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Do you have an opinion on or experience with the AMSOIL | Heavy-Duty Antifreeze & Coolant (Product Code: ANTHD1G-EA)?
 

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Discussion Starter #182
Do you have an opinion on or experience with the AMSOIL | Heavy-Duty Antifreeze & Coolant (Product Code: ANTHD1G-EA)?
Well it's Cat EC-1 spec, their write up looks OK. But $25 a gal for 50/50 is steep. Plus you really can't use 50/50 in a fill since you'll always have about 3 gallons in the system even after pulling both block plugs and lower rad hose. I suppose if you can blow the heater core out with air you may get some more out. It's usually best to use concentrate after a flush because of that water you can't get out. What many guys do, is do the last few fill N drains with distilled, then add 3 1/2 to 4 gals of concentrate and top off with distilled, you'll end up at 50/50 to 60/40
FWIW, at Tractor Supply I bought Rotella ELC concentrate for about $17 gal.
 

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My truck was at the dealer twice in the last few months and had the coolant refilled both times. The mechanic showed me a jug of newer Motorcraft coolant that was installed when I remarked that it was now red. I didn’t get the spec off the jug but plan to go back to parts and look it over. Does anyone know if this ‘red’ Motorcraft stuff is anything like the Cat coolant spec? I think the truck will be together for a while and was thinking of flushing but don’t want to dump the system if this coolant is any good. Thanks...Ed


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Discussion Starter #184
My truck was at the dealer twice in the last few months and had the coolant refilled both times. The mechanic showed me a jug of newer Motorcraft coolant that was installed when I remarked that it was now red. I didn’t get the spec off the jug but plan to go back to parts and look it over. Does anyone know if this ‘red’ Motorcraft stuff is anything like the Cat coolant spec? I think the truck will be together for a while and was thinking of flushing but don’t want to dump the system if this coolant is any good. Thanks...Ed


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Did they flush it before adding Ford coolant. Unless they're compatible you shouldn't mix coolants. Good idea to label your degas bottle with what coolant you're running.
 

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Did they flush it before adding Ford coolant. Unless they're compatible you shouldn't mix coolants. Good idea to label your degas bottle with what coolant you're running.


Sparky, the job was to replace the a/c compressor and they had the rad out. When I saw it at that stage I said I wanted to replace the water pump since it was original. I tried to buy time and get a BPD pump but they wanted it in and out so I know I got a Motorcraft, probably with a plastic impeller. As far as flushing I would think not but when I asked about the red coolant the mechanic said they took the gold out and put the red in. I don’t know if they would mix it or not but I can say the stuff in my degas is definitely red and not an odd color. I can ask that on Monday but I think the safe play is flush and fill.
I was looking at that IPR backflush valve listed here on the ads. It says it can be installed without pulling the turbo but I checked that area out and I think it would require a surgeon to do it that way. Any experience with this valve or do you think it’s overkill for a flush?


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Discussion Starter #187
Sparky, I said the IPR valve and I meant XPD. Sorry for the mixup.
Personally I'd go with the IPR coolant manifold and filter (I did). $175 for just the valve is 2/3 of the way to a better setup. You can install either one without pulling the turbo, you need a small ratchet that'll hold your torx bit. Then grab a few beer, a tire step, lots of your favorite cuss words and you're done.

Easy to backflush with the IPR manifold/filter, just pull one hose and hook up a piece of heater hose with a garden hose end. I put a T in mine to blast shop air with water.


 

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Personally I'd go with the IPR coolant manifold and filter (I did). $175 for just the valve is 2/3 of the way to a better setup. You can install either one without pulling the turbo, you need a small ratchet that'll hold your torx bit. Then grab a few beer, a tire step, lots of your favorite cuss words and you're done.



Easy to backflush with the IPR manifold/filter, just pull one hose and hook up a piece of heater hose with a garden hose end. I put a T in mine to blast shop air with water.







Thanks, Sparky. Looks nice. I’m going to see if I can get just the manifold since I already have a homemade coolant filter setup.


