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Crank No Start

7744 Views 100 Replies 5 Participants Last post by  BeardedSilverback
Well, this is gonna be a first for me. First time dealing with a crank no start. Ran fine to the grocery store and almost all the way home. Came around a corner at slow speed and engine cut off out of no where. Pulled off to the side of the road. Crank no start for a couple attempts. Then fired up, held idle just fine, ICP, FICM, BATT Voltage were all normal. Made it about 300 ft, went up the most slightest incline and engine cut off again. Few more crank no starts and it fired up again for about 10ish seconds, then died off again. Hasn't fired up again after 6 or more attempts.

Background on truck:
  • 2007 6.0, 159800 miles
  • Running an 8k Tow Tune (SCT X4 tuning device). Loaded the tune in the truck well over 4 weeks ago. Can't say who wrote it or if it's canned tuna...tuner came with the truck when I bought it in May of this year
  • Cat-back MBRP 4 inch with a test pipe in place of the actual meow meow
  • BPD EGR and Air/OIl Cooler installed. Due for an oil change and fuel filter change in 200 miles.
  • Using an Edge CTS3 digital gauge set to monitor operating parameters
  • Battery Voltage shows 11.8-11.9 after multiple cranking attempts (10 or so)
  • FICM Voltage between 48.5 and 49.5 (stock FICM) key on, not cranking
  • Normal cranking speed, not sluggish
  • Can still hear the fuel pump noises when turning key to on
  • ICP Voltage shows between .93 and 1.00V when cranking
  • ICP pressure shows around 650-700 PSI when cranking
  • No smell of raw fuel out of the tail pipe
  • No obvious fluid leaks around the engine.

Looking for any and all suggestions. I'm presentely "parked" in a red zone troubleshooting this thing.

Ok, here's an update before I even finish writing this. Gave it one more shot and it fired up. Letting it idle for a bit and seeing what happens before trying to drive it. Time between it dying the second time and this successful start was around 30 mins.

- Idle ICP V is .86-.87
-FICM holding at 49 - 49.5
  • Idle ICP PSI 575-585
  • Idle Batt V 12.9 - 13.0 (stock single alternator)

Never encountered any of this before. She has been as reliable as anything up until the last hour. Maybe freak occurrence?
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Old harness out, new harness 80% installed. Unbolting the AC compressor to get to the crank sensor was a severe pain in my arse. Swapping out for the 6.4 banjo bolts since I needed to pop them off anyways. Oil pressure sender connector isn't clipping onto the sender itself and the last a hole that did it forced it on as the clip on the connector was busted and the plug was darn near impossible to pull off. I had to shatter the old connector to remove it. Something aint right there.. Pretty sure I'm gonna have to swap in a new sender. Checked the IPR since I was deep in the engine. It was good, no junk on the screen and the screen was barely pushed in. Put new orings and a new screen on and reinstalled. That's all for now. Supposed to rain till Monday night here in sunny San Diego. Since I'm working outside in a parking lot, all reinstallation is on hold till next week. Pic just because...
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A little wd40 on those electrical connectors help them to slide together

snow / rain / ice here today
Every other connector went together relatively easy. That oil press sender connector felt like it was hitting something in the sensor. I'd rather change that sensor for $30 than f up a brand new $900 harness connector.
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I swear I hope this is the final update to this saga. Finished the main engine harness and installed a new all aluminum two row radiator in the process. Ran all the KOEO tests available in ForScan Lite, only code I got was a P1000 from the batteries being disconnected for a couple weeks, I know that'll clear.
Fired up, first crank, rough for a second or two then smooth idle. Next on the chopping block is getting the re-learn done on the VGT. After that, God willing, she's good to go. 🤞🙏
Sounds like you have gotten done what was needed. please keep us informed on the radiator performance. I would love to see another good aftermarket option there. I consider cooling so very important to longevity.
Narrator: "It would in fact NOT be the final update to this saga"

Shut off again while doing the road test. All the numbers - ICP, IPR%, Cranking RPM, fuel press, Sync - all are correct.

Now, I don't have FICM sync when cranking. I didn't catch it this time when it shut off on me if it lost FICM sync and shut off because of that. Obviously, wiring is all new as are the CKP/CMP sensors and the plugs on the FICM and everything else are hooked up and are all tight - I heard two clicks each plug when I reinstalled the FICM. I'm starting to think the FICM itself is the issue now. Not sure what else would cause this thing to randomly shut off on me like this.
It is possible there is a cracked solder joint at a connector or a component failing
Brand new from Ford main engine wiring harness and injector harness. Shouldn't be a wiring issue.
Caught it in the act this time. Pretty sure I've got a logic side issue with the FICM. Saw it flicker between 1 and 0 a couple times just now before it quit running (was at idle).
wow - full circle!
When it rains, it pours.
I was referring to the FICM internals -- not the harness, but still "new does not mean good"
Good point.
Intermittent electrical problems can have seemingly random symptoms sometimes, making it difficult to find the common denominator to the problem

Would not surprise me that there was a cracked solder joint on one of the FICM connectors, there is a lot of tension from the harness on those connectors
and with heat and vibration that is present, a cracked connection can still function for a time, until something causes the connection to "wiggle around" into the failed position
Ordered a FICM from FICMRepair - lifetime warranty version, PHP Atlas40, and a new FICM relay (just because). Should be here Monday, if not sooner. Fingers crossed.
Ok, knock on wood, the saga seems to be over with. Got the FICM from FICMRepair installed, put the new FICM relay in, charged up the batteries, and just took her for a 40 mile test run. Stop and go driving as well as long stretches on the freeway. No issues. All the numbers look good.
On a side note, that Altas40 FICM tune is niiiice. Puts a little extra pep in her step.
Big thank you to @bismic and @Hydro for all the assistance.
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2 week (and final) update on this thread. Truck is running great. Drive it daily now and I have restored trust and confidence in it. The Gearhead SRL+ PCM tuning and Atlas40 FICM tuning is an awesome combo. Took a couple days for the VGT to relearn and not blow black smoke every time I touched the pedal, but now it only dumps black if I punch it hard from a dead stop. 👍
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