Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum banner
61 - 73 of 73 Posts
Jay Dub

Have a '99 7.3L PSD. Will start ok, but suddenly dies after a few minutes at idle or while driving. Restarts immediately but can do it again in a minute or not at all, until next time it starts. Have replaced everything that has been said or thought to cause the problem, but nothing has solved it. It has no chip on computer and PCM has been replaced. Kinda nerve wracking to be applying the brakes or turning a corner and it dies, (since those things stop working) only to throw it into neutral and restart with the pedal to the floor and the brakes slam on or the steering wheel spins wildly. Can't even trust it for a prospective buyer to test drive it. HELP!!!!
 
So i figured out if you go LED on brake lights and then your torque converter develops a bad attitude then you should go back to regular bulbs or add a resistor....That was FUN!
 
Can someone in here point me in the right direction. I replaced fuel pump and nee to prime my fuel pump from the tank to the engine. I dont have fuel in the lines because i replaced lines. Engine turns over for a little bit then dies out. How to get truck to stay on and purge air. I poured fuel in fuel bowl to get it to crank over. Dies out in about 2 minutes
 
Jay Dub

Have a '99 7.3L PSD. Will start ok, but suddenly dies after a few minutes at idle or while driving. Restarts immediately but can do it again in a minute or not at all, until next time it starts. Have replaced everything that has been said or thought to cause the problem, but nothing has solved it. It has no chip on computer and PCM has been replaced. Kinda nerve wracking to be applying the brakes or turning a corner and it dies, (since those things stop working) only to throw it into neutral and restart with the pedal to the floor and the brakes slam on or the steering wheel spins wildly. Can't even trust it for a prospective buyer to test drive it. HELP!!!!
I am a rookie at this , but i had a similiar problem in the past and just put in a new CPS and got the truck running again. Have you tried that?
 
The only advice I have is to crank for a bit and then release the air by pushing the pin on the shrader valve in the regulator. Almost every time I've replaced the pump, the truck starts right up like nothing happened. One time I had to keep purging the air as above. I would get a nice pffft of air every time I pushed the valve. Cheers!
 
I agree with Patrick. Without a lit pump you’ll have to do it manually.
 
T
The only advice I have is to crank for a bit and then release the air by pushing the pin on the shrader valve in the regulator. Almost every time I've replaced the pump, the truck starts right up like nothing happened. One time I had to keep purging the air as above. I would get a nice pffft of air every time I pushed the valve. Cheers!
Thanks! I will give it a try. I have to buy another battery i killed a cell in one of my batteries
 
I forgot to mention that you may need need to repeat the process multiple times until fuel comes out instead of air. Cheers!
 
I don't know how common it is, but when our truck wouldn't start in cold weather, it was a bad glow plug relay. The glow plugs were fine, the relay just wasn't sending any power to them. It's an easily replaced $50 part located in the valley next to the fuel filter.
 
I don't know how common it is, but when our truck wouldn't start in cold weather, it was a bad glow plug relay. The glow plugs were fine, the relay just wasn't sending any power to them. It's an easily replaced $50 part located in the valley next to the fuel filter.
Very common problem; I replaced mine w/ a cheap NAPA part (I'm on an island and needed the truck with snow on the way) and ordered a heavy duty Stancor part; I'll put that in once the temperature is above freezing. Stancor part is rated at 200 amps.
 
61 - 73 of 73 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top