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Nice and shiny.

Both links work fro this computer.
 

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Discussion Starter #43 (Edited)
Man, this brand new ford radiator has less than 3000 miles and it already seeping at the seam. LOL. Got leaks around upper and lower hoses and the hoses at the degas bottle. Kinda got leaks everywhere. No puking at the bottle so I have no reason to suspect overpressure otherwise

Any ideas? Is this just how these radiators do? They seep at the seams?
 

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My original plastic OEM radiator would still be in my truck had I not broke the tiny plastic black nipple off and my repair to that with JB weld and a brass barbed connector not failed.

If you do think its over-pressurization, to me that points towards headgaskets or EGR going bad. Also points to a bad radiator cap that won't relive the pressure. It cost me $50 to buy the gauges, worm clamps, brass fittings and hose to make the tester.
 

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Discussion Starter #45
I have a BPD EGR cooler, with less than 10,000 miles, a brand new radiator cap, with less than 2,000 miles, and leaks across the entire top section of the radiator, the Y-Hose under the degas bottle, and along the base of the radiator.

How do you make a tester and how do you test it properly? The shop I had it at tested it with the chemical tester they cork into the degas bottle while it's idling. No evidence of exhaust in the coolant gasses according to that. They gave it a clean bill of health.
 

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Harbor freight has a coolant system tester that has a cap that has a pump attached to pressurize the system
 

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To pressure test the system, it is best to do it w/ the degas bottle cap on (IMO anyway). You can get a barbed tee and add a section of hose to the small hose from the radiator vent (to the degas bottle). Then you can add a schrader valve to the end of the new hose section and add compressed air to get it to 15 psig. With this, you can check the pressure w/ a tire gauge.
 

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I have a BPD EGR cooler, with less than 10,000 miles, a brand new radiator cap, with less than 2,000 miles, and leaks across the entire top section of the radiator, the Y-Hose under the degas bottle, and along the base of the radiator.

How do you make a tester and how do you test it properly? The shop I had it at tested it with the chemical tester they cork into the degas bottle while it's idling. No evidence of exhaust in the coolant gasses according to that. They gave it a clean bill of health.
Did you flush the system several times before installing the cooler? Did you add a coolant filter? Obviously the cooling system is getting over pressurized? Are you sure the EGR cooler is not plugged up? Keep us up on what you find.

When I flushed mine I found a lot of what looked like sand from the block casting. Took me about 4-5 flushes to get it all out. That was with the block plugs removed.
 

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To pressure test the system, it is best to do it w/ the degas bottle cap on (IMO anyway). You can get a barbed tee and add a section of hose to the small hose from the radiator vent (to the degas bottle). Then you can add a schrader valve to the end of the new hose section and add compressed air to get it to 15 psig. With this, you can check the pressure w/ a tire gauge.
I like this idea. I bought the Harbor freight for$80, so this would be cheaper. This method would also let you “hear” when the radiator cap vents, which should be close to 16 PSI. One of the spare caps I got for my car was a 20 PSI cap for a 16 PSI system, and I did not install it fearing to burst something in my radiator.

I would think the pressure test to do for a radiator that would be blowing would be to get a gauge teed in with a length of 3/8th inch heater hose, a couple of barbed 3/8 fittings. I would think there’s quite a bit of pressure building in a drive to blow a radiator, perhaps more than an be vented by the radiator cap.
 

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I am running a 20 psig cap, w/ a BPD radiator
 

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Discussion Starter #51 (Edited)
I will go ahead and build something to test.

What is the goal of my test? To see if the cap works? I ask because I would not expect one cap to fail and be followed by an additional brand new cap which also failed. I’m kinda fearing over pressure from head gaskets in hard pulls, but again, the shop test while i watched as the truck was idling and the chemical never changed or bubble from exhaust at idle. And if it is a big head gasket leak, there should be evidence all inside the degas bottle.

Am I thinking this through right??
 

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I am running a 20 psig cap, w/ a BPD radiator
Do you think the plastic OEM radiator with a 20 PSIG cap would be too much pressure and might cause the radiator to crack?

I also run the metal BPD radiator that I got when I leaned on the OEM radiator during repairs and broke plastic off the OEM radiator.
 

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I will go ahead and build something to test.

