably try to shore up the bracket with something and then use your strap or pipe wrench. Another option would be to remove the lines and take the assembly to the bench to get it apart.
 

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If the pipe wrench bent the brackets, and the nut on the bottom is broken off, I would replace the whole assembly.

You might be able to salvage it by working on the bench, but once the brackets bend I toss it because next time they will just bend again and I will likely burn the whole truck to the ground. :lol2:
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Yes, I suspect what you heard was to use an "impact" wrench on it, not an air chisel. It would have likely came loose pretty quick with that method. As you have seen, the bracket just isn't strong enough to hold when turning the bowl conventionally. For where you are now, I'd probably try to shore up the bracket with something and then use your strap or pipe wrench. Another option would be to remove the lines and take the assembly to the bench to get it apart.
I should have clarified everything I did to begin with in my original post.

I did try the impact wrench first..it's a Milwaukee with 500 ft lbs of torque. I hit it a couple of times and looked at the nut (yes, I was using an 8-point socket) and I saw some shiny metal. Afraid I'd damaged it with the impact I then attempted to use the breaker bar which finished it off. I then tried the pipe wrench and when that didn't work I resorted to the strap wrench.

The truck was in Ohio for the first few years of its life, then in Indiana after that. The underside of the truck has some surface rust and the cup looks to be corroded. I suspect it is somewhat damaged. I think what happened here was it was damaged with the impact wrench and I finished it off with the breaker bar.

Trying to figure out how I'd shore it up enough to give it another try.

Here is a photo of what I'm dealing with.


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How did you get an 8-point socket on a 6-point hex? LOL I assume that was a typo.

The Milwaukee was a bit overkill, but if it's like mine, you should have put it on the first setting and just kept bumping on it in 2-3 second bursts. The high setting (assuming it was selectable), could probably have worked to, but you may have ended up with the same result.

Not sure if you can get a block of wood or something wedged in to help hold the bracket or not. At this point it may be more cost and time effective to just remove the assembly.
 
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If you're determined, remove the housing assembly and spray some pb blaster on the seam where its threaded onto and let it soak overnight. It needs time to creep/seep into everything. You could always drill a hole in the old cup where the nut was, drain the fluid and spray some pb blaster inside to let is soak even better.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
How did you get an 8-point socket on a 6-point hex? LOL I assume that was a typo.



The Milwaukee was a bit overkill, but if it's like mine, you should have put it on the first setting and just kept bumping on it in 2-3 second bursts. The high setting (assuming it was selectable), could probably have worked to, but you may have ended up with the same result.



Not sure if you can get a block of wood or something wedged in to help hold the bracket or not. At this point it may be more cost and time effective to just remove the assembly.
Yeah yeah yeah.. typo.. brain fart, etc. LOL

I'll have to try putting a block of wood in there. I saw a YouTube video where he goes at with an air chisel from the inside.. which would press the assembly into the frame rather than out.

Here is the video



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What comes to mind is a strap wrench, or someone had a video for an oil cap of putting two screws on the cap, one on each side, and then using a bar between the two screws to get it to spin. For my oil cap, it was a chisel and hammer hitting lightly at an angle getting it to turn.

Honestly, with my luck lately, I am pretty cautious at something when its stuck. On a repair on my other vehicle, especially around the exhaust bolts, I've stripped a couple despite using six point sockets, penetrating oil, and heat. Comes a point when I'd have that strap wrench around the filter, its not budging, where I'd accept the risk of keeping the filter in instead of risk physically tearing it off the mount, or breaking the lines. That's give me a bit of time to think about the right way of getting it off. Way I remember it, is the filter lines are closed by a thermostat until something like 165, so not much would come out on a filter swap with the pan on and a cold engine. I'd also measure amount lost and put that in for starters.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Well.. the way I see it right now I think I'm going to try the method outlined in the video. If it breaks, I'll just replace the whole thing.

If any of you are any ideas on how to properly brace the filter so it doesn't flex with the bracket let me know. I think that would really help.

I won't have a chance to try it again till Thursday or Friday. I'll let you know what happens.

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Like I said, replace it.
These things take years off your life trying to save a couple hundred bucks.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
How do you get the bracket off? I couldn't see the bolts.

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As stated earlier, I used my Milwaukee electric impact and a couple 2-3 second bursts, and she started to spin. Then again, I don't live in the rust belt either. I know that doesn't help things at all!

-jokester
 
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