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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
okay, so i’ve scoured the forums for info but can’t seem to pin point the issue. I bought a 95 F350 for a good price (not running) for a good price. so the previous owner claims the truck ran perfectly until it sat for a few months and when he tried to start it back up, the mechanical fuel pump pin broke. he replaced it along with dorman UVC gaskets and off brand glow plugs. i got the truck and it cranked with no smoke. i replaced the glow plugs with motor craft ones. changed the oil with delo, wix fuel filter. i threw a reman IDM at it thinking it was the issue, nothing changed. did the IPR (motor craft) and since then i’ve been getting smoke. then i had fuel leaking out of the banjo bolt on the mechanical fuel pump, they didn’t use crush washers they had some RTV on some strange washer. fixed that. i tested the original IDM in my buddy’s truck and it ran fine so i guess IDM wasn’t the issue. i have the IPC unplugged cause the wiring looks botched and i figured it should start with it unplugged. i finally got smart and multi metered the idm wiring and all checked good except one of the injector wires on the drivers side bank. i opened up the cover and the wires slipped out of the connector to injector 6. i put them back properly and it tested 2.9 ohms. closed up the valve cover and tried to crank it and still just puffs of smoke out the tail pipe, it’s not even trying to fire. HPOP res is full, i’ve tried jumping the glow plug relay before cranking but still nothing. any suggestions? tach moves when cranking
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
CPS?

May need a new glow plug relay. White smoke means injectors are firing.
CPS?

May need a new glow plug relay. White smoke means injectors are firing.
havnt replaced the CPS because the tach moves when cranking. could it still be the culprit? i’m going to test continuity of the glow plugs and uvc harness tomorrow and see because the relay looks fairly new and i’ve even jumped the relay with some pliers before cranking and still no joy. ill report my findings tomorrow, thanks for the quick response!
 
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CPS failure causes all sorts of issues including ones like this. Fairly cheap and simple and if it turns out to be ok then keep it as a spare.

The batteries and starter must be in good health too.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
CPS failure causes all sorts of issues including ones like this. Fairly cheap and simple and if it turns out to be ok then keep it as a spare.

The batteries and starter must be in good health too.
going to pick one up today, i heard the napa ones are good, something about adding chokes to the wiper and cps wires any insight? i’ve heard of issues with the ford ones. also, been charging the batteries before cranking and it’s a brand new starter
 
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No need for chokes. EMI is not an issue with these trucks i've ever heard of. You can hinder the CPS signal if incorrect chokes are used.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
No need for chokes. EMI is not an issue with these trucks i've ever heard of. You can hinder the CPS signal if incorrect chokes are used.
so i multi metered the glow plugs, i either got .9 or 1.9 on all of them. how can i test to see if the relay is working? what resistance should it be? ill install that cps tomorrow. and see if she fires up.
 

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To check the glowplug relay (GPR), measure the voltage drop across the GPR's large terminals. While the GPR is active (up to 1.5 to 2 minutes after the key is turned to Wait-to-Start) put your meter leads on the large terminals (one lead on one large terminal and the other lead on the other large terminal). This measures how much voltage is being "lost" across the relay. A reading of 0.3V or more indicates a bad relay. Also, check the relay’s control wires (smaller wires) disconnected from the relay for battery voltage at the Red/Light Green striped wire and ground at the Purple/Orange striped wire (check both when the key is turned to Wait-to-Start). Cheers!
 
