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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
SLEPE67's '95 F-250 4x4 EC-

So, I just picked up a 95 Extended cab 4x4. This is my first diesel, and I have some crazy things going on. Looking for some advice on what to fix and in what order...

1) PO had auto trans rebuild. Warranty expired right before i bought it. It shifts 1 & 2 normally, hits 3rd & drags and goes straight to 4th, then on to OD normally. It has about 12K on the rebuild. It SLAMS into reverse. I need U Joints, so I'll ASSUME that'll fix that problem. Should the rebuilder honor his work, or am I SOL?

2) U JOINTS. This thing shakes like a dog crapping peach pits. I may have a lot of related issues, like worn tires, bad shocks, etc. When I am in Reverse and back up, I hear & feel a horrible grinding and crunching. I changed out the read diff fluid &inspected the gears. Everything looked OK, so I'll assume it's U JOINTs. Anything else i need to look for?

3) Fuel leaks. There's a puddle under the oil pan. Just replaced fuel filter. I'm looking at E Fuel Conversions. There seems to be a TON of ways to do it. Time is money to me (meaning: I dont have any money:rofl: nor do I have a lot of time to invest hunting for parts and Trial and Error). Anyone tried the CPR Fuel system on Dieselsite? I need a One Stop Shopping fuel system. I think $1400 is WAY too much, but everything I've read looks a bit research-intensive in regards to hunting around for parts & seeing what works, what doesnt. Thoughts?

4) When using turn signal indicator to go RIGHT, my RPMs go up about 250 RPM momentarily. When I have Cruise Control engaged, using the indicator to go RIGHT, it again bumps up 250 RPMs and kicks off Cruise Control. I've read this MIGHT be the 3d brake light (which is burned out)...

5) I've replaced every drop of fluid in this truck (minus D50 front diff).

6) WAIT TO START. Again, first diesel. WTS Light stays on for about 15 seconds prior to every start. Any flags here? Going to swap in the Stancor GPR, but, looking at all my issues above, can this wait?

7) Shocks appear to be original. Tires are on the last leg. Stock Air Filter is new, but plan on the 6637 Mod in the near future.

8) Have all components for cooling system overhaul: hoses, 205*F Thermostat, clutch fan (may do the 6.0 fan mod). The TEMP gauge reads on the first notch by C. From what I've read, this is OK. Definately need to install some aftermarket gauges.

9) Oil Pressure. Needle points to the "O" on NORMAL. Should I be nervous, again, Aftermarket gauges are coming.

10) Ammeter (Voltmeter). When I first start the truck, the needle is at around 10V. When I give it some throttle, it climbs. When driving, it's a 12V. Gauge, alternator, or quit worrying so much?

WHEW! That's about it for now!

Apolgies for the long thread. What do you think? What order should I work first?

Thanks in advance!
 

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Put a new bulb in the third brake light that can cause some of the issues. Also check the rear axle u joints for play and the carrier bearing. For the fuel leak there is 3 short rubber lines that go from the pump to the fuel bowl that are known to leak and o rings on the fuel bowl itself check them before spending the money on e fuel
 

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1) Fourth gear _is_ overdrive. What you're probably detecting is the torque converter locking up, either in third or fourth. If the tranny does need repair, it can't hurt to contact the rebuilder, see if they'll still honor the warrant, or perhaps split 50/50.

3) For the meanwhile, check the soft hoses coming out of the fuel pump. Cheap fix if that's the source of the leak.

4) See above - that's almost guaranteed to be a burned out brake light bulb, most likely the center one in the cab roof. The increased RPM is the torque converter unlocking. Gotta love Ford electrical systems and automatics...

6) WTS time and GPR time are separately programmed by the PCM, both based on EOT (engine oil temp). You might want to get a data reader on it to read EOT while underway. You can usually ignore the WTS light on a warm/hot engine.

9) Oil "gauge" is really an idiot light with a needle. The sender is actually a switch. Needle is either all the way left, when there's little/no oil pressure, or somewhere in the middle, when there's "sufficient" oil pressure. Ford didn't want clueless owners freaking out about a rapidly swinging gauge needle, evidently.

10) It's a voltmeter, not an ammeter. It'll always read low after a start, between several seconds and two minutes. That's the load of the glow plugs pulling the voltage down. Perfectly normal. The glow plugs are not just for starting the engine.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I just spent some time (before Hurricane Isaac gets silly) under the hood and found that the leak is coming from the Drain Valve. So, I ordered an O Ring kit from Dieselorings.com for the Drain Valve (Blue - Fluorosilicone) P/N: 6-002blue

I have a LOT to learn about diesels! Thansk for taking the time to explain all this. I've been burning up the SEARCH feature in here! Hopefully this will be more transparent when my Service Manual arrives.
 

