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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
This is my 1st post, so here it goes.

I've been working on my 2003 E350 7.3L for the past few months now on and off. I bought it back in February. When I first got it, it didn't take long to notice that the guy that had it before didn't really take care of it. I noticed it had a diesel/oil leak. Found that the engine valley was full of oil and diesel, could see that the filter/separator was leaking pretty bad. Also found out that the glow plugs weren't working. So I decided it was time to fix it right. I did a ton of research to see what else I might need while replacing the glow plugs and rebuilding the filter/separator. Found a bunch of the info on this site.

It was running "OK" before starting the repair upgrade process. Since the previous owner didn't take care of the vehicle I decided to replace some other items that were recommended to replace on other threads while I had it apart.

So this is what I did:

-Replaced glow plugs, UVC harnesses, engine wire harness to VC pigtails, VC gasket, and GP relay
-Replaced most of the sensors and their plugs to wiring harness- CPS, low pressure oil temp and pressure sensors, ICP and plug
-Replaced LPOP (Melling) and harmonic balancer
-Replaced water pump, tensioner, and belt
-Replaced HPOP (Bosch), lines, head to HPOP line fittings, and IPR and plug
-Rebuilt turbo, new cartridge, upgraded wheel, non-ebpv pedestal. ebpv delete plug
-New Diamond eye 4" exhaust, new bellowed up-pipes
-Upgrades- fuel rail crossover, high pressure crossover, High Flow Fuel CVD Fitting, air intake delete plug and code eliminator, billet intake plenums, ccv mod, high flow banjo bolts
-Changed oil

Most of the parts are from Riffraff diesel, Clay has been awesome through all of this. Pretty much all the parts are OEM (Ford or International) unless noted.

Tried to start- Crank No Start
HPOP reservoir full, fuel pressure 60-65psi (mechanical gauge), battery voltage good, engine RPM over 150.
Then cranked engine a bunch of times with AE connected to vehicle. ICP pressure only reaching 280-300 psi.
Dead headed HPOP-easily reached 1500-2000 psi while cranking
Isolated drivers side head and checked pressure- only reached 280-300 psi while cranking.

I then replaced the injector o-rings, evacuated the cylinders, and connected everything back up and tried to start- while cranking only getting up to 280-300psi. After a few times trying to start the started bogged down and died.

After replacing the starter, I decided to make sure that the cylinders were completely cleared out. So I removed the glow plugs and cranked the engine a few short times with the VC wiring disconnected. Replaced the glow plugs. I then check the ICP while cranking- it was able to get up to 1200psi pretty easily with both heads disconnected from the engine wiring harness. When I plugged up one side it would only get to about 400-420psi. With both heads connected only got to 280-300psi. I also checked the ICP and IPR for continuity to the ECM, both checked out fine.

I then remembered that the ICP was an aftermarket so I ran down to ford and grabbed a OEM replacement. When I replaced the sensor, I noticed that the oil rail wasn't completely full (air still caught in it). I screwed the sensor in slightly to let the air out while I cranked if over a few short time until oil came out. I also did this on the passenger side front plug, directly across from the ICP sensor. So I guess most of the air should now be of the rails now.

After that I got pressures of about 320-380psi while cranking. Once in awhile would peak at 400 psi.

Seeing that I was getting plenty of pressure when the VC harness was disconnected I figured it was an electrical issue maybe telling the injectors to open slightly. I checked the continuity from the IDM to the VC plug, each one read less than 1 ohm. I removed the IDM to check inside for corrosion, inside looks spotless.

Plugged everything back up. Ran KOEO test and buzz test. Everything passed.

I'm going to check all the wires again tomorrow to see if they ohm out and none of them are grounded. Then make a wiring harness to check what kind of signal the injectors are getting with the key on. I'm guessing at this point it could be the IDM. Not sure though.

I can't really think of anything else to do now.

Sorry for being so long winded. Thanks for any light that you can shed on this.

:please: Help
 

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Have you seen this vid ->


With all you've done, I'd think you'd have fixed almost anything related, but something's got to be going on with the drivers side. Have you tried cranking it with the Valve Covers off to look for excessive oil flow somewhere?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I did forget to mention that I've tried both the original and new IPRs, as well as making a pig tail for the IPR and supplied them with 9 or 12v. Both had the exact same results. I will try it again, wouldn't hurt.

I also forgot to mention that I've checked for oil under the valve covers while cranking a few different times through this process, but I will also check it again.

Thanks for your input, every little bit helps
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
The gauge, hose, and fittings I used, I found at a local hydraulic shop. They had the 5000psi gauge and made up the hose with jic female fitting. The male and female STC #6 plugs had to be ordered.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I did a bunch more cranking. When I say a bunch, 6-8 hours for days, 20 sec cranking and at least 4 mins cool down. ICP still only peaking at 400 psi then dropping down around 350 psi.

I hooked the IPR directly to a 9v battery with no change in pressure while cranking.

I checked all the wiring from the IDM to the injectors, all ohm out and none grounded out.

What confuses me is when I disconnect the wiring harness from the valve cover plug I get more than 2000 psi while cranking. When I plug in the harness it doesn't build past 350-400 psi. What could be causing this?

Any help would be greatly appreciated
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I did check again under the valve covers for any sign of oil while cranking and found none.

I tried a couple other things, including disconnecting the IPC sensor and tried cranking and still the same.

So I started taking some of the mods/upgrades off, thinking that the truck did run before. After removing the high pressure oil crossover and then the EBPV eliminator, it FINALLY started. Looks like the EBPV eliminator was some how messing with the computer or electrical system enough to not let it start.

I'll be looking further into this to see if I can find out exactly what was causing it. Maybe a bad resister in the terminator.

I also haven't had a chance to take it out for some "spirited" driving yet. I found out that the pulley on the new P/S pump that I put on doesn't line up correctly so the belt won't ride fully on the pulley.

I'll pull the pulley out some tomorrow then get up on the highway and put the hammer down a bit

:grin:
 
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