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Discussion Starter #1
So I've read quite a bit of controversy about flushing the coolant without replacing oil cooler and whether it clogs it or not. Here's my situation, bought the truck a few months ago, the oil cooler was replaced roughly 8k miles ago along with a coolant flush and what was thought to be a elc swap, but after I called the tech that did the work, I found he used the low-silicate fleetcharge from oreillys.

Here's my question, I am getting a coolant filter to put on and am wondering if I should put it on first, then flush and swap to elc; filter installed after flush/swap to elc; or filter and no flush to avoid any risk of clogging?

I just dont wanna risk clogging the new cooler, but I want the right stuff in there. Could I flush with just water using no restore and be ok or should I just put the filter on and keep running it?

I think I would rather run the coolant in now to prolong the oil cooler life rather than clog it now and have to change but I'm not sure. How many of you have flushed without cooler replacements?
 

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If you have an egr delete three coolant should be fine.
 

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Drain, pull thermostat, flush with tap, flush with at least 24 gal. distilled, install new thermostat. Install coolant filter, replace with cat ec-1 elc concentrate. Do not let the water sit for extended period of time. Give yourself the better part of the day to get it done.

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Drain, pull thermostat, flush with tap, flush with at least 24 gal. distilled, install new thermostat. Install coolant filter, replace with cat ec-1 elc concentrate. Do not let the water sit for extended period of time. Give yourself the better part of the day to get it done.
This, in essence, worked well for me. Delta still good, if anything it dropped a degree or two.

I also collected some material from my coolant filter, dried it, and have been studying it carefully. Today it was subjected to EDS (energy dispersive x-ray spectroscopy) which shows a lot of carbon and oxygen, with smaller amounts of iron and aluminum, trace amounts of silicon and other things like calcium and sodium in such small quantities that they may or may not really be there, but are on the order of 1% at most. I'm not done with it, but it clearly is not silicate as many have claimed. Nor does it contain appreciable amounts of boron, as I had expected. While it does appear to contain iron oxide, it is in relatively small quantities.

It is completely unaffected by concentrated hydroxide, and by phosphoric/citric acid (the active ingredients in Restore and Restore +, respectively). I cooked it at 115C for three hours, using a higher concentration than the commercial products have in the jug. Took photos and left it on the hot plate over the weekend, got another photo today. It does not dissolve at all, but in the concentrated phosphoric acid the brown color is converted to gray. I attribute this to the conversion of iron oxide to iron phosphate (exactly as occurs with Naval Jelly) but this does not affect the solubility or the cohesiveness of the material. It is unaffected by most common organic solvents.

I have not tested authentic Fleetguard products because I don't have any and don't feel like spending money on them. While they may contain some highly effective mystery material which is non-hazardous (and therefore not listed on the MSDS) it would be a surprise. Generally, things which are perfectly safe are also perfectly useless. I'd love to see someone repeat this with commercial products (or anything else) if so inclined, and am surprised that it appears no one has yet.

I'm not interested in changing the color of the sludge, and what I've seen indicates that the commercial flushing products will be largely ineffective in removing the material that I have isolated; while this may not actually be the case, at this point that claim will require extraordinary evidence. Notice that the manufacturers claim that their products remove silicates, rust etc. but make no mention of this persistent uncharacterized sludge from the 6.0 cooling systems. It appears that the most effective methods will be physical: drain, flush, filter.

For these reasons, my suggestion is to put the filter on immediately. I have not -- and still would not -- flush with chemicals unless there was a compelling reason, and you haven't given any. I also don't see a reason not to switch to an ELC. Southend's advice seems quite sound to me; I would also really encourage the use of the Fumoto valves in the block drains and to use them for every drain. It seems to me that this stuff settles out in the low points; the bottom of the oil cooler, bottom of the jackets around the cylinder bores...
 

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Interesting, was this an elc sample, after you switched over?

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I flushed mine a few years ago with chemicals, thu a filter and elc in. Has been good! Did a few others like that and one without chemicals and just went back to gold.

No issues on any of them. As you can see I did some with chem and some without. Never an issue.

Good luck on any route you chose!
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Drain, pull thermostat, flush with tap, flush with at least 24 gal. distilled, install new thermostat. Install coolant filter, replace with cat ec-1 elc concentrate. Do not let the water sit for extended period of time. Give yourself the better part of the day to get it done.

Sent from my phone that somebody didn't help me get.
Exactly what I want to do, thanks for the help in making the decision. Already done a flush on pop's truck so it should go a bit smoother on mine.
 

