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Discussion Starter #1
With this cooler weather coming, my truck has started to show the return of poor cold running. The truck starts just fine, but the idle will definitely have a lope to it. If I don't let the truck warm up for at least 5 minutes, there is a definite miss heard when driving down the road. It also shakes badly. Once it warms up, it's fine and has great power (albeit, I have noticed the MPG down a bit lately - even when babying it).

I'm leaning towards a bad injector. I've tested FICM, made sure that all fluids and filters are changed, and I ALWAYS run Stanadyne with every tank (and have for the last 20,000 miles). I do have a SES and it shows either a bad #2 glow plug or circuit. I do plan on changing the glow plugs along with the circuit wiring on both sides, but I don't think that's going to fix my problem.

Short of taking the truck to the dealer and getting raped for $100 for a diagnostic check, is there any other method a DIY owner can test for a bad fuel injector? I'm prepared to replace any that are bad, but would really like to find out which ones for less than Ford's diagnostic fee.

-Brian
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Did it make that much of a diff?
 

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Get a monitor, you need to be able to check your ficm voltage while driving. What were your ficm, numbers. Get your batteries load tested.

Sent from my phone that somebody didn't help me get.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Batteries are good; FICM is good (albeit it was tested with a meter, not a monitor). With weather staying cold each day, it's definitely going this every morning.
 

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My Truck had same symptoms. FICM checked fine with meter. Using torq app on my tab had 48v with key on not running and while cranking. Once started it droped to 27v. Had to let truck warm up for 15 to 30 minutes before it was driveable. I removed FICM split the case pulled power supply board and resoldered the the caps and resistors. Now truck runs perfect. Cost me 9.99 for a new tip for my soldering iron. FICM voltage never drops below 47v now. Whole project took 1.5 hours.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
My Truck had same symptoms. FICM checked fine with meter. Using torq app on my tab had 48v with key on not running and while cranking. Once started it droped to 27v. Had to let truck warm up for 15 to 30 minutes before it was driveable. I removed FICM split the case pulled power supply board and resoldered the the caps and resistors. Now truck runs perfect. Cost me 9.99 for a new tip for my soldering iron. FICM voltage never drops below 47v now. Whole project took 1.5 hours.
VERY interesting... I was unaware that we could measure FICM voltage with an app like Torque.

As for the fix; got any pics or specifics of what you did? I'm handy with a soldering iron. :)

-Brian
 
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