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Lots of stuff has been said already so I'll only comment on #2.

Including popping noises? If you back straight up does the front of your truck hunch down and the tops of your tires move in like the front end has tons of Neg. Camber? Your sound while reversing may be coming from the front.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Lots of stuff has been said already so I'll only comment on #2.

Including popping noises? If you back straight up does the front of your truck hunch down and the tops of your tires move in like the front end has tons of Neg. Camber? Your sound while reversing may be coming from the front.
I honestly dont recall. Will have to check when the weather calms down.

If it did do that, is it just U Joints?
 

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No, it would be the axle pivot bearings in the engine support / cross member or worn ball joints. IIRC, with a F250 4x4 you should have a TTB front suspension. There are a lot of parts in that set up that wear out and drive guys on here mad. Most on here would tell you to up to the D60 solid front and not fix anything in the TTB. Money providing, of course.
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
No, it would be the axle pivot bearings in the engine support / cross member or worn ball joints. IIRC, with a F250 4x4 you should have a TTB front suspension. There are a lot of parts in that set up that ware out and drive guys on here mad. Most on here would tell you to up to the D60 solid front and not fix anything in the TTB. Money providing, of course.
It does have TTB. I would love to go SAS, but I think I'll put that on hold for a bit. (Not so much money, as time)

Coincidentally, I just read Gaspipies thread http://www.powerstroke.org/forum/94...on/233593-95-f250-4x4-bringing-back-dead.html and am using it as a guide on HOW TO for my rig. I have the same rig, except mine's an Auto and it's red.

Guess I'll go buy all the front end stuff as well! Thanks again.
 

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If you're thrifty and can score a Dana 60 from a dually you can use a combination of your parts on the dually 60 to make it fleet side again. The dually 60 is a fair amount cheaper. I think I have about 400 more into my front end that rebuilding everything. Most of my stuff cam from the junk yard though.
 

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^Agreed. And spending that $400 more now and dumping the TTB saved loads of money down the road. With the cost of a total rebuild through a shop (of course you could do it yourself and save a ton off labor rates) my local JY has the entire D60 with the steering and positioning arm for $1100. All you need is a trimmed front drive shaft, brake hoses at like $20 a side from a parts house, longer U-bolts (can be found cheap if you look hard enough), and tires. You have the tires. Swap it in in a couple hours once you have all the parts laid out.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
If you're thrifty and can score a Dana 60 from a dually you can use a combination of your parts on the dually 60 to make it fleet side again. The dually 60 is a fair amount cheaper. I think I have about 400 more into my front end that rebuilding everything. Most of my stuff cam from the junk yard though.
^Agreed. And spending that $400 more now and dumping the TTB saved loads of money down the road. With the cost of a total rebuild through a shop (of course you could do it yourself and save a ton off labor rates) my local JY has the entire D60 with the steering and positioning arm for $1100. All you need is a trimmed front drive shaft, brake hoses at like $20 a side from a parts house, longer U-bolts (can be found cheap if you look hard enough), and tires. You have the tires. Swap it in in a couple hours once you have all the parts laid out.
well, since you put it that way:D...I figured it would be pretty cheap to re-do the D50 -vs- install a whole different D60.

I just took my truck in to get the U Joints & Carrier Bearing installed. I'm short on time this week, and it needs it. $350 in labor alone.:doh: I cannot IMAGINE the cost of having somebody rebuild my D50, or install a whole "new" D60...

I guess it'll happen either way. Since I can swap over my new brake parts, and keep the orginal rear end (pending ring/pinion ratio) and wheels/tires, it seems like a no-brainer to do the D60.

I'm sure it's been asked a million times in here, but...can I use the stock leaf springs for the crossover? I REALLY need new front springs and was planning on ordering OEMs. I dont need/want to lift it much (otherthan to level it out). I do plan on adding rear add-a-leafs down the road for towing a race car trailer.

Thanks for the brutal honesty, I appreciate the input!
 

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Check rockauto.com for stock and aftermarket leafs. Prices are good but consider the shipping. Some complain that it's too much. I didn't have a problem with it. Personal choice.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Check rockauto.com for stock and aftermarket leafs. Prices are good but consider the shipping. Some complain that it's too much. I didn't have a problem with it. Personal choice.
Thanks for the link! I actually like the ease of use of thier catalog. Prices didnt seem too bad to me. Ya wanna play, ya gotta pay!
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Lots of stuff has been said already so I'll only comment on #2.

