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How's your water pump? The original water pumps are plastic and can eventually break /crack and begin slipping on the shaft. Alliant makes a stamped steel version that isn't too hard on the wallet compared to the BPD one.

Is it possible there are still bubbles in the cooling system after getting back on the road?

I had my coolant pigtail take a crap. The jacketing on the wires disintegrated and caused open/short circuit (whatever causes 300+ degree temps). I knew it was electrical or sensor related because oil temp did not follow suit, but I have a stock oil cooler.

Sent from my XT1650 using Tapatalk
 

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brazosdog02: you can do a bubble test. Do this when engine on working temperature:



I had up to 20psi in the system when hot (208°F and more ECT )




I checked and pressurized the EGR-cooler > everything was fine.








I checked and pressurized the oil-cooler > everything was fine and clean.






I checked the water pump > everything was fine. (installed the pump from BPD)

Solution: remove this f**cking EGR-cooler and throw it as far as possible. Installed EGR-delete and 7.3 fan clutch. My temps are now fine, no trouble with heat or pressure!!!

But: flush/reflush your cooling system several times and install a coolant filter ( I installed a inline filter, so 100% of the coolant is filtered). Clean the filter at every oil change, engine is running like a young deere

Regards from Merkel Germany
 

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Sensors checked out ok cold soaked. ECT EOT TRANS all within 1 degree. Trans was a couple of degrees higher but plenty close.

Towing now, just hit 240 ECT.....again....out of the blue....staying at 205-215 all day until it just up and spikes. EOT seems to follow ECT relatively. I have a BPD external oil cooler.

The truck alerted me to the temperature this time though. Dash beeped. Never seen that.
If the coolant is really that hot, you should also see it in the transmission fluid temp. Did you look at that when you saw 240* coolant?
 

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deleted - double post!
 

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Discussion Starter #26 (Edited)
I’ll check more but I don’t see any change in trans temp at all.

I’m driving now and it’s doing a bit different. Cruising along at 200....spike at 235....fans come on then it settles and drives for a while at 175-180. Slowly goes back to 200-210.....and then out of the blue another spike. No change in speed, elevation or anything. I gotta get this piece of crap mishimoto out of my truck ASAP.

Oil cooler is BPD air to oil heavy duty.

Is this spiking related to EGR stuff dumping back in or something ?

Wash rinse repeat.

I can then drive 300 miles with no issue. Kinda acts like an air bubble.
 

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Discussion Starter #27
Someone help me out with my logic:

How is this radiator not able to 'cool' under normal towing conditions? When the temperature his 220 or higher, the fan comes on and presumably the thermostat opens because the temperature then begins to drop all the way to 180 degrees. Isn't this an indication that the radiator CAN IN FACT cool if it has enough flow from the thermostat?
 

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If it is dropping to 180°, that points to you thermostat. It shouldn't get below 192°ish after it's up to temp.

I would also buy least do the blue wire mod to be able to manually override the fan clutch when it's getting that hot
 

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I'm set up similar to you and this is what I consider normal:

I have the BPD air cooled cooler and when I had the 6.0 fan clutch, at 100° air temp, towing flat and level towing 11k, I saw 205°-210° ECT with EOT at around 215°-220°. Taking the same load up the hill, I see 220° ECT and the fan will kick on and bring it down to 210°ECT Wheras the oil will be 234° EOT dropping to 220° EOT once the fan kicks on. No "Spiking" but it will take up to a minute for the ECT and EOT to rise once I start the hill, and about 30 seconds to cool down once the fan kicks on.
 

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Discussion Starter #30 (Edited)
If it is dropping to 180°, that points to you thermostat. It shouldn't get below 192°ish after it's up to temp.

I would also buy least do the blue wire mod to be able to manually override the fan clutch when it's getting that hot
Hmm not sure I agree....for the sake of argument. The thermostat would be full open to cool the motor and with the fans the temp should dive. It doesn’t STAY at 180...it just goes down to it. Once everything stabilized again we sit at 208-215 towing.

Is this incorrect?

I’m concerned with the rapid and more than occasional spike in temp going from 210 to 235 in less than 5 seconds. WTF can even do that? Think the OEM Tstat less than 1 year old is the problem ? I can drive 150 miles with no issue and then boom ... spike.
 

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If it is dropping to 180°, that points to you thermostat. It shouldn't get below 192°ish after it's up to temp.

I would also buy least do the blue wire mod to be able to manually override the fan clutch when it's getting that hot
Hmm not sure I agree....for the sake of argument. The thermostat would be full open to cool the motor and with the fans the temp should dive. It doesn’t STAY at 180...it just goes down to it. Once everything stabilized again we sit at 208-215 towing.

Is this incorrect?

I’m concerned with the rapid and more than occasional spike in temp going from 210 to 235 in less than 5 seconds. WTF can even do that? Think the OEM Tstat less than 1 year old is the problem ? I can drive 150 miles with no issue and then boom ... spike.

Scroll down to the part where it talks about how to tell if your tstat is bad


https://www.carbibles.com/car-thermostat/
 

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Without a thermostat, the coolant does not follow the intended path thru the block and heads -- the thermostat not only controls temperature, it also controls coolant flow path

Thermostats are never really fully open or closed(except when cold), mostly they are somewhere between
 

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Discussion Starter #34
I have never run without a thermostat and for the cost of a new one, I'm not willing to test it out. I think I can save a lot of trouble here by getting a new thermostat and putting a brand new OEM radiator in. The OEM tstat is less than 1 year old. There are a few things on this truck that OEM is not quite as good as aftermarket, but the majority of it, the Ford Engineers got right. My extensive reading here and elsewhere has lead me to see that the OEM radiator is superior to any aftermarket in pretty much every single category except for the end tanks, and mine didn't leak for 150,000 miles. Mishi is refunding my money anyway and its just not worth the risk to test out the Chinese built "Performance Radiator". I contacted them a week ago, and they have not responded at all so that tells me that I won't be getting any support from them if it doesn't work. Plus, there is no guarantee it will even arrive in decent condition and I am not paying BPD twice the price for them to put it in a fancy box.
 

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Discussion Starter #36 (Edited)
Just thought I would post that I was trying to get the serial number of the radiator and I cannot see it. The sides of the radiator, which used to be perfectly vertical are BOWED out about 1” on each side. Not even sure if I can get it back out.

Dude. What in the holy crap? I don't know how you build that much pressure and don't pop a cap or explode a degas bottle, but this must be why the lower hose blew. There must be some sort of crap in the radiator or slag or something that allowed it to build, balloon the radiator and not explode it.
 

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Discussion Starter #38 (Edited)
Here is my temperature log from today. About a 3 hour trip, flat road, 95 degree ambient on average, unloaded. Look at the temperature swings. What do you make of this? Also, note the time spent near the end of the trip in the 170's.

Unloaded

Same Chart with Additional Sensors

TOWING 6,000 Travel Trailer, 95-100 degrees ambient, mostly flat terrain.

Towing

Same Chart with Additional Sensors

The last portion of the "Towing" must have been when I was idling. Still, not a temperature I expect. Also, not sure about the "0" in there, but its only one, so It's probably a glitch in Torque or something.

All sensors seem to track with coolant temps. Don't worry about the EOT Delta, its BPD Oil Cooler.
 

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