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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I have a few questions before I spend some money on my truck.

My EGR cooler and Oil cooler are starting to go out, also when its cold outside and I start my truck I get two injector codes sometimes and some times cylinder contribution faults.

1. I am getting ready to order an EGR delete and oil cooler kit from RCD. Before I do this I thought I would check my coolant system pressure, and driving, the pressure ranges from 7 to about 11 PSI...If I really gouge it I can get it to 12 PSI...from what I have read this a little bit on the high side...But could a failing EGR cooler and Oil cooler cause my pressure to be higher than normal? Or is there a good chance my HG's are going too?

2. I am assuming the cylinder contribution faults when it is cold outside could be due to the injector problems, is this correct?

3. Should I just replace the two injectors that have thrown codes? I tried the rev-X additive already...

4. Is there anything else I should do, while I am replacing the two injectors and the EGR Delete and new Oil Cooler?

My truck has 160,00 mostly highway miles, and had new HGs, oil cooler, and egr cooler installed by dealer at about 40,000 miles.

Any advice will be very greatly appreciated...I can't really afford to pay to have the work done, so I will be doing it all myself with the help of a mechanically inclined friend of mine.

Thanks,

Tim
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Bump for some help quickly... Please
 

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As to the two injectors try Rev X.

But as to the 7-11psi. Anything over 16 is too much
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Dave,

Thanks for the reply man...I tried Rev-X for two oil changes, and it didn't help.

I know the cap vents at 16psi, but I read somewhere on here that the normal coolant pressure should be 4 to 6psi.
I wonder if the EGR cooler and failing Oil cooler could increase coolant pressure at the degas bottle?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Mid-day bump
 

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Dave,

Thanks for the reply man...I tried Rev-X for two oil changes, and it didn't help.

I know the cap vents at 16psi, but I read somewhere on here that the normal coolant pressure should be 4 to 6psi.
I wonder if the EGR cooler and failing Oil cooler could increase coolant pressure at the degas bottle?
I suspect that you may have read the thread about Evans NPG+ coolant?
That 4-6 psi number was mentioned in that thread, but was in reference to what the waterpump would produce to induce flow (even with a hole drilled into the degas bottle cap).

I don't think 11 psi is anything to be concerned about. If it isn't using coolant, puking coolant out of the bottle or emitting white smoke, your good to go.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks NYC. Have noticed no white smoke yet, but I know oil cooler is shot because ect and eot run as much as a 30 degree delta.

I I have noticed a very small amount of of coolant loss, like a little below the low mark and I filled it back to half between low and full 3 months ago, and haven't seen it lose any yet, could be a very minor leak developing

Tim
 

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Thanks NYC. Have noticed no white smoke yet, but I know oil cooler is shot because ect and eot run as much as a 30 degree delta.

I I have noticed a very small amount of of coolant loss, like a little below the low mark and I filled it back to half between low and full 3 months ago, and haven't seen it lose any yet, could be a very minor leak developing

Tim

by low and full do you mean the low and full on the side of the bottle or on the sticker.

The full mark is the min mark on the bottle.
 

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If you do the injectors this is also a good time for stand pipes, dummy plugs,STC update fitting. Your fuel pressure may be getting a little low with time so to protect those new injectors up dating the fuel presure regulator spring is a good idea. With 160K on the clock now might be a good time to clean the turbo and update the drain tube. You might have got lucky when the dealer did the heads,if they did the stand pipes and dummy plugs.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
3 Months ago? What are you waiting for? :crazy:
NYC, I know man...I just got married, and finally the my better half through college...so many has been a little tight. I am just now at a point where I can afford to do it.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
by low and full do you mean the low and full on the side of the bottle or on the sticker.

The full mark is the min mark on the bottle.
I mean the low and full sticker on the degas bottle...I see no signs of puking and never have heard the infamous "Tea Kettle" sound
 

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Discussion Starter #13
If you do the injectors this is also a good time for stand pipes, dummy plugs,STC update fitting. Your fuel pressure may be getting a little low with time so to protect those new injectors up dating the fuel presure regulator spring is a good idea. With 160K on the clock now might be a good time to clean the turbo and update the drain tube. You might have got lucky when the dealer did the heads,if they did the stand pipes and dummy plugs.
Ham,

Thanks, but I am gonna show my ignorance and ask exactly what the following things are?

1. what are the stand pipes and how much will they be?
2. Whate are Dummy Plugs and a round about price?
3. plan to clean the turbo, but am not sure about updating the drain tube and a price?
4. where does the fuel pressure spring go and rough price?

Where can I buy this stuff? Are there any special tools required for these things mentioned? If I can afford to do all these other things, how much more time will this stuff add to the job roughly?

Sorry for all the questions...It's just that I have to have everything ready when I tear into it, because I do not have a spare vehicle, so it all has to be done in a few days.


And THANKS TO ALL FOR THE HELP THUS FAR :thumb:
This forum has always been a great source of info...and everyone has always been super helpful.
 
