[highpockets2]

06 F350 KR 4x4 198k miles. Fresh, complete long block installed, coated pistons, studs, new KDD iron heads, all fluids fresh, all sensors replaced with oem Motorcraft, new 6.4 starter, new oem glow plugs and harness,2 new batteries. Originally used the injectors from the previous engine as performance wise it ran well but major blow by/oil leaks prompted the replacement. First start on new engine had some noticeable smoke I attribute to fresh build. Continued to cold start smoke, but goes away after 3 or 4 min. No codes, ficm was replaced several years ago, swapped with my sons truck no change. Clean fresh fuel, new filters, no debris in HCFM, good fuel pressure. Replaced all 8 injectors with current Ford reman from dealer. Same thing. Virtually undrivable when cold until operating temp comes up. Then fine all day long. Starts right up but heavy fuel smell and very heavy smoke. Ideas ?

 

[Jimmy's Pilot Service]

Not extremely knowable about the 6.0 but a few things to think about. Others will be along soon.

Get FOREScan or FORScan Lite and the OBD II adapter they tell you to get. Yes there may be codes even without a engine light. Pull all the codes and record them, clear all codes, pull them again. Do a contribution test, I believe you can do a buzz test on that system as well.
Let us know what you get.
I suspect the smoke is due to the glow plugs not coming on correctly, especially if it goes away after warming up a bit and drives properly. An easy way to see if the glow plugs are cycling would be a USB adapter with a volt meter. They system should drop about 1 or so volts when the glow plugs come on.

I may be wrong but some of my initial thoughts.

 

[bismic]

Agree with the above with one exception. Even ForScan's contribution test is not all that good. That said - ForScan is the best value for a scan tool and it reads codes VERY thoroughly!

Are you absolutely sure it is fuel that you smell?
Is your EGR system still "operable"? A stuck open EGR valve can behave that way.

 

[highpockets2]

Egr system intact, intake was boiled and cleaned when built, egr was cleaned then ran through a full cycle which sends to indicate proper function as there is a noticeable difference in rpm as it opens. If truck is started cold and immediately driven while glow plugs are hot, while it does smoke its drivable until you come to idle. Then shut off and restart in order to maintain enough cylinder heat for combustion. I would say yes, glow plugs work. Always starts immediately, hot or cold, almost unlike a normal 6.0 which sends odd. Just the extremely heavy smoke/ no power until warm, and I mean like smoking enough to envelope an entire 2 story home smoke. Cylinder balance test on snap on scanner all over the place cold but dead flat smooth warm. No pending, history or current code in 2200 miles since replaced. Hate to run it like this have way to much invested to risk internal engine damage.

 

[highpockets2]

Just an update on this issue. Ford factory service tech took a look at it, factory scan tool. Still no codes, seemed to show excessive backpressure, thought maybe cat was clogged up. Dropped downpipe in front of cat, test drive no different. Suspected low running voltage possible bad alternator/ voltage regulator. Replaced alternator, again no change. Returned truck not repaired, continues to smoke heavy, poor(6 to 8)mpg empty, as it is getting cooler now, say 15deg in the mornings, truck stalls repeatedly, smoke if anything is worse than before. Continue to smoke when warm, if left to idle when hot, begins to visible smoke and hesitate. Next step, pull cab and tear engine down completely to inspect cam/crank timing,crankshaft reluctor damage, broken/ damage piston rings. Not sure what else this could be but done messing with it and don't want to destroy a new engine. Ugggh !

 

[TooManyToys]

As I was reading through your posts, especially when you mentioned the mileage, I was thinking timing before you mentioned it. What cam is in it?

It might not be that, it just was running through my head.

 

[highpockets2]

Stock cam, valve reliefs are cut in pistons as I wasn't sure which truck this engine would go in and I want to do a van in the other build. So, I suppose, could be a tooth advance or retarded causing my issue but not causing valve interference with pistons. Although I would have thought no cam sync or cam/crank correlation error ?

 

[bismic]

What exactly caused the Ford Tech to think there was excessive back pressure. There is a sensor for that, so there either is or there isn't?

 

[TooManyToys]

I wasn't thinking so much of a tooth off with the cam install. I wasn't sure if it was an aftermarket cam that may have the dowel bored off its location or something else. Any idea what a true compression test psi shows?

"Cylinder balance test on snap on scanner all over the place cold but dead flat smooth warm."

This suggests to me a real compression test, as two sets of injectors should not be bad injectors.

I think your diagnostics are good, I'm just trying to swag some ideas.

 

[bismic]

Have you pulled the CKP to inspect for anything odd? Maybe it isn't held in tightly. Hopefully not a bent trigger wheel. It should throw a code, but who knows for sure. Stranger things have happened. There is a guy on PSA right now with an engine going in and out of SYNC with no codes thrown.

I'm not the guy to have or use an oscilloscope, but do you have one?

 

[highpockets2]

Have you pulled the CKP to inspect for anything odd? Maybe it isn't held in tightly. Hopefully not a bent trigger wheel. It should throw a code, but who knows for sure. Stranger things have happened. There is a guy on PSA right now with an engine going in and out of SYNC with no codes thrown.

I'm not the guy to have or use an oscilloscope, but do you have one?

Haven't inspected the crank sensor since install, I did put both cam and crank, OE Motorcraft parts when built. Has not thrown codes, nor lost synch and oddly enough with the 6.4 starter it barely rolls over before starting hot or cold. I do have a scope to view the waveform of the crank and that may not be a bad idea, I may also just install another fresh engine and tear down and inspect this one then put it back together and into my other truck as I have another one just about ready to go. Just hate to do all that work with no direct path and confirmed problem. Maybe I can pop the trans out and remove the rear cover to inspect cam timing although that won't tell me what the crank reluctor looks like. Hmmm. Thank you for the additional ideas.

 

[Hydro]

Are all the temp sensors registering the same temp when cold ?
...and appropriate temps when warmed
tranny temp senor also figures into this