Compression Ignition Technologies Shop Truck Build Thread

Ok well it all started because back when I first studded my truck I was forced to get a new head. I jumped on the Clearwater Cylinder Heads train and god do I regret that.

Long story short they sold me a head with a cracked injector bore and right after I got my truck together I had fuel in my coolant.

Thanks to my good friends down at BPD, Ken sent me their kit to beta test as the first person to try to repair the crack out of the shop where they had complete control of the process. Well I tried it and it worked!

So, since I had the truck down and originally planned on a compound build for my truck I started talking turbos with two of the smartest people I have come to know, Nate and Adam. Those two spec'd my chargers for my build to make the goal I wanted to hit. For those of you who don't know I'm hoping to hit 1000+ or as close to as possible on fuel only.

All that said the parts collecting began.

GTX 62.5/GTX87.7 Dual Ball Bearing turbos.


I was running on completely stock fuel before so now it was time for a complete overhaul of the fuel system.





I designed my own fuel system bracket on Solidworks.




And I had it cut out and welded up by a good friend of mine at a fab shop in Calif.









Here it is put together.





Installed on the truck.





I opted to spend the money for shut off valves on both sides of the pump and filter setup for cleaner filter changes.





I fed that system with a Beans Diesel one bolt sump. Couldn't build my own for what theirs cost.

Fuel system out of the way it was time to start collecting parts for the CAC. I got rid of the factory CAC for a stand alone W2A CAC and radiator.







Test fit in the engine bay.





Fit like a glove.

Since I decided to use my battery locations for a turbo pedestal and a CAC I needed to relocate the batteries to the bed. That meant new battery cables and box.





Not sure how much space I have left in this post so I'll continue in the next one.

So to continue on…

Not sure how many knew this but my truck originally had dual alternators from the factory. Now the way the ECM is setup it randomly selects which alternator to use to charge the system each time the truck is started. That means you CANNOT simply unplug the second alternator and go on, because should you do that and the ECM selects the alternator that is no longer there, the truck will drain the batteries and leave you stranded.

All that said there is a simple work around.

On the passenger side fender well there is a harness that the factory dual alternator plugs into. When you remove the second ALT the harness needs to come out too.

It plugs in right here.


Those of you who don't have a second ALT will see a little "loop back plug" in the end of the harness. This is what you need to replicate with the factory dual ALT harness.

It's very simple.

Remove the old harness and find the plug that looks like this.


I had already modified this one before I took this pic. But the green loop back is what you need to worry about. You have to change the pin out locations for the green wire and remove the others.

To do that you need to take and pull the rubber stop out so you can access the release pin.



I used a piece of 1/16" tungsten to push it out.



Once you have removed the red tab, proceed to remove the other wires and pins and put the two green pins in the location you see here, then button it back up and plug it into the factory harness along the fender well and you are DONE.





I only had to do this because I have decided to use fire hoses for injectors and needed a twin pump setup and the way they mount to the head you can't utilize a dual ALT.

Next up was building the pedestal for the high pressure turbo.

Had to decide how I wanted to orient it in the valley. I wanted to build mine similar to Oliver's with the LP in the valley but the LP I used is entirely too big to do so without a completely custom intake manifold. So I proceeded to mock up my HP mount.





Pedestal built and HP mounted. Simple yet effective.







Next up was the up pipes.







Forgot to add this earlier.

I have had a BPD kit installed for a long time now and decided to go with their race plate for this build as it allowed me a multitude of options for routing coolant and oil to the chargers and twin pump. Plus it was super low profile and would work perfectly for this build.







Next was plumbing in the wastegate.



Next was the LP mount and intermediate hot side pipe.






Then it was time to start mocking up the cold side piping.




Cold side piping all welded up with the exception of the hot CAC pipe. As that needed to wait until the kit was in the truck to determine final routing due to the degas bottle.



Next it was time to weld it all up and get it all wrapped.




I chose to soak my wrap in a glue and water mixture to forego the wire ties.

Here it is all dry and cured.




Next up is install.

Onward with the install.

Started by reinstalling my HPOP and cover (they were on the mock up motor during compound kit build). Along with the BPD race plate.


Next up my trusty WPE 6.0.4 intake manifold installed and removed all factory fuel lines.



Installed my regulated return and removed the factory style down pipe.


Next up was the up-pipes, HP turbo and the corresponding oil and coolant hoses for it and the twin pump.






Lines routed and connected and turbo blanket out on.




Piping test fit with CAC and HP.






LP mount/Twin pump kit installed and turbo mounted.




Last test fit with the intake elbow and filter installed. Thank god it fit. LOL.




The last pictures is how the truck is currently sitting now. There is still a ton of work to do but I'm hoping to have it up and running in the spring. Weather permitting it will be sooner but my garage isn't heated so for now she sits just like this.