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I have an 07 with a 6.0. I have 120k original miles, truck has been solid for years. A few months ago probably late fall, i starting smelling coolant. Under the hood there was some sign of it on the hood and on the shroud. It was about a gallon low. No puddles in driveway. I took it to the shop, they pressure tested, we put dye in, cant find leak. Over the winter it hasnt lost coolant. Havent smelled it. Not daily driven. Pulled my 10k lb. Camper this weekend and on return today smelled coolant again. Level not down much but strong smell. Took it straight to shop and still not sign of leak. I'm baffled as to where it's going
Any ideas?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
What is the general school of thought on replacing the EGR cooler and oil cooler. Or doing a bullet proof to the truck? I realize there is a cost difference but what have people found to be the pros and cons of each ?
 

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I would recommend that you first get some temperature readings for coolant and oil after the engine is fully warm. Get it on the highway and post your temperatures. That way you (we) can tell if you even need a new oil cooler.

Also, let us know what coolant you are running. As far as the EGR cooler, the 04.5's and up have a weak one and it is highly recommended to go with an EGR cooler from BulletProofDiesel.

As far as bullet proofing goes, there really isn't a specific way to do that. It means different things to different people.
 

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If you plan on heavy towing, tuning, or have a heavy foot I would recommend saving up the money to bullet proof. If you have another vehicle you can wait until you have head gasket issues to do the job but the risk with that is you could warp one or both heads and risk having to replace those as well because if it is bad enough they won’t be able to machine them flat enough without removing to much material. I know people that have factory head bolts and dog there trucks with no issues but I also know people that have had issues so if it were me I would probably just save up the money to do the job, keep it in the bank and wait to see what happens but only because I have another car to drive if it happens. I think the only con to doing a bullet proof job would be the cost.
 

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If you plan on heavy towing, tuning, or have a heavy foot I would recommend saving up the money to bullet proof.
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The term BulletProof has no specific meaning. What the OP would need is a list of upgrades and modifications to improve reliability. That list would have meaning. Bulletproofing - no meaning.

I do agree that the factory 04.5-07 EGR coolers are weak. They need to be replaced with an EGR cooler from BulletProofDiesel.

I can even accept that head studs are an improvement, but more important than the studs is a true block deck as well as heads, AND the proper surface prep on both. I would even add o-ringed heads to that list (either new ones or straight/true/non-cracked used ones that have the o-rings properly machined in.

Then you have to have a fuel pressure gauge to make sure that the injectors are not jeopardized by low pressure.

Then the FICM needs to be upgraded. Possibly a higher amp alternator is needed as part of the FICM reliability upgrade.

Dummy plugs and standpipes need to be upgraded as the original ones were not reliable.

Then maybe the integral fuel pump relay needs to be replaced/fixed (it is integral to the Central Junction Box).

Then you need EC-1 rated ELC coolant and a totally clean coolant system (including an oil cooler that has no debris contamination). Some say that you need a remote located OEM oil cooler or an air/oil oil cooler, and it would be extremely nice......but I am one to believe that reliability is very possible with a meticulously maintained original oil cooling system. No doubt opinions vary on that subject!

Proper oil and ALWAYS use OEM oil and fuel filters.

Also, maybe the plastic "Y" under the degas bottle needs to be upgraded to metal.

Of course the quality of work is critically important as well.

etc.

Now maybe that is getting close to a list that means something for an 07.
 

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You’re the only person I’ve ever head say that bullet proofing has no meaning... why do you say that. To me bullet proofing has been defined by a 6.0. Which by my definition would include head studs, which would also include decking/replacing heads with o-rings, coolant filtration, upgraded/repaired FICM, blue spring kit which would include a way to check pressure, and an egr delete/upgrade. Correct me if I’m wrong please.
 

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You’re the only person I’ve ever head say that bullet proofing has no meaning... why do you say that. To me bullet proofing has been defined by a 6.0. Which by my definition would include head studs, which would also include decking/replacing heads with o-rings, coolant filtration, upgraded/repaired FICM, blue spring kit which would include a way to check pressure, and an egr delete/upgrade. Correct me if I’m wrong please.
Remote oil cooler? Updated stand pipes? There's a lot of "stuff" that can be upgraded or bullet proofed, some needed, some not.
The point is, the definition of bullet proof is not defined as a complete "kit".

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You’re the only person I’ve ever head say that bullet proofing has no meaning... why do you say that. To me bullet proofing has been defined by a 6.0. Which by my definition would include head studs, which would also include decking/replacing heads with o-rings, coolant filtration, upgraded/repaired FICM, blue spring kit which would include a way to check pressure, and an egr delete/upgrade. Correct me if I’m wrong please.
Only person? ..... by no means! It has been pointed out multiple times on multiple forums that there is no specific meaning for "bulletproofing a 6.0L". Usually posted by LONG TIME forum members that have quite a bit of experience.

Again - it means different things to different people, therefore it is not a specific thing to communicate, even if it is specific in your own mind.

After all, the people from BulletProofDiesel (who most likely started that phrase) are going to insist that you can't have a Bullet Proof 6.0L without their (good quality stuff) air-to-oil oil cooler, or at least their "remote" oil cooler (along with their FICM and their water pump, etc).
 
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