Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum banner
1 - 10 of 10 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited by Moderator)
2006 6.0 Brand new warren diesel long block installed, crank without proper tunes for 30 seconds to check for obvious leaks, wouldn't start again even after flashing the proper tunes. Motor would build 300 ICP psi but No start. Ended up being a bad low oil pressure regulator in the front cover. Replaced that, drove it for 500-600 miles and just as I'm about to change the oil for the first time it does the same thing. This time though my dash flashed low oil pressure after starting then it would die. (This is after driving it for over an hour) Did this twice then went straight to crank no start mode. Pulled the regulator back out and there was no obvious trash or wear that I could see. Read on here that it could be as simple as an oil pressure switch on the top of the oil cooler. Replaced that and the pigtail leading to it as it was showing bare wire. Still after all of that, crank no start. Please someone make it make sense. I am BEYOND upside down into this POS and I just need it to run for once.

My guesses are bad LP oil pump, another failed regulator or a wiring issue I'll never find. Truck ran like a top, until it didn't. Please let me know any ideas.
 

·
Compression Ignition Addict
Joined
·
10,195 Posts
this (don't guess):
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,758 Posts
Some things with the low-pressure oil is if its a hardened piece of steel like needle bearing, could have gone through the original damaged gears and not gotten stuck and be left in there to recirculate through the pump a second time. That is a scary scenario that I don't know a good way to ensure you got everything out.

Could be the regulator, but IMO that is something to give people hope that they don't have to do more, but have never seen anyone post saying the regulator fixed it.

Even rarer could be a bad pickup tube in the pan, but that should cause your oil to be bubbly.

The oil pressure switch is only wired to display on or off in the dash and to give a light on the dash if the pressure is not detected. This low pressure on or off indication is not used by the PCM in anyway to run the engine so you could cut the wires and it would display a fault, but run the same.

You can get an oil pressure sensor or gauge to make sure there's pressure there during start up.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Some things with the low-pressure oil is if its a hardened piece of steel like needle bearing, could have gone through the original damaged gears and not gotten stuck and be left in there to recirculate through the pump a second time. That is a scary scenario that I don't know a good way to ensure you got everything out.

Could be the regulator, but IMO that is something to give people hope that they don't have to do more, but have never seen anyone post saying the regulator fixed it.

Even rarer could be a bad pickup tube in the pan, but that should cause your oil to be bubbly.

The oil pressure switch is only wired to display on or off in the dash and to give a light on the dash if the pressure is not detected. This low pressure on or off indication is not used by the PCM in anyway to run the engine so you could cut the wires and it would display a fault, but run the same.

You can get an oil pressure sensor or gauge to make sure there's pressure there during start up.
Spoke to my mechanic friend and he asked if it was building base oil pressure, so i took the cap off of the oil filter and jumped the starter for 20 seconds or so, NO oil. Now ive torn out the radiator, fan, and the harmonic balancer to get to the pump. took the front seal housing off and low and behold its Scarred up bigger than hell and i have one nice chunk of metal in one of the oil passages. At this point i don't have the tool to pull the wear ring off the crank so i cant even get the pump gears out to inspect them thoroughly. I did try to torch it and slip it off but didnt want to keep on and risk damaging the crank. Pretty fed up with it today so please let me know any other alternative methods besides the puller itself and ill try to do it in the morning.
Thanks
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
8,416 Posts
Put a small puller on the gear and let that force the wear ring off -- gonna replace all that anyways

I use a cold chisel on the ring -- not to cut thru, just to expand the ring -- couple of lines and that should open the ring enough

DO NOT cut thru the ring tho

Wait a minute - Brand new long block ?? -- why are you tearing into the engine? gonna mess the warranty
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,350 Posts
Plus 2 for using a dull chisel with any wear ring; crank, stub axle, whatever.

I'm guessing his Warren long block was not a dressed long block. So unless it's a lifter failure, it's a long row to hoe.

Automotive tire Automotive design Automotive exterior Rectangle Automotive wheel system
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Plus 2 for using a dull chisel with any wear ring; crank, stub axle, whatever.

I'm guessing his Warren long block was not a dressed long block. So unless it's a lifter failure, it's a long row to hoe.

View attachment 784445
exactly. using the lpop out of my old motor was probably a poor choice but im 40k into a 8k truck at this point. fml
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Put a small puller on the gear and let that force the wear ring off -- gonna replace all that anyways

I use a cold chisel on the ring -- not to cut thru, just to expand the ring -- couple of lines and that should open the ring enough

DO NOT cut thru the ring tho

Wait a minute - Brand new long block ?? -- why are you tearing into the engine? gonna mess the warranty
didnt come with anything else other than heads on it. lpop came from my old motor so now its my problem yay
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,350 Posts
A used LPOP gear set isn't a problem. I had light scaring from on mine and probably could have used them.

My comment was with a bare long block, the engine builder has an avenue to say while the engine was open, something got inside that was ingested by the pump. It's a valid counterpoint and could happen during the build-up or shipping if it wasn't in a closed container. We saw pictures of engines shipped open on a pallet without a wrap, and even coming loose early on from the "big boys."

If it's from a lifter coming apart, there is more emphasis on a failed component manufactured or installed poorly, a grounds for warranty.

Although, from my own experience, even a fully dressed long block can be an exercise in incompetence with at least six significant flaws, despite being supplied by someone (Ford) who you would expect to sell a well-made unit.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Hydro

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
8,416 Posts
Need to get in contact with Warren and figure how to proceed so you dont fully muff the warranty -- Need to find the actual point of failure, if on your side or on theirs , but get in contact before pulling the lifters

Your used oil pump should have not been a problem, but you have to verify -- look closely at the gear damage and try to identify "why"
Did you lube the pump when when you installed ? Needs that initial lube to make suction and so the sides of the gears do not gall

Also cleanliness is key when doing any engine work -- Checking any open passages for debris and for loose bolts or missing plugs

Yeah I have been on construction sites and seen the "mechanic" with the engine torn down on a dozer, right out in the dirt, more than once -- I suppose the dozer may have ran after he got the job done -- but at what cost
 
  • Like
Reactions: bismic
1 - 10 of 10 Posts
Top