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
so i tested GPR and it was bad so i replaced it, burned out the crappy durga last starter so i returned it and got a super duty 2 bolt starter and after a bunch of cranking to bleed the lines it finally ran, still air in the lines so it was pretty sporadic. it was idling nice then died and i couldn’t get it to start. the dipstick in the truck is pretty ****ty, when i filled it with the proper 16 quarts it was way over the line by a lot so i figured it wasn’t the oem one. added oil and it fired up. i’ve done this like 2 times now and added a total of 3 or 4 quarts and it just died again after like a minute of holding rpm at about 1500rpm. could this thing be eating oil or does it hold like 20 or 21 with oil filter and if the HPOP was empty from changing the IPR valve. when i go to restart the truck the rpms seem to be not steady so i’m gonna install that new CPS i bought from napa and see.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
swapped out the cps, no change
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
i’m not getting smoke while cranking anymore, could my IDM have taken a crap? it looks like the stock ford one. tested it last week in my buddies truck and it worked but maybe it went out
 

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Oil capacity is14 quarts when doing a filter change. If the oil level is too high it will cause problems! A note (and not that this is your problem), but the 94's came with the wrong dipstick and the owner's manual specified only 12 quarts of oil. They revised that spec and had a new dipstick for them, but I just waited until I did a 14-quart change, ran it and then let it sit overnight on level ground. The correct level was easy to see and I engraved the old dipstick. I've attached the TSB on it just for info. It does list the dipstick part number if you wanted to try a new one (about $24 online). Cheers!
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Oil capacity is14 quarts when doing a filter change. If the oil level is too high it will cause problems! A note (and not that this is your problem), but the 94's came with the wrong dipstick and the owner's manual specified only 12 quarts of oil. They revised that spec and had a new dipstick for them, but I just waited until I did a 14-quart change, ran it and then let it sit overnight on level ground. The correct level was easy to see and I engraved the old dipstick. I've attached the TSB on it just for info. It does list the dipstick part number if you wanted to try a new one (about $24 online). Cheers!
okay thanks, it may be over full but i wasn’t sure. i guess i’ll have to drain it all out and refill it to be sure. i figured because it abruptly died that it could have been low oil but i’m thinking it could be the IDM failing, now i crank it and get zero smoke.
 

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If the IDM has failed you should get the CEL illuminating. Cheers!
 
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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Only way to know is to get a scanner on it and attempt a buzz test.
If the IDM has failed you should get the CEL illuminating. Cheers!
gonna try my IDM on my buddies truck and see. i don’t know what else would have stalled the truck while i was holding it at 1500 rpm then when attempting restart i got no smoke. what else do you guys think it could be? i have the IPC unplugged just to eliminate that being the issue
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
so today the IDM checked good in my friends truck. i’m lost to what the issue could be. maybe a bad ground? the terminals aren’t the greatest on it, i think i’ll try swapping those out next. ill check fuel pressure and that the fuel bowl is filling up. not sure why else i wouldn’t be getting smoke while cranking
 

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Again, you need to perform a buzz test with it installed in your truck. This will verify the wiring and connections are good to the IDM.

You need a scanner on the truck to read live data or else you will keep throwing parts at it.

You need a working fuel pump, HPOP, electrical signal, glow plugs and compression. So fuel bowl and HPOP must be full and putting out the correct pressure. IDM needs to be sending the correct signal and timing to the injectors. No white smoke means no fuel, high pressure oil and/or electrical signal.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Again, you need to perform a buzz test with it installed in your truck. This will verify the wiring and connections are good to the IDM.

You need a scanner on the truck to read live data or else you will keep throwing parts at it.

You need a working fuel pump, HPOP, electrical signal, glow plugs and compression. So fuel bowl and HPOP must be full and putting out the correct pressure. IDM needs to be sending the correct signal and timing to the injectors. No white smoke means no fuel, high pressure oil and/or electrical signal.
i understand a buzz test would make my life easier, i don’t have access to a scanner at the moment. i multi metered the IDM to injector wire harness and they all checked good. its got a brand new fuel pump, new IPR, full HPOP. trucks been sitting for awhile before i got it, could it be a clogged fuel line or screen in the tank? i guess tomorrow if i have time ill crank it with the fuel bowl open to see if its filling up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
im suspecting a tank clog of some sort. would it be a bad idea to end pressure through that air valve on the regulator or would that be pretty pointless? or disconnect the right line off the mechanical fuel pump and send air through there directly to the tanks?
 
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