What is the goal of my test? To see if the cap works? I ask because I would not expect one cap to fail and be followed by an additional brand new cap which also failed. I’m kinda fearing over pressure from head gaskets in hard pulls, but again, the shop test while i watched as the truck was idling and the chemical never changed or bubble from exhaust at idle. And if it is a big head gasket leak, there should be evidence all inside the degas bottle.

Am I thinking this through right??
If you are wondering if pressure is building in the coolant system because of combustion gas (leaking head gaskets), you need to watch the pressure at the degas bottle. For the pressure information to mean anything, you FIRST need to know if there are any leaks in the coolant system.

If it doesn't build pressure because you have a leak somewhere, then what have you learned? Nothing.

Also, you can test the pressure at which the cap relieves.

As far as your statement in bold above ..... you are mistaken. You won't necessarily see an indication of a head gasket leak by looking in the degas bottle.

The chemical test is so unreliable it is a joke. Shouldn't waste your money on it.
 
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Do you think the plastic OEM radiator with a 20 PSIG cap would be too much pressure and might cause the radiator to crack?

I also run the metal BPD radiator that I got when I leaned on the OEM radiator during repairs and broke plastic off the OEM radiator.
I probably wouldn't go to the 20 psig cap w/ the OEM radiator because of its history of leaking at the seams.
 

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Discussion Starter #55
I will go ahead and build something to test.

What is the goal of my test? To see if the cap works? I ask because I would not expect one cap to fail and be followed by an additional brand new cap which also failed. I’m kinda fearing over pressure from head gaskets in hard pulls, but again, the shop test while i watched as the truck was idling and the chemical never changed or bubble from exhaust at idle. And if it is a big head gasket leak, there should be evidence all inside the degas bottle.

Am I thinking this through right??
If you are wondering if pressure is building in the coolant system because of combustion gas (leaking head gaskets), you need to watch the pressure at the degas bottle. For the pressure information to mean anything, you FIRST need to know if there are any leaks in the coolant system.

If it doesn't build pressure because you have a leak somewhere, then what have you learned? Nothing.

Also, you can test the pressure at which the cap relieves.

As far as your statement in bold above ..... you are mistaken. You won't necessarily see an indication of a head gasket leak by looking in the degas bottle.

The chemical test is so unreliable it is a joke. Shouldn't waste your money on it.
Great info! So if I pressurize the system to 15psi as per your procedure with the shrader valve, that is how I test for a leak in my cooling system? If so, what am I looking at? A decrease in pressure as it sits?
 

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Yeah, look for a decrease in pressure primarily. It should reliably hold 15 psig for hours. You can also look for signs of fluid leak (hoses, etc).

Once you know you are leak free, then you can vent the pressure, drive it until it gets fully warmed up, record the pressure, relieve the pressure (down to say 3-4 psig) when hot, and then drive some more with some hard accelerations.

You shouldn't see much pressure rise after venting the hot/pressurized degas bottle.
 
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Yeah, look for a decrease in pressure primarily. It should reliably hold 15 psig for hours. You can also look for signs of fluid leak (hoses, etc).



Once you know you are leak free, then you can vent the pressure, drive it until it gets fully warmed up, record the pressure, relieve the pressure (down to say 3-4 psig) when hot, and then drive some more with some hard accelerations.



You shouldn't see much pressure rise after venting the hot/pressurized degas bottle.
So would a head gasket also show up as a loss of pressure in the 15psi over night test?

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In my experience, no. 15 psig isn't enough pressure to leak "into" the cylinders. Cylinder pressure is quite high on a running engine - a lot easier for combustion gas to leak out.
 
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IME, For the 15 PSI test, if the leak is below the fluid level, it is easy to find. It will eventually drip out, but may take hours to be apparent. If its above the fluid line, which I think in the 6.0 is only the degas bottle, a bubble solution will show where the leak is at.
 

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Discussion Starter #60
I picked up a pressure test kit from Oreilly today. Cap tested out OK. It actually 'popped' around 20psi, but so did my brand new cap from Ford, so probably the tester is a little out of calibration. Anyway, the cap gives. I do have one leak at the plastic 'Y' connection under teh degas bottle.

I am going to go ahead and test it once I replace that, but I noticed after driving the truck hot a few days ago, that the degas bottle had a little vacuum on it from the previous drive. I would not imagine a degas bottle holding pressure OR vacuum for three days if there were any leaks or head gasket issues in the system. Thoughts?
 
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