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@G8orFord, Thank you for the info. What is sad, is that I am still so new, I don't have enough posts to see links etc....

bump

bump

bump...

kidding, all will change soon enough.
 

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20k already ? wow
With my son driving it now, it may be closer to 25k. LOL He keeps the tires pretty hot on it.
 

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I had a real ****ty mechanic who installed used parts, put a dorman oil cooler on and left metal needle bearings in my motor. Prior to this guy messing with my motor I had oil and coolant temps 5-10 degrees delta. He put ford gold and fords oil in my motor with out my appoval.
 

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It's hard to trust anyone to do right by your truck, at least for me it is. Gotta put potential mechanics through a gauntlet before they can start taking apart your baby. I work a busy schedule but i was determined to do a full coolant flush, while not "difficult" it's very time consuming. I was looking for a mechanic that worked on diesels, talked to a few of them and some were immediate "Nopes". I told them i would be willing to supply distilled water to ensure it's done right, one guy said water from the tap was better for the truck, something along the lines of "if it's good enough to drink; it's good enough for your truck"...Dafuq? another one said he only uses the "best stuff" in regards to coolant and that he won't use the ford gold garbage, i was hopeful... until he told me it was gonna cost about 25 buck for all the coolant! more tap water i guess...

Ended up doing it myself, may have gone overboard as i changed the T-stat out, installed Fumoto valves cause of that damned starter (installed a 6.4 while i was there) bought 35 gallons of distilled water ($0.76 a pop) and spent the Saturday flushing old BARF out. while it took forever and i could taste coolant for the next 2 days, I'm glad i did it, because no way was anyone gonna put that much effort into such a mundane task. i think my deltas may have gone up since then, but that's for another time!
 

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I had a real ****ty mechanic who installed used parts, put a dorman oil cooler on and left metal needle bearings in my motor. Prior to this guy messing with my motor I had oil and coolant temps 5-10 degrees delta. He put ford gold and fords oil in my motor with out my appoval.
I'd have been quite angry over that. When I pay someone to work on my vehicles, they need to clear with me, what goes into it.
 

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Saw this at Walmart tonight... I don't know anything about it but it could be another option.


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Discussion Starter #209
Saw this at Walmart tonight... I don't know anything about it but it could be another option.


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Didn't see any specs on it. I wouldn't use it unless it's clearly marked Cat EC-1
Rotella ELC is only about $17 a gal for concentrate at TSC or Advance
 

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Saw this at Walmart tonight... I don't know anything about it but it could be another option.


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This is formulated for all cars foreign and domestic and light duty trucks. Prestone says this. Since ours are PowerStrokes, I Would stay away. I think we're a little bigger than light duty.
 

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This is formulated for all cars foreign and domestic and light duty trucks. Prestone says this. Since ours are PowerStrokes, I Would stay away. I think we're a little bigger than light duty.
Yea, I wouldn't run it either but then again im not going to run SuperTech oil. Not even in my lawmower. The oil analysis on SuperTech says its good oil and lots of people use it obviously. I just saw that it specifically said it had no silicates. I agree though I will spend the extra and use what I know. For others who may be more adventurous...

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Dang, old dude here. Got my head to spinning reading the above posts. I have an 2003 with the 6.0 engine. Engine was bulletproofed, and had a full egr delete along with a lot of other mods, including the Edge CS gauge setup. This was done a few years back. At the time also put on the Sinister Diesel bypass coolant filter kit that goes to the degas bottle line. Would like to do a complete back flush now. As well as replacing hoses, belt, tstat, turbo boots, radiator cap, and coolant.
Thinking about switching from the Sinister setup to the IPR coolant filter setup. Since my engine has the egr delete would the IPR coolant filter kit work? If so, would I need the coolant housing that they have or not?
Would appreciate any tips that would help. Wife and I have just retired and getting ready to hit the road with our fifth wheel.
Thanks
 

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You need the manifold.

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Dang, old dude here. Got my head to spinning reading the above posts. I have an 2003 with the 6.0 engine. Engine was bulletproofed, and had a full egr delete along with a lot of other mods, including the Edge CS gauge setup. This was done a few years back. At the time also put on the Sinister Diesel bypass coolant filter kit that goes to the degas bottle line. Would like to do a complete back flush now. As well as replacing hoses, belt, tstat, turbo boots, radiator cap, and coolant.
Thinking about switching from the Sinister setup to the IPR coolant filter setup. Since my engine has the egr delete would the IPR coolant filter kit work? If so, would I need the coolant housing that they have or not?
Would appreciate any tips that would help. Wife and I have just retired and getting ready to hit the road with our fifth wheel.
Thanks
You need the manifold.
^^^ This or the Gen 3 with the high flow filter. You can set the filter up in the heater hose but that doesn't give you the easy access to the oil cooler like the manifold or Gen 3 delete does.
 
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Thanks 79jasper and SparkyF250 for the help. Since my truck had the egr delete done a few years back. Wanted to make sure that with the coolant filter kit and the with coolant manifold I would be able to back flush the oil cooler. I see on the IPR website, page 15, diagram #3 how the coolant hoses are routed. But, I am confused on how to back flush the oil cooler with the coolant filter and coolant manifold. What hose or hoses would I remove and hook up a garden hose to do the backflush? Is there pics anywhere to show how to route the hoses to do this?
 

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Bought and installed the manifold and IPR cooler, but very soon after put the BPD air cooler in. My plan was pulling the hose at the IPR filter that goes into the oil cooler, pulling the lower radiator hose, removing the IPR filter, and putting the garden hose in and back flushing. In my signature block there's a flush document I built my hose based off of page 15, and added a two ended barbed attachment to connect the garden hose the piece of clear tubing. Removing the filter for the flush would have prevented any chance of the goo being put back in my system. I did not like the way the heater hose routed when the filter was attached to the passenger side firewall above the tire. There's probably a better place to put the filter, but that's what was in my manual.
 

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Thanks 79jasper and SparkyF250 for the help. Since my truck had the egr delete done a few years back. Wanted to make sure that with the coolant filter kit and the with coolant manifold I would be able to back flush the oil cooler. I see on the IPR website, page 15, diagram #3 how the coolant hoses are routed. But, I am confused on how to back flush the oil cooler with the coolant filter and coolant manifold. What hose or hoses would I remove and hook up a garden hose to do the backflush? Is there pics anywhere to show how to route the hoses to do this?
All you have to do is pull the IN line off the filter and hook up a contraption like I made, gives you a straight shot through the oil cooler. Just make sure you pull the lower rad hose and open both block plugs. If you use shop air at the same time then block the other line at the filter so it doesn't give your engine bay a coolant bath. (don't ask how I know) This pic has it able to hook to the manifold, I've since put a piece of pipe in it to hook to the hose instead, much easier. also a check valve would be nice to keep the shop air from backing up the garden hose.
 
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Alrighty, thanks ChrisSki and SparkyF250. Looks like a great setup SparkyF250 to do a back flush of the oil cooler. Will add the check valve and pipe as you mentioned.
 

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I have an IPR manifold I'd be willing to sell you. It just came off my truck when I switched to the BPD oil cooler relocate kit. The IPR manifold only has a couple thousand miles on it and is almost new. Let me know if you're interested, it's a great setup.
 

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Is the Cat EC1 ELC compatible with the Ford Gold coolant or do you need a complete flush when you do the swap? I am finishing my HPOP swap and remote BPD cooler install. I was planning on topping the motor off with distilled water. Running it, draining the distilled and then swapping in the CAT coolant.
 
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