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Or, as I look at it maybe just pull one of my filter lines and backflush from there?


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Discussion Starter #190
Or, as I look at it maybe just pull one of my filter lines and backflush from there?


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You could just get the manifold and run a loop of heater hose on it. Don't think a bypass style filter will handle the full flow like the IPR. The spin on filters only have about 1/8" hole in the center, the IPR is 3/4" Still be cheaper and let you get the filter later.
 

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Discussion Starter #191
Or, as I look at it maybe just pull one of my filter lines and backflush from there?


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Not if it's a bypass, to backflush you have to go in under the cap on the oil cooler. That's what the IPR manifold and the Extreme (fix-ur-6) adapter replaces. Gives you a straight shot thru the oil cooler.
 

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OK. Going outside to spec it out. When I did my homemade setup I used a filter block from a Class 8 truck dealer and that uses a filter with at least a 5/8” thread if not 3/4”. I’ll be changing the filter soon and I’ll check that.


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I’m looking for pics on the web but guessing that your manifold mounted next to the rad has a spin on underneath?


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Discussion Starter #194
I’m looking for pics on the web but guessing that your manifold mounted next to the rad has a spin on underneath?


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That's an IPR full flow, cleanable filter. The spin on filters only have an 1/8" hole if you look inside. The manifold replaces the cap on the oil cooler, takes the coolant as it leaves the oil cooler, filters it before it goes into the EGR cooler. The only way to filter it before the oil cooler is with a relocate kit from BPD or IPR.

 

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That's an IPR full flow, cleanable filter. The spin on filters only have an 1/8" hole if you look inside. The manifold replaces the cap on the oil cooler, takes the coolant as it leaves the oil cooler, filters it before it goes into the EGR cooler. The only way to filter it before the oil cooler is with a relocate kit from BPD or IPR.

There is no doubt that, that would be far superior to tapping the lines to the degas bottle. Which is what the sinister diesel product does. Got to wait till I get this miss and fuel pressure problem fixed. Then I will order one. I was looking at their website today at lunch.
 

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Ok,

Newbie here. Haven't bought my truck yet. Im just doing the research. MAN there is a lot to worry about...

Ive pretty much settled on a 6.0 because the "problems" seem like they have clear symptoms to look out for which means if your diligent, then you can fix things before they go too far south.

I have a question, I read (can't remember who's ) post that said to do the O-ring process when doing the head gaskets. What is that exactly? Is it literally just replacing every O-ring on the truck at that time or specifically O-rings on the fuel injectors etc because you have the heads out, you might as well kind of thing.

Or are there specifically O-rings on the heads that should be replaced or added? I'm just trying to get my self as "learned up" as I can before I jump in the deep end and buy one of these monsters....

Cheers everyone! Read through the whole Coolant Thread and boy is there a lot of good info in there. Thanks!

Josh
 
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Ok,

Newbie here. Haven't bought my truck yet. Im just doing the research. MAN there is a lot to worry about...

Ive pretty much settled on a 6.0 because the "problems" seem like they have clear symptoms to look out for which means if your diligent, then you can fix things before they go too far south.

I have a question, I read (can't remember who's ) post that said to do the O-ring process when doing the head gaskets. What is that exactly? Is it literally just replacing every O-ring on the truck at that time or specifically O-rings on the fuel injectors etc because you have the heads out, you might as well kind of thing.

Or are there specifically O-rings on the heads that should be replaced or added? I'm just trying to get my self as "learned up" as I can before I jump in the deep end and buy one of these monsters....

Cheers everyone! Read through the whole Coolant Thread and boy is there a lot of good info in there. Thanks!

Josh

@roverjosh you may want to post up in the general section or use the search function. To answer your question, o-rings on the heads are usually in reference to having grooves cut around the valves on each cylinder. O rings are installed in the grooves prior to cylinder head installation, which compress and provide a better seal when the heads are torqued.
 

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O-ringed head.
 

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It's been bolted on for about 20k now. The head may not be as pretty anymore, but the lack of pressure in the cooling system makes up for it.
 
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