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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
so i picked up my 2004 with 115k miles and is has a typical coolant filter B5134 which i am replacing with the same brand/type.

What i dont know is what type of coolant the truck already has in it, as i assume i should replenish what is lost when i swap filters. I also wanted to drain and replace the coolant, but again, i dont want to do a true flush and dont know what type of coolant i need. I dont want the original and new to blend with any adverse reactions. I dont feel like making a drastic change to a new brand of coolant and risking a clogged cooler/otherwise.

Truck runs great, no issues towing.

So do i need to top up the coolant, or just do a true flush so i can get the right amount in there with no mixing? or can i change the filter without losing too much Coolant?
 

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If the color is yellow, its probably motocraft gold. That is supposed to be changed every 2 years or 20k miles, which ever opens first.

If you don’t know the last time it was changed, could be time. When you do change it the forums will tell you don’t use the gold, go with a CAT-1 ELC. Some shops still use gold. I use a CAT-1 ELC.

Took me two times to get the flush right. The first flush I took shortcuts and clogged my oil cooler, and it had to be changed. So, the coolant in the truck does not need to be changed immediately, but take sometime and learn how to do a flush correctly so you don’t end up like so many people who screw it up the first time.

EDIT: To change a filter, put a 5 gallon Home Depot bucket under the radiator and fill it about half way. Swap the filter. A little will leave. Basically everything above filter level will leak when you pull item which is at least the degas bottle.
 

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Original ford gold. It would be a good time to switch over to elc. Seems like everyone here highly recommends a cat ec1 rated coolant as the original ford gold is prone to facilitating oil cooler failure.
 

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Generally you see three coolants being used in the 6.0ls and with various consequences/reasons.

-green regular green is bright green and SHOULD NOT be used with the 6.0l can lead to cavitation damage
-Ford Gold Premium a straw/greenish/yellow color is what ORIGINALLY came with the 6.0ls but is causes issues. It cannot handle the heat/pressure so it cause gel to form.Then the gel mixes with left over casting sand in the block and clogs the oil cooler coolant pasages and then suffocates/ruptures the egr cooler.
-Red/sticky ELC coolant usually caterpillar, Zerex, or Rotella are the primary brands because COLOR ALONE is not enough of an indicator. Toyota makes a red long life that looks/feels almost identical to caterpillar but they are not the same. Subaur went from green to blue, some big rigs use blue, some red etc. So stick with the red elc in either zerex, rotella, and caterpillar to be on the safe size. There are alternatives but many ELC labeled coolants are not true diesel rated chemical compounds so be careful and research.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
so the question remains...if i cant accurately identify what coolant it has currently, then i need to do a true flush to homogenize with the upgraded ELC...


im feeling like its the gold coolant
 

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Does your filter not have valve to isolate the base from the system?

Id rec a flush with cat ec1
 

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so the question remains...if i cant accurately identify what coolant it has currently, then i need to do a true flush to homogenize with the upgraded ELC...


im feeling like its the gold coolant
considering the info we have from you and shared with you its probably ford gold premium. Be aware.... If you flush the system you could clog the oil cooler. So you may need to purchase an oil cooler backflush kit after the initial flush. You want to flush the crap out of the system, drive around, drain and refill and back flush and repeat a couple of times. Trust me. If you do not spend the time for a THOROUGH flush you will only clog the old and maybe even the new oil cooler sooner than later. Its the long road many 6.0ls face if they don't do it right the first time etc. Once you have flushed it good 3+ times then yes refill with a quality ELC and call it good.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
understood.

i really do want to get a flush/ELC change out of the way. Truck is mostly Bulletproofed, and has had the oil cooler replaced around 2012... im actually feeling like the coolant and systems are in decent shape(degas bottle is clean and fluid looks good) I think a flush should not disrupt my oil cooler...famous last words

i really cant take the time to do the flush and swap....can a ford dealer handle this? or should i be looking for another shop. I cant convince the wife to let me work on this "really clean $20k truck" any more then i already have HAHA🤕
 

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Heres how i did it, only took a few hours.

Drain rad, fill with distilled water. Drive to wal mart (gets temp all the way up). Drain into bucket and refill with distilled.

