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Discussion Starter #1
Drove 2004 Excursion (6.0L) to neighbor's house, stayed for about an hour, came out and it cranked slower than normal, and no start. DTC Codes are P0603, 0611, 0672, 1000. I recently had my FICM rebuilt to 58v, and the 0611 never went away. Thinking it has something to do with the 0672 and the Glow Plug Control Module? If it was just the plug or wiring was bad, it should still start? Help!?
 

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The P0611 is to be expected with a 58 volt FICM. Most places that do them have modified the way in which they are done to get rid of that code now.
The P1000 code is nothing to worry about either. That is just a drive-time related code where a self-test was not completed. The code will self clear once the engine runs long enough to complete that task.

Have you checked the condition of the batteries previous to/after your FICM replacement? Reason why I ask is that you also have a KAM (keep alive memory) code. Low voltage supply from the batteries can take out the FICM, and may have been the reason why you had to replace it.
The other code points to cylinder #2 glow plug circuit.
I think you have an electrical issue related to either the batteries or the alternator, where the alternator is draining the batteries.
Load test your batteries (auto parts do this for free) and replace the batteries as a set if either battery tests marginal or fails the test.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I replaced both batteries - brand new. Still slow crank, and no start! Where can I check for electrical problems. What would the 0672 be from?
 

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P0672 is a glowplug circuit code.
You can check to make sure all the plugs on the GPCM are fully seated, check the harness for chafing, give the harness a jiggle and see if it fires. TIf it was just one glowplug, the engine would fire, it would run like garbage, but it would fire.
 

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I replaced the batteries which were bad - still no start. Had it towed to a Ford Dealership:(. They tell me my starter is on its way out, and that my FICM is bad. (I did explain that I had it flashed 58v hence the 0611. They wanted $1500 for the work, so I towed it home.

I tested the FICM, and get 52v KOEO and about the same while cranking. Auto Enginuity says 56v. It just cant be the FICM? I checked everything I could for chaffing and couldn't find anything screaming at me. AE says Injection Control Pressure at 1275 - 2000. Desired is at 1360. IPR at 52. Also after about 7 or 8 secs of cranking my oil pressure gauge on the dash shoots half way up - HPOP is OK?

I checked all glow plug connections, fuses, fuel cut-off switch, oil level, ICP Sensor visually looks good - not oily. Secondary fuel reservoir fills when key is turned on. I'm at a loss.

Is there any way it could be the FICM - like the dealer says? Help!!
 

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What readings are you getting for FICM Logical Power and FICM Vehicle Power at KOEO during the glow plug cycle and when cranking? The batteries may be OK, but you might be losing too much power at startup. Plug the truck in and get the block warm. Then disable the the GPCM by disconnecting the power at the passenger side positive battery (will cause more codes) terminal and try to crank it. An electrical issue in the glow plug circuits might be robbing the necessary startup voltage required at the FICM.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
FICM Logical Power is 52v, FICM vehicle power is around 10.5v. I don't have and engine block heater, so I cycled the glow plugs several times to warm up, and then removed the positive lead to the GPCM, and no voltage difference, and no start. Sounds like FICM?
 

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FICM Logical Power is 52v, FICM vehicle power is around 10.5v. I don't have and engine block heater, so I cycled the glow plugs several times to warm up, and then removed the positive lead to the GPCM, and no voltage difference, and no start. Sounds like FICM?
FICM Logical power should be equal to battery power. You need to check that setting on your gauge. Your FICM Vehicle Power is very low. It too should be equal to battery power. All you did by cycling the glow plugs several times then removing the glow plug lead was extremely drain the batteries before trying to crank the truck. That is why there was no difference in the power you are reading. Charge the batteries 100%, remove the glow plug lead, then try to crank and get all three FICM voltage readings.

An FICM can still be bad even if the voltage readings are good. I had one short out on the logical side causing no start and rough running. Just something to keep in mind.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
had the batteries on a charger for the last hour - with a multimeter they read 12.6v. KOEO AE FICM vehicle power read 11.5. Disconnected GPCM positive lead then about 10.5 to 11 during cranking. After cranking the batteries read 12.3v on a multimeter. with and without the GPCM connected it really sounds like it wants to start. ???
 

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More Testing Results:
ICP Cranking psi = 1450; ICP volt = 1.72; IPR = 14.84; IPR cranking 68ish. I also performed the buzz test with AE and it cycled 3 times, and I heard all eight injectors click. I also removed the ICP sensor and tried to start - no luck. I am at a loss - any ideas??
 
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