[Sun Joa]

Hi everyone, I will try to be as clear as possible (I am a rookie). I am not in the US, so it might be kind of difficult for me to follow up with your suggestions. I will say everything chronologically:
I bought the truck in December 2018: 2000 F-350 7.3 (not dually), it had been parked for over 2 years when I bought it, engine started immediately after installing the batteries.

• After two weeks of driving it started to mix diesel with coolant: I replaced all injector cups and injectors o-rings and it continued to work just fine.
• 2 months later it stalled while driving and I parked it for another 18 months.
• Around August 2020 I searched over the internet about stalled while driving and found the typical 7.3 powerstroke issue with the ICP and IPR, replaced them both with cheap ones from eBay and the engine started immediately again, I was able to see RPM in dash while cranking (240 to 260 RPM).
• Drove 120 miles and stalled again: replaced CPS since I was not longer able to see RPM in the dash while cranking, but I realized that I was getting about 125-130 RPM with OBD2 Torque App, also replaced ICP and IPR again with Motorcraft ones on 12/26/2020.
• Since I had replaced CPS, ICP and IPR with Motorcraft and still crank no start and too low RPM while cranking, I fed the starter direct 12v and I was getting 250-260 RPM with the OBD2 Torque App, but RPM on dash. I do get a glow plug error code with FORScan but even with that error it was starting before.

Please let me know where else to look, I also checked fuse boxes inside and outside and they are all fine.

 

[NoRalPh]

Welcome to the Forum!

Here's what you want to do, configure your app to monitor these 4 important things;

1) ICP pressure (in psi for us)
2) IPR %
3) Cranking RPM (I'd take the TorqueApp's reading over the Tach)
4) System Voltage while cranking (best to use the in-cab "Outlet" to see what the PCM's voltage is)

The ICP needs to be above @500 psi - the IPR% shows how hard it is to make that pressure - RPM has to be above 100 - the voltage has to be above @10v (in a 2000) or the PCM will not trigger the IDM to fire the injectors.

Then,,,, My usual No Start -

WTS Light? - do you get it when you first roll-on the key? (shows the computer is running)

Do you see cranking rpm on the Tach? Can you verify cranking rpm signal with a scanner of some sort?

Is there fuel in the fuel bowl now? Does it refill after cranking? (open the drain lever to check) Look above the pass ft tire, you'll see a 3/8" metal tube, against the motor that ends there, it's the drain for the bowl (yellow lever you slide to the side). Get a cup, open the lever, drain the fuel bowl, look at the fuel, close the lever. Then, turn the key to the ON position (should hear the pump) for 15 secs. Drain the fuel bowl again, whaddya got?

Can you hear/feel the pump running (below the dr seat, against the framerail)

Could the fuel gauge be giving a bad reading? (Below 1/4 tank?)

Is it cranking fast enough? - it won't even TRY to start if cranking too slowly.

Is your truck "chipped"? If so, remove it as a Test.

You can unplug the ICP sensor, as a Test, so the PCM sets a default value for the IPR to run on (expect this to set a new "Low ICP" code, don't let that misdirect you after a scan).

Did you check the plug and sheet metal nut going to the IPR? That nut can vibrate off and allow the solenoid going over the valve to slide around. The wires going to the IPR can get brittle, crack, and short together. Make sure the plug & wires look in good shape.

 

[Sun Joa]

Thanks for the quick response,

I will configure Torque app as you instructed and let you know what numbers I get.

WTS light does come up when I turn the key and I wait for it to go off before cranking

I no longer see RPM on the tach while cranking, I only see it in the OBD2 App (torque app or FORScan)

Yes, there is fuel in the bowl and I even made sure by unscrewing the metal pipe that feeds the bowl and there is high pressure fuel going into the bowl.

I did not check the pump below driver seat, will do and let you know.

I have half a tank, but I will fill it up just to make sure.

Yes, it is cranking fast enough.