Do that 2 maybe 3 times until your basically draining just water and drain the rad and top off with concentrated antifreeze.

I forget the ratios but its on the site if you search.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
so in essence, i could run distilled water flushes 3-5 or more times until i get "distilled water" back out, then put in the ratio of ELC concentrate and remainder topped off with distilled water...

why does this sound so easy, while every write up sounds like a monumental task...lol
 

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Youre probably reading the oil cooler back flush threads. Thats way more involved.

If your cooling system hasnt been compromised, you dont need any of the cleaners.
 

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You really need to get a monitor to read the oil and coolant temps and make sure you're not about the 15 degree difference. Just looking at the fluid does not tell you much unless there are rainbow sheens or gel forming. Also simply draining and refilling the system doesn't work for 80% of 6.0l users in the long run. It usually kills the oil cooler quickly. Be prepared to backflush the oil cooler if thats all you do.

The cooling system on the 6.0l is really the big issue outside of ARP Headstuds and many don't take the time to do it right so you'll be back replacing the oil cooler or praying a backflush buys you time. There is a chance but I promise im not trying to sound like a negative ned its just a very common thread..

new 6.0l drains coolant system now getting the wrench symbol and keeps fighting it vs just doing it right the first time is why most recommend don't flush or drain and refill until you are ready to spend the time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Youre probably reading the oil cooler back flush threads. Thats way more involved.

If your cooling system hasnt been compromised, you dont need any of the cleaners.
my only concern is the 20 delta when towing. but its hot as hell in Florida. Just want to be sure i have the right stuff in it.

I guess the query comes from the thought that a true back flush is necessary when changing to a different composition coolant...Consider this answered. A flush will suffice in an otherwise optimally running 6.0.

Should i be running the heater on the AC sporadically to be sure i get circulation through the heater core? i may never take it off Max AC ever again..
 

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If the color is yellow, its probably motocraft gold. That is supposed to be changed every 2 years or 20k miles, which ever opens first.

If you don’t know the last time it was changed, could be time. When you do change it the forums will tell you don’t use the gold, go with a CAT-1 ELC. Some shops still use gold. I use a CAT-1 ELC.

Took me two times to get the flush right. The first flush I took shortcuts and clogged my oil cooler, and it had to be changed. So, the coolant in the truck does not need to be changed immediately, but take sometime and learn how to do a flush correctly so you don’t end up like so many people who screw it up the first time.

EDIT: To change a filter, put a 5 gallon Home Depot bucket under the radiator and fill it about half way. Swap the filter. A little will leave. Basically everything above filter level will leak when you pull item which is at least the degas bottle.
So what type of flush did you do and what part of the flush do you think might have attributed to the clogging of your oil cooler? Might help others including myself to know. Just curious:unsure:
 

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I don't see an issue with properly removing the old coolant and refilling with elc, as long as you don't have a current cooling issue and it doesn't sound like you do.
To do the drain and replace, you drain the rad and pull the lower block plugs, let it drain, reassemble, fill with distilled water only, drive it to temp, with the heater blaring, plus 10 minutes (or more)..... Repeat until you get clean water out of all the drain points. Then add 3.5 gallons of coolant and tap off with distilled water.
Your not exercising the cooling anymore than you would be not doing the flush. Any particles that dislodge in this process would have dislodged just by driving the truck.
The goal is to remove the Ford gold and replace it, not clean the cooling system of debris, so no chemicals in this process.

Sent from my Redmi Note 9 Pro using Tapatalk
 

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So what type of flush did you do and what part of the flush do you think might have attributed to the clogging of your oil cooler? Might help others including myself to know.
I did the flush in my signature block, not the back flush. I attribute the clogging I had to using a chemical like VC9 or Restore and not pulling both drain plugs each time I did a distilled drain. The contaminants collect at the bottom.

I did ratio and proportions and did a few extra distilled drains to get practically no original coolant left. Its that all the contaminants the the chemicals knocked free got stuck by the drain plugs which I never opened and they eventually got filtered out by the oil cooler.

Next time I did a flush, I put the Fumoto drain plugs in and drained with every distilled fill.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Great content right here.

thank you all.

going to flush with distilled many times, then get in the elc...
 
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