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1. what are the stand pipes and how much will they be?
Stand pipes are what brings oil up to your oil rails from the branch tubes. Part number6E7Z-9A332-B
Tools needed 10mm and 12mm Allen head sockets and T30 torx bits if you want/need to remove the oil rails to get the branch tubes out

2. Whate are Dummy Plugs and a round about price?
The wonderful engineers that designed this engine decided to cut costs and instead of producing left only and right only oil rails they were going to machine them identically and in order for oil to stay in the rail to fire the injectors they machined 2 holes 1 for the branch tube and another to plug. the dummy plugs are called this because they look like stand pipes.

3. plan to clean the turbo, but am not sure about updating the drain tube and a price?
Thats entirely up to you highly suggested. You own tools? if not go flag down a snap on truck. youll thank me later.

4. where does the fuel pressure spring go and rough price?
In the fuel pressure regulator

Where can I buy this stuff? Are there any special tools required for these things mentioned? If I can afford to do all these other things, how much more time will this stuff add to the job roughly?
Tools-snap on.
Parts-Local ford dealer.
Your first 6.0 make a weekend out of it. Especially if its your only means of transportation. If you have any troubles when you perform these tasks dont be shy we're all here to help
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Powerstroke Tech,

Thanks for all of that information...I do own a lot of tools, I was referring more to any specialty tools.
I am a maintenance guy at an industrial facility, so I am fairly decent with a wrench. I was just afraid I may need some job-specific tools.

Thanks again for all the info.

Is there any tips or do's and don'ts about installing/removing all of this stuff.

Thanks again

TIM
 

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1. what are the stand pipes and how much will they be?
2. Whate are Dummy Plugs and a round about price?
3. plan to clean the turbo, but am not sure about updating the drain tube and a price?
4. where does the fuel pressure spring go and rough price?
1 and 2: Dummy plugs and standpipes, as a kit <CLICK> $102.00 (2nd item down on that page)

3: Updated turbo oil supply and drain lines. <CLICK> $97.86 for both

4: Where it goes, and how to do it with pics. <CLICK>
Where to buy it and how much it costs <CLICK> $51.70
 

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If you remove the turbo I highly recommend spending $7.44 ( I PAID $11 locally) on a turbo hardware kit p/n 3C3Z-9T514-AG. This has new bolts o-rings and gasket for turbo.

New STC fitting 4C3Z-9B246-F $58.25 at local dealer in Wichita KS

If you do the STC fitting you will need a 15/16 crows foot to set the torque on it. This seams to be a rare size as some sets skip right over it. You may be able to get one for $30 or so locally, but I just cut off an old wrench and welded a socket to it.

CHECK OUT THESE LINKS FOR MORE INFO.

DTS Articles - Turbocharger Reconditioning

DTS Articles - 6.0L ICP System Leaks

DTS Articles - New High Pressure Oil Connector

http://www.powerstroke.org/forum/ge...aned-turbo-welded-egr-cooler-closed-pics.html
 

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As far as the injectors go, check the FICM for voltage and make sure you have high enough fuel presure. I forget the pressure and voltage values but somebody will surely chime in with them. Fuel presure should be less than 75 and more than 62-ish. FICM is 48 volts at KOEO, and should not fall much below that while cranking. Best I can do for you on that one.

Also make sure the HFCM (fuel pump) is pumping fuel to the pressure regulator. I had an HFCM heading south that caused the same error on three injectors. Replaced them and still ran poorly. Scan again and all eight injectors showed low injector pressure and contribution/balance faults. All caused by failing HFCM. Replaced it and all was well. Probably replaced three good injectors, which ain't cheap, and replacing parts that aren't broke is just adding insult to injury.

Good luck, these 6.0's can gobble up cash faster than PacMan gobbles dots.
 

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Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
To all...I thank you all so very much for lending me your knowledge.

I know where to check the fueld pressure, I think it is right there beside the fuel pressure spring housing correct...Where can I get what i need to check it?

Where is the easiest location to check FICM voltage?

Keep on with any advice/tips.

You guys are awesome...I love this site...great people.

Fuel filter and water seperator have been changed at 15,000 to 20,000 mile intervals for sure at least since the truck hit 40,000miles, when my dad bought it, then I bought it from him at 85,000, and I have kept them changed too...so maybe its not the injectors? runs fine except during the winter on cold starts, she bucks a bit and sometimes throws two cylinder contribution faults...only when started cold...never when engine is warm, and never when the air temp is above about 45 degrees? thoughts?
 

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The adapter you will need to monitor fuel pressure. $8.00 <CLICK>

To properly check your FICM requires a few steps before actually checking it with a multi-meter. Doing all the steps will give you the best possible result.
First, remove the batteries and run them down to the parts store and have them load tested. If they test marginal or fail replace them as a set.
Next, place them on a battery charger and get them up to 100% charge. Before you put them back in the truck, clean the connections and check the condition of the cables. You might even consider giving them a shot of that anti-corrosion spray.
Now, dust off the old multi-meter and pop the hood. CLICK HERE for directions on how to check the FICM voltage.

You say you tried the REV-X already, but what oil are you running?

If you had head gaskets done 50,000 miles ago, the dummy plugs and stand pipes should have been replaced at that same time as part of the repair.
 
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