No, truck is not chipped (completely stock)

Yes, I unplugged the ICP and did not start anyways.

I will completely follow both ICP and IPR lines to make sure they are in good condition.

The truck is 138 miles away from my house, I know that if I had it parking in my yard I would be a lot easier, there aren't good mechanics here and the ones that are "good" do not work with old trucks, so I have to do this myself.

I will do everything you told me and give you updates

 

[MattGabrie]

Thanks for the quick response,
9 o
I will configure Torque app as you instructed and let you know what numbers I get.

WTS light does come up when I turn the key and I wait for it to go off before cranking

I no longer see RPM on the tach while cranking, I only see it in the OBD2 App (torque app or FORScan)

Yes, there is fuel in the bowl and I even made sure by unscrewing the metal pipe that feeds the bowl and there is high pressure fuel going into the bowl.

I did not check the pump below driver seat, will do and let you know.

I have half a tank, but I will fill it up just to make sure.

Yes, it is cranking fast enough.

No, truck is not chipped (completely stock)

Yes, I unplugged the ICP and did not start anyways.

I will completely follow both ICP and IPR lines to make sure they are in good condition.

The truck is 138 miles away from my house, I know that if I had it parking in my yard I would be a lot easier, there aren't good mechanics here and the ones that are "good" do not work with old trucks, so I have to do this myself.

I will do everything you told me and give you updates

 

[MattGabrie]

buenas noches amigo pudiste resolver tu problema tengo la misma situacion con mi f250 7.3, si resolviste puedes dar la solucion thanks.

 

[Sun Joa]

No, aun no. Por razones no relacionadas a la camioneta: esta lejos de mi, todos en mi familia tuvimos COVID y mi nuevo empleo me absorbe todo el tiempo.
No, not yet. Due to reasons not related to the truck: it is far from me, my whole family we all had COVID and my new job takes all my time.

Planeo trabajarla en Febrero 2022
I plan to work on it in February 2022

 

[Sun Joa]

Hi, it has been a while, but the truck starts. Here is how (very unusual method):

To start the truck we connected the harmonic balancer to a cardan shaft to the RWD of another vehicle (see illustration).

Now the truck only starts while fed by the intake with bug killer spray, once it starts it smokes in white and after about 30-40 seconds smoke stops, it has to remain above 1300 RPM, otherwise it stalls.

Could this be the glow plugs? Any ideas please?

See video links:
Part 1

Part 1

This is the truck running after being powered by the SUV, you can see part of the carda shaft still attached to the harmonic balancer.

youtube.com

Part 2

Part 2

This after it was idle for a few minutes

youtube.com

 

[Sun Joa]

By the way, the trucks is now now at home (finally). It was about 140 miles away when everything started back in 2018.

If I need to upload any readings or add another video of what it does, please let me know.

 

[NoRalPh]

If I need to upload any readings or add another video of what it does, please let me know.

Here's what you want to do, configure your app to monitor these 4 important things;
1) ICP pressure (in psi for us)
2) IPR %
3) Cranking RPM (I'd take the TorqueApp's reading over the Tach)
4) System Voltage while cranking (best to use the in-cab "Outlet" to see what the PCM's voltage is)
The ICP needs to be above @500 psi - the IPR% shows how hard it is to make that pressure - RPM has to be above 100 - the voltage has to be above @10v (in a 2000) or the PCM will not trigger the IDM to fire the injectors.

If you can get those readings it might help a lot to understand what's going on...

 

[Sun Joa]

If you can get those readings it might help a lot to understand what's going on...

HPOP I get 2,000+ PSI
IPR 14.2%
RPM from 200 to 950 (nearly starts)

I used ForScan an ran the injector test and only 1 sounded loud and "long enough", 5 sounded poorly and shortly, 2 did not sound at all. and I got errors P1293 and P1294

Can the injectors be fixed if they are bad? Or do I have to buy them?