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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Im towing my 5k lb travel trailer, had this problem before and she puked. So, based on a lot of testing, I personally replaced the EGR Cooler, Oil cooler, FICM....did a bunch of stuff totalling close to 8,000 bucks. New turbo too because it was stuck.

Today, travelling across FLAT PLAINS, 65-70 mph, up a SLIGHT grade, she hit 235 degrees. I just put a new Mishimoto radiator in it because the factory one failed. Its the OLD mishimoto, which no one bothered to tell me. Anyway, it sucks. It was 102 degrees, and temps rolling down the road ranged from 210-235. Fan clutch screamed a lot of the way. I think it puked on that one grade when the temp got to 235 and the turbo hit 28psi. Anyway, i don't have any issue with exhaust in coolant, so I have no reason to suspect heads. But she did burp some coolant out the cap and the coolant level is well under the min mark so that's not great. Degas bottle is fine. Cap has been replaced already. Coolant is ELC.

ALL BPD Parts otherwise.

Am I going to have to eat another 300 bucks to get the BIGGER mishimoto cooler to haul this trailer?

I feel like I have anxiety attacks driving the truck anywhere....

There is no physical way the system can puke unless its getting exhaust in the system from the heads, but I have no other issues that point to that, so I'm kinda lost. 165,000 miles.

What do I need to do?
 

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if i may...
scrap the mishi and get a new stock or other aluminum replacement.
the mishi quality is great but the design stinks.
i would advise doing a pressure test on the cooling system as well
 
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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Mishi ship has sailed. If they will at least stand behind this product, I'll hang on to it. I don't tow that much, but when I do, It needs to cool.

How do you pressure test the coolant system?

I'll try it, but she has about 2000 miles and 100+ degree days of hard work ahead of her before she gets it. LOL.
 

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Possible thermostat failure, that 235 seems a bit toasty -- the T stat not only controls temperature, but also the path the coolant takes thru the engine

Assume the AC condenser and charge air cooler fins are clear of bugs and dirt?

also if for whatever reason, the EGR decides to open(or is not properly closing) the added heat in the cooling will cause a steam bubble in the EGR cooler -- at high turbo pressures there is a lot of force against the EGR valve

Run the degas bottle level at least a half inch to a full inch below the low line
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Yes, fins are clean as a whistle. I have a heavy duty BPD Oil Cooler, too. Those temps seemed fine. LOL.

I was actually kinda surprised (and sad) that a new Mishi radiator (old one was leaking at the crimps) and a thermostat that is less than 1 year old (OEM) wouldn't keep my ECT at or below 210 when towing less than 5000 lbs and cruising no faster than 70mph on flat ground. She spent her entire day between 210 and 220, I know it was 102 out on the road, but still. **Shrug**

I may have to just keep an eye on temps and keep speeds at 65 or slower to manage temps until Mishi gets back with me.
 

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I've been through the whole mishi shenanigans. Started with the old unit (thinner). Couldn't control temps when towing. I warrantied out the radiator to the newer thicker model... Same problem. I didn't want to believe it was the radiator so when the new bigger mishi rad went in so did a new coolant bottle, Degas cap, thermostat, and water pump, but it didn't change anything. I eventually replaced the mishi rad with a rad from performance radiator (same as rad from BPD). My overheating issues went away.

I personally think the mishi is running coolant too fast through the rad and not allowing enough time to dissipate heat. Multiple people have had the same issue with the mishi rads.

Sent from my XT1650 using Tapatalk
 

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Read the post by 5J on "head gaskets". It may give you some info that may help. You need to tee in a pressure gauge to see what's going on with pressures. Also check your temp deltas between ECT & EOT.
See below.





Head Gaskets are blown by either overheating or excessive cylinder pressure.
Overheating will burn the sealer on the gaskets and they will eventually fail.
Excessive cylinder pressure Will Lift stock bolts and push through the gaskets.
If the pressure is enough it will push through the sealer even with studs and burn the sealer.
It may not Puke the first time it does but the damage is done.
Anything that will Increase cylinder pressure will increase the chance of Failure.
The 6.0 just Doesn't have enough bolts around the Holes
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Hmmm....upper radiator hose was completely FLAT this morning. Cracked degas cap and it opened. LOL.

That can't be great.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Were cruising right now and the temperature variation is mind blowing. Flat ground. 95 degrees outside. 65 mph with 5,000 lbs of trailer.

One second I’m at 210, 3 seconds later I’m at 232 coolant temps. Fans screams and it slowly comes back down. It may even go back to 192.

