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Semper Fi
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Discussion Starter #83
@trife96 Hahaha! You're right, so I went ahead and did it. Check the initial post for the interior portion of the upgrade.
 
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Semper Fi
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96 Posts
Discussion Starter #85 (Edited)
Did you look into LEDs for the front fog lights by chance?
I would have, but my gorgeous, smart, amazing gf ended up getting me the 20" LED light bar with bracket kit for the front that replaces the OEM fog lights. She also got me the 2" flush mount cubes for the back. Both products from Rough Country. I have them both wired into the upfitter switches in the cab. I provided the links below to the lights I have.

FORD 20IN LED BUMPER KIT (05-07 F-250/350)
I wish I could drive around with this thing on all the time, it's awesome. I tried taking pictures to post, but the pictures don't do the light bar justice.

2-INCH SQUARE FLUSH MOUNT CREE LED LIGHTS - (PAIR | BLACK SERIES)
These lights help out a bunch when backing up at night. The only problem I ran into was the depth of these flush mount lights won't allow you to install them at the far ends of the bumper, I had to install them more in the middle on each side, so the beam doesn't reach as far out on either side as I would like. They get the job done though, and are infinitely better than nothing back there at all.
 

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Haven't had them apart yet, and I didn't see it mentioned.
Anyone know what bulb the running board lights take on a king ranch?

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
 

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Semper Fi
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96 Posts
Discussion Starter #87
Haven't had them apart yet, and I didn't see it mentioned.
Anyone know what bulb the running board lights take on a king ranch?

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
Another thread (link below) called out 168 as the bulb type for the running board courtesy lights

King Ranch Running Board Lights

I hope that helps.
 

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Firsly I have a 2006 Ford F250 Super Duty, CCBSB, 4X4. Interior lights are all LEDs. Back up lights are LEDs. Fog lights were changed to 4" square LEDs. Underhood light is LED. (I had an extra). 3rd barke light and cargo lights LEDs. I am no electronics guy but I do a fair amount of 12v work on my stuff. I know that the flasher was addressed to account for the lower draw for the signal lights. What about the running lights, and cargo lights. I changed out the bulbs for my backup lights and have not had any problem. Then I did the bulbs in my cargo lights "(the one's on the upper cab by the brake light) and they are flickering. I had a bad interior light housing so I changed this out and still have the problem. Do I have to put a resistor on the lights? Any help would be appreciated. If I missed this information in the threads sorry bout that. I don't remember seeing it. Oh and by the way, nice write up TClev Thanks!
 

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Have you swapped the engine compartment light that’s mounted on the underside of the hood? I did that one and it makes a big difference. I will say the interior lights are much brighter than the OEM’s were. Almost feel like I’m being interrogated until they go off. The visor lights for the makeup mirror are brighter as well. I like the 6000K for the interior light color as well.
 

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Ok, using TClev's information I went all LED in my truck. Didn't use superbrite for bulbs but used info for crossreference for Amazon. We will see how they last. Here are some before and after pics. Interior was done about a year ago. I think the only thing left is the 3rd brake light.
 

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Super Brite EP27L flasher taller than OEM

The EP27L I got from Super Brite is at least .25” taller than the OEM flasher. Is that what everyone has found to be the case? I zip tied the cover back on because it wouldn’t lock back on since the new flasher is that much taller. I see there is another vacant spot for a flasher next to the one I replaced, anyone know what that one is used for? Anyone not put the cover back on ? The new flasher works as advertised. My LED conversion is now complete, inside & out.
 

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Yes I did replaced the OEM headlights and installed LED bulbs. REALLY bright but love them. I had to aim mine down some, they were blinding other drivers.
 

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The EP27L I got from Super Brite is at least .25” taller than the OEM flasher. Is that what everyone has found to be the case? I zip tied the cover back on because it wouldn’t lock back on since the new flasher is that much taller. I see there is another vacant spot for a flasher next to the one I replaced, anyone know what that one is used for? Anyone not put the cover back on ? The new flasher works as advertised. My LED conversion is now complete, inside & out.
Same thing here, the new flasher is taller. I just left the cover off. As hard as it was to snap in, I don't foresee it popping out.
 

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Here are the results for my LED upgrade in my gauges. So this process took a little longer than it should. I will include some pointers to help make this process go as smooth as possible.

Step 1: Disconnect the battery
Step 2: Engage Parking Break
Step 3: Put key in and shift into "1" gear
Step 4: Remove Dash Cover
Step 5: Remove 4 ea 8mm bolts for gauge cluster
Step 6: Remove 2 ea harness connectors on top of cluster (push down, and slide lock over and it will push up)
Step 7: Remove gauge selector indicator (squeeze tabs on each end and pull down), remove the gauge cluster
Step 8: I recommend marking the sockets to orient them easier when installing.
Step 9: Twist counter-clockwise 180 degree to remove. Swap bulb, reinstall carefully not to bend or mess up metal connections. Push down while twisting.

Now, unfortunately standard bulbs don't have to be installed a certain way, but LED's do. So you will have to reinstall the gauge cluster, reconnect the harness connectors to the dash cover, and reconnect the battery to test. I loosely fitted the gauge cluster without using the bolts. Left the shift indicator disconnected. Reconnected the harness connectors to the dash cover without pushing the cover all the way on. Turn key on and test various functions (i.e. 4wd, high beam, cruise, turn signals). Fortunately, when you cycle the key to ACC, a lot of the indicator/warning lights will come on briefly. Make note of which one's don't. Even take a picture so you can remember which ones may need reversal.



Personally, I purchased my LED's from superbrightleds.com which used one LED aimed forward with a glass lens. It worked good and was nice and bright over stock, but the con was it was too spotty in certain areas, so I switched to the 3 LED bulb (also from superbrightleds.com) with really good results. I prefer this bulb over all the rest.



However, one con was the 3 LED was too bright for certain indicators on the cluster like the cruise indicator or high beam indicator. For those, I would recommend just a stock bulb or even the single LED. Once you have identified which ones need changing, swap them out, re-install, and re-test. If all looks good, then reinstall everything correctly and enjoy :wink:



 

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Looks great. About 6 years ago I swapped every light in the truck, and I MEAN EVERY LIGHT, from the dash to every door handle lit button, to blue LEDs. All the external's were swapped a few years ago, and a new electronic flasher was installed, so the LED's flash the normal speed. The old flasher works off the heavy current pulled by all the incandescent lights. When LEDs are installed, the flasher flashes quickly, indicating an incandescent is out. I still like HIDs for the headlights and driving lights.
 

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Looks great. About 6 years ago I swapped every light in the truck, and I MEAN EVERY LIGHT, from the dash to every door handle lit button, to blue LEDs. All the external's were swapped a few years ago, and a new electronic flasher was installed, so the LED's flash the normal speed. The old flasher works off the heavy current pulled by all the incandescent lights. When LEDs are installed, the flasher flashes quickly, indicating an incandescent is out. I still like HIDs for the headlights and driving lights.
So I was curious, were you able to change the color of the mileage or whatever that area that is called?
thanks Andrew
 
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