Aaaaaannnd, it died again after maybe 5 mins of idling. Didn't try dropping it into drive to move it. Just wanted to see if it would hold an idle,, which it did, kind of.
Only code that showed up was U1900-30 CAN BUS Comm code. Oddly enough, I popped the hood, looked around (didn't touch nothin) and tried starting again with the hood up. It started, so I left the hood up and I was able to drive the last 600 ft (with my hazards on and the hood still up) to my assigned space at my condo unit.There should be codes ......
I appreciate all the info. This is my first 6.0 so there is a huge learning curve that I'm undergoing.I am not impressed with the code reading thoroughness of the Edge units. ForScan has a better track record of retrieving them thoroughly.
That said, there are electronic glitches that can shut the engine down and will not throw codes. Failing IPR valve electronics, shorting out FICMs, injector solenoid shorts, and EBP sensor shorts, are all known to not always throw codes. Probably a few more.
Having known good parts to try is always a help, but not available to everyone. That said, the issue could be a harness problem, which can be difficult to find as well.
Pretty sure the common harness issue locations are listed in the link I posted above.
The fan clutch harness is a common one, but as I mentioned earlier - an issue there should definitely should throw a code.
The fuel pump times out at 20 seconds if the engine is not running -- which is about the time the injectors get done on a cold engineChecked fuel pressure KOEO, pumps up to 55psi while the injectors run through their clicking, then drops almost immediately to zero after the injectors finish clicking, making a hissing type sound somewhere around the secondary fuel filter housing as the pressure drops off. About to go check fuel pressure under load. Working on getting the Forscan adapter and software for my phone.
She has a full tank of fuel. Took a couple of times cycling the key on/off to get pressure to build in the bowl.The fuel pump times out at 20 seconds if the engine is not running -- which is about the time the injectors get done on a cold engine
What is the fuel level in the tank ? -- need to have more than 1/4
I gotta go at it a little differently. I live in a condo complex so I have to take them out of the truck to charge them. Trying to figure out if I should take out one at a time to charge it, then place back in the truck to maintain system voltage.Charger at first, makes no difference which battery you connect to, as they are connected in a parallel circuit -- get em topped up and check the voltage when you are cranking -- resting voltage means little here, other than that they are undercharged
The flickering lights are an indicator that your battery is shot (or just needs charged) -- or at least not passing voltage to the truck -- gotta figure which one it is -- checking for corroded or loose connections (provided the battery holds voltage) is a first place to start -- voltage testing while cranking, after you have checked the connections - should tell if the battery is bad or not -- the starter and glow plugs are a good load tester, combined with a volt meter