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Interesting, was this an elc sample, after you switched over?
Yes, I switched to Delo ELC in mid-April and deleted the egr cooler; it got new coolers under warranty from the dealership when I bought it in March (they supposedly flushed it also). Got a lot of dark stuff out of the block drains, and suspect that the mystery mud I'm playing with now is mainly the last bits from the bottoms of the cylinder jackets finally getting stirred up.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Yes, I switched to Delo ELC in mid-April and deleted the egr cooler; it got new coolers under warranty from the dealership when I bought it in March (they supposedly flushed it also). Got a lot of dark stuff out of the block drains, and suspect that the mystery mud I'm playing with now is mainly the last bits from the bottoms of the cylinder jackets finally getting stirred up.
Yeah mine got flushed at the dealer when the previous owner had the cooler replaced, but after I talked to the tech, he didn't really know all the detail about the elc ratings and ended up putting the fleetcharge in I believe.

I've got Delo to put in mine also
 

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I have no idea how (or if) mine was flushed by the dealer. They put Gold back in it, for what that's worth. I didn't run a coolant filter prior to a few weeks ago because I was waiting for IPR to release theirs.

I'd love to say that Compound X will dissolve this stuff, and have some idea what that may be, but am fairly certain that it'll also attack everything else in the system.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
How do you like IPR's filter? I would like to have it but can't justify spending double the money for it. I think I have decided on PMM's kit so I don't have to cut any OEM lines. Any thoughts on this?
 

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IPR's filter is vastly superior to anything else out there. Most of the commonly used bypass coolant filters have a 1/8" orifice and are plumbed with 1/4 or 3/8" hose; IPR's filter uses 3/4" and supports full volume. Yes it costs twice as much, but it will clean up the coolant perhaps 10x faster and the element is re-useable. I wouldn't even consider anything else.

I did not cut any coolant lines; just ran the existing heater hose to the outlet, and added an 18" hose from the steel pipe by the alternator to the filter inlet. This puts it in series with the heater core. Their new manifold looks like it makes for a clean install, comes in and out of the rear oil cooler cover with o-rings to isolate the flow. I've not ordered one of these yet.
 

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I think when I am going to do my flush and switch I am going to use this - "Motorcraft® Premium Cooling System Flush (VC 1)". It is approved by Ford for all cooling systems and is just a general cleaner. I am thinking this will help remove that boundary layer and generally clean the system without causing more problems like you see sometimes with the restore/restore + method? I have not been able to find anyone that has used it before.


Here is the link to the product.
http://www.fordparts.com/Products/Chemicals-EngineProducts-Coolants.aspx
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Think I am pulling the trigger on PMM's coolant filter. Any thoughts from owners of this product? Other bypass products? Besides IPR's full flow, it seems to me that PMM's is the best for the money. Any arguments?
 

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I ordered the xdp three weeks ago, of course they didn't bother telling me they were on back order till the day after I ordered. They called today and said another week till it ships! The pmm's had problems when they first released them, I think they are ok now. You can check out the vendors forums too, sometimes you can get discounts.

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Discussion Starter #16
Ok Thanks for the heads up on the discounts, this is the first i've heard of it
 

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I've still been reading up on flushing with a good oil cooler and now I believe I have decided to install my filter and run for at least one change, just for an idea of any crud in the system, and then do the flush. My PMM kit came in yesterday and I am hoping to make a nice labor day weekend out of that install along with some new T6 and fuel/oil filters.
 

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Sounds good. I've been talking with jeremy at xdp, I should see my coolant filter in a week. they had a backlog that was out of their control. He's been great with me, coolant filters are like hot cakes. The word is getting out I guess!

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Discussion Starter #19
Haha hot cakes, indeed they are. And I think now is much slower than when they were first being developed. I read some previous threads on IPR and PMM's filters and they were constantly on backorder, talking about hundreds of orders in a day. I'm happy with seeing mine at the doorstep in roughly a business week.

Now just gotta get my hands on some T6 from TSC. Tried one last weekend and they were sold out, never restocked from when I cleaned em out 2 weeks ago for my pops truck! haha
Gonna check another location today
 

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I have the PMM filter and I was very happy with the components and the install was very easy. The only problem that I had was that I could not use both of the shutoff valves because the out flow port is too close to my oil bypass filter. However, when I change my filter I close the one valve that I do have and I have no coolant loss at all.
 
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