Including popping noises? If you back straight up does the front of your truck hunch down and the tops of your tires move in like the front end has tons of Neg. Camber? Your sound while reversing may be coming from the front.
Well, after installing all new U Joints I'll say it's safe to say that you are on to something. It sounds like I'm grinding rocks in reverse, most definately coming from the front end. Not real bad, but noticeable. The truck is a lot smoother going down the road, but has a 50MPH shimmy, which MAY be the crap tires I have on it... Instead of spending all that coin on the D50, I think finding a D60 may be the best way to go, especially with all the positive feedback I've been reading about that swap online.

Installed new lite bulbs all around the truck. 1) much brighter, 2) back up lights now work (WHEW- I was hoping that was all I needed to do there), and
the 3rd brake lite housing was burnt/melted. I looked it over real well, cleaned the contacts and plugged in the new bulb. My turn signal/cruise control -VS- RPM issues are resolved. My friends are eating Crow Pie right now...hahaha

New ful lines installed over the valley, new O-Rings are in the mail for the Fuel Bowl/Drain Valve rebuild. More to follow on all that.

Thanks for all the help!
 

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^dont forget to have that spare CPS for the glovebox
 

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Discussion Starter #17 (Edited)
Here's a small update.

As any PSD owner will testify: Fuel Leaks are driving me insane.
About 3000 miles ago, I swapped out my Fuel Bowl Filter, no issues.
Last week, I had a leak about the size of 2 dinner plates under my oil pan. I look in here for info and find http://www.powerstroke.org/forum/94...4929-diagnose-your-fuel-leak-read-4-info.html GREAT write up! Time to work.

Aft of the Fuel Bowl, just aft of the lift pump is saturated in fuel. OK, I can see the drip. It's the clamp. Get all new hoses & clamps.

Rebuilding transmission in wifes FJ Cruiser ($$$$) and then I'll install new tires and shocks.

:rod:





TO DO (Yeesh)
INTERIOR:
New seat foam
Gauges

ENGINE:
6637 air filter mod
3" downpipe
Delete Cat
CCV Delete
6.0 Fan Mod
Fan Clutch- HDN 2835 $168.55
Upper & Lower Radiator Hoses GAT 22158 (UPPER $23.99) & GAT 22216 (LOWER $46.99)
Thermostat-MCS 4252 $10.99
Stat Gasket- FEL 35610-1 $3.29
Water Pump
Radiator Cap- MCS 7038

DONE
Tires-General Grabber AT2's- Stock size
Shocks- KYB
Stereo (Kenwood deck, Kicker 6-1/2" in doors-required drilling of screw holes, Kicker 6x8" in back-direct bolt in)
All Exterior lite bulbs
Starter- USL 35154 $193.99
All fluids replaced
New front Brakes (hoses, calipers, pads, rotors)
Windshield
King Ranch Center Console
Rebuild Fuel Bowl and install all new Fuel Lines (thanks to guzzle @ DieselOrings)
Fuel Filter- WIX 33817 $41.99DANA 50
Axle Seals (X2) NAT 710413 $18.89
Wheel Seal- (X2) MPS 415960
3x Front Axle U Joints[/COLOR] (X3) PRE 331 $14.99 EA
Replace Camber Bushings w/ 2-way adjustable camber bushings
Wheel bearings:
WHL BRG (X2) BCA 382A $11.87 EA
WHL BRG (X2) BCA 387A $22.79 EA
WHL BRG SET (X1) BCA A38 $21.84
Clean/relube Warn Hubs
Inner& Outer Tie Rod Ends
Upper/Lower Ball Joints were good to go, so I left em. That, and they were welded in there with rust.
Nov 2013
Rebuild window regulator
Repair drivers side door latch
Jan 2014
Serpentine Belt- GAT K081189 $39.58


Well, that's about it for now. I'll post up pics when I'm proud of my work, until then...hahaha
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Just ordered all the O-rings & hoses for the valley Area.

Went through Guzzle's Dieselorings.com

I called him to ask what I needed (Saturday at 3:28PM Central). He was more than helpful and talked me through the process, as well as gave 7.3L advice regarding my fuel system.

Then, I placed my online order. Within 2 mintues, he called me back and told me I "may have ordered the wrong o-rings", steered me straight, and the he corrected it, recredited my card and got me what i needed.