Oil temps are within 2 degrees of coolant. I have a bpd cooler.

What the hell is going on????
 

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Temp sensor could be going out and producing false readings. Have you pulled temps for ECT/EOT cold soaked overnight?
 

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Hmmm....upper radiator hose was completely FLAT this morning. Cracked degas cap and it opened. LOL.

That can't be great.
Need to replace that cap, should let in air as the system cools with no restriction
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
Lower radiator hose just split WIDE open. Stranded on I-10 with a family of 4 and my RV.

F—-.

ECT was 196 when it happened. Don’t understand that. Maybe running 10psi boost at the time.

Any thoughts on this??? She was running good!
 

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Lower radiator hose just split WIDE open. Stranded on I-10 with a family of 4 and my RV.

F—-.

ECT was 196 when it happened. Don’t understand that. Maybe running 10psi boost at the time.

Any thoughts on this??? She was running good!
First off, I’m sorry to hear you’re having trouble because that’s stressful and nobody needs that in their life.

Second, if hoses were old, I wouldn’t be surprised with the mileage you have. With excessive temperatures I would check what you have above. First cold soak truck make sure EOT and ECT are within 1-2 degrees of each other. If not, replace ECT sensor. If that checks out good, I would suspect stuck thermostat not allowing full coolant flow through the block. If that checks good, I would then get stock radiator. In my experience from reading the threads, the stock radiator is far more efficient than the Moshimoto radiator. Which is also why I haven’t purchased one. I would go back to stock radiator and get a stock thermostat just for the heck of it because they’re only $30. Probably replace top hose while you’re at it. If you’re worried about temps while towing especially, I would seriously consider the 7.3 fan clutch mod because I just did it, recorded temps, and they are much more favorable towing or not.
 

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Lower radiator hose just split WIDE open. Stranded on I-10 with a family of 4 and my RV.

F—-.

ECT was 196 when it happened. Don’t understand that. Maybe running 10psi boost at the time.

Any thoughts on this??? She was running good!
Where you at on the I-10? Did you get it put back together?
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Were back up and running. Thanks for the concern and we’ll wishes! No time to get OEM parts but the shop got me running without much delay. I’ll tidy up the job and maybe put OEM lower hose in when I get back.

Otherwise, the hose appears to have just been old. I checked it by feel before we left and thought it was ok. I was wrong.

I’ll check cold soaked sensors in the morning. Thermostat IS OEM and Ian less than a year old. Cap is a bit older and I can get a new one if I need to. Upper hose is brand new OEM.

I have some super weird behavior in terms of cooling. Had a few times today towing where the ECT dropped to 180 and hovered a little below for a while and then shot up to 195 and settled at 208.4 for a while. That’s bizarre. Then I got to 234 for a bit for no apparent reason. I didn’t think it was even possible for these to happen with 100 degree weather. Anyway not sure if radiator or not but it’s weird. The 176 temp is highly unusual while towing with a subpar radiator in 100 degree weather but it sat there for a solid 5 mins or so. I don’t understand that.

I’ll check sensors in the am when they are all cold.
 

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Have you verified that the EOT sensor is plugged in? It’s easy to miss when fixing stuff in a rush. But, I’ve had an issue with fluctuating readings in the past when the EOT sensor was not fully seated. It’s next to the fuel bowl.
 

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Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
Sensors checked out ok cold soaked. ECT EOT TRANS all within 1 degree. Trans was a couple of degrees higher but plenty close.

Towing now, just hit 240 ECT.....again....out of the blue....staying at 205-215 all day until it just up and spikes. EOT seems to follow ECT relatively. I have a BPD external oil cooler.

The truck alerted me to the temperature this time though. Dash beeped. Never seen that.
 

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Can you measure ECT voltage or EOT voltage? The voltages should go up and down with the temps. If not, a sensor pigtail or wiring is bad. If the temperature is always within a couple degrees, I suspect this. If the voltage is steady, the PCM makes up a reading that is pretty close to either the ECT or EOT, so the temperature can lie, but the voltage is honest. Spiking quickly makes me think an intermittent EOT / ECT sensor, as others have said. These do cost about $50 each. The ECT and EOT are the same part number, so you can swap those out without buying one.

What type of BPD cooler do you have? I have the Air Cooled and the temps are hardly ever within a degree or two of each other. The remote cooler should also not stay within a degree or two.

For puking coolant, I built myself a Tee-Gauge out of a few bronze 3/8" barbed adapters, worm clamps, and 0 to 30 PSI pressure gauge. Getting to 16 PSI would point to headgaskets or EGR cooler.
 
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