WOW!!! TALK ABOUT CUSTOMER SERVICE!!!!

I'll recommend him VERY highly to anyone who has questions! Updates next weekend!
 

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Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
Dana 50 Re-Build

after burning up the Search Feature in here, and Google, I'm surprised there aren't more folks rebuilding Dana 50s. Now, I totally get that Dana 60s are the way to go. I will get to it eventually, but not yet...

I came upon this link from Dieselstop by cbuttre835 and would like to give him full credit for this. I jsut figured I'd post it in here for my future reference (I cant keep track of all this stuff, so I'll post it in here and modify as I go). Two pages of posts copy/pasted into one post. If anyone can use it, well here it is...

Dana 50 TTB rebuild complete.... - Diesel Forum - TheDieselStop.com

Readers Digest Version:

Pull front driveshaft
replace ujoints
remove hubs, spindles, knuckles, axle shafts, differential - replaced differential seals, spindle bearing seals, axle shaft seals, all 3 front axle ujoints, balljoints, replace camber bushings with 2-way ajdustable caster camber bushings, replace wheel bearings, and spindle needle bearings
- Disassemble the Warn lockouts and cleaned / decorroded / greased them.
- Replace spring eye bushings and shackle bushings
- Bilstiens
- Original tierods

I'll post DIY alignment tips when I find them.

bearings:

outer cone Timken LM104949 (small bearing)
outer race Timken LM104911 (these 2 can also be purchased as "SET38")
inner cone Timken 387A (large bearing)
inner race Timken 382A
Differential needle bearing (for right side stub shaft) Ford 3W1Z1225AA
Spindle needle bearings Ford D8TZ3123A (left and right side)
Spindle seal (L&R) Ford F2TZ1S175CA
Rolling Diaphragm Seal (axle shaft to back of spindle, L&R) Ford F81Z1S175HCA

(cbuttre835 had to get the parts chick to manually go through the stockroom to find the previous 2 - computer was wrong.

Left diff seal Ford E4TZ3254B
Right diff seal Ford E3TZ3254C
Driveshaft ujoints Spicer 5-1204X
Axle shaft ujoints Spicer 5-178X (same as rear driveshaft)
Upper balljoint Moog K80026
Lower balljoint Moog K8435
caster/camber sleeves Moog K8709 (these are cool)
Tierod end Moog ES3363T
Tierod end Moog ES3362L
if you get the Moogs (or equal) above, they're completely adjustable. can go up to +- 2.75 degrees camber, and +- 2.5 degrees caster (I think). you end up trading off a little of one for the other, but they come with a chart.
Center pivot bushing Daystar KFO3018
Spring and shackle bushing kit Daystar KFO2016

Cbuttre835s words (copy/pasted/modified):

As far as alignment - haven't set toe yet. level the truck beforehand, with bottle jacks.

What I did, is with the knuckles installed, no spindle - I put the truck on bottle jacks at the end of the axle, got 'em square with the truck (left/right), and stuck a magnetic angle finder (available at Lowes for nine bucks) to the spindle. I plumbed it (front - to - back) , read each side at 1.5 degrees out at the top (can't remember if that's positive or negative camber).

Then I turned the wheel each direction to cramp, and plumbed the angle finder and read the angle again (to help determine caster). Wrote all these down, had 6 readings. I wanted a little more in the left side to counter road crown, and by drawing a diagram you can tell how much more caster is in the left side than in the right. Very hard to explain for me here without being able to draw pictures. Once you see the bottom balljoint out in front of the upper one you'll understand though. I had to adjust the left sleeve a little (coat everything with neverseize and you can just loosen the top balljoint stud and turn the inner sleeve of the 2 part adjuster with big channellocks), once I got 'er dialed in I tightened it on down.
I took a piece of string with a weight tied on it (my keys) and looped it around the front of the upper balljoint stud, and let it hang down over the knuckle and hit the front of the bottom spindle mounting stud. I then read this angle as well with my angle finder, and it confirmed that the left had about 1/2 degree more caster than the right. I wouldn't call this number the actual caster, but, it's a solid reference since both sides are exactly the same.

The 1.5 degrees out-at-the-top with no tires and wheels looks plumb vertical once the tires and wheels are installed and bearing weight, too.


Link to Tire Rack for Alignment info:
Tire Tech Information - Alignment
 

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Discussion Starter #20
King Ranch center console INSTALLED. very easy.
Question: are those electrical connectors something the factory pre-wired for power seats?


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