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Discussion Starter #1
Hi everyone, I had to get on the forum for answers, hope you can help!
I have had problems starting my 1999 7.3 w/126k.. in the cold. I always have to plug it in at home but after work its a real problem.
I just installed new Motorcraft glow plugs, quite the hassel. When you remove the plugs I think a little bit of oil goes down into the glow plug hole...
I went to start it after the swap, HARD/no go. I plugged it in and charged the batteries, gave a small shot (a whiff) into the air filter of start fluid. It kicked and I stopped and returned 2 hrs later..

With the Batteries charged and the block warmer than before the engine started and clacked and shook. I shut it down and the check engine lite came on. This happened for the 3 times that I tried. The last time I let it idle for about 30 sec. The engine throttle did not respond and just shook and clacked. I shut it down and then ran in here to ask you guys what is going on and what to do..

I double checked the electrical plugs that I unhooked. Each glow plug connection were pushed on all the way as a double check prior to closeing up the covers... Heck I don't know.... I need help on this one Thanks for any help...SS
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Well I guess I will do some answering on my own post......
I went out this AM to start my truck after being pluged in all night.
Well the same thing... I went out and got a new glow plug relay. Am about to install it...
Haven't gotton any replys so far, so I am going it alone.
If this doesen't work I will reinstall my old glow plugs as it did work prior to me putting new ones in..
That is the only difference and change I have made....
Its not an easy job to do but what the heck,,, I guess I'm on my own... Lucky me..................
 

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Don't EVER shoot in starting fluid through the air filter. TERRIBLE idea. And only use starting fluid if the glow plugs are off! You can effh up the truck.
You needed to check the GPR and the GPs before just randomly replacing them. Read this, it explains the chugging. It's normal.

Ok here goes. Mine does it too. When it's cold (depends on the temp for each truck, mine is a wimp so 35-40 and down is hard), the oil is cold, so thick, so doesn't flow fast at all. Like cold molasses. But when you plug in the block heater, it does just that: heats the block. Which contains oil and coolant as well as the cylinders so everything flows nicely and combusts nicely too.
Well on each head there is a high pressure oil rail that feeds the injectors. The rail is only so big so cold oil can only flow down to the end so fast. AND it's a dead head rail, just an end, no loop. Oil enters near the front of the cylinders (#2 on the driver side) from the HPOP and gets pushed to the back (#8). Well in the firing order, #8 is RIGHT AFTER #6. So once 6 fires, it depletes what oil there is in the general area. Since the oil is cold, thick, slow, the HPOP can't push enough oil ALL THE WAY to the back of the rail to the 8 injector fast enough before that one fires, so it gets an incomplete injection. Just a normal engineering hiccup right and just has to be that way right? No.
You can either get some synthetic, an oil with a lower weight for the winter, or both. OR you can get a HPO Xover hose. Just bridges the two oil rails at the #3 to #6 cylinder area. So once #6 fires with that thing installed, you have oil coming from the HPOP AND the passenger oil rail to help replenish the rail before #8 fires. Smooths the idle, ESPECIALLY in cold starts. Makes it quieter. Keeps the RPMs very very steady. Had it on a dyno pre and post HPO Xover install. Pre install the RPMs on the comp were varying by about 50 or so. Post instal, didn't move at all. Ok, maybe 2-3.
 

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hey, i may not have a answer to your problem, but try the GPR like you are doing. Maybe the connection to the valve cover came loose?

before you put the old GP's in, and tear it down again.... get a ohm meter, and see what the resistance on the GP's. That might tell you if they are good, bad, or the wiring is bad going to the GP. The wires are the first 2 and last 2 wire on the plug going under the valve covers. looking for the write up, but can not find it.

hope that helps. Some one else might want to chime in for some help
 

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I would check the GPR just to make sure its got 12v on the main leg. Then key on engine off check the other post and make sure you got atleast 12v there too. Other than an electrical connection that you stated before......I would be lost too. I wouldnt think you got a bad set of plugs. Wish I could be of more help.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thank you all for the return mail... I unplugged the plug at the valve covers to check if they were in good.... yup No corrosion on the plugs and they are seated fine,,thats out of the way......
I did go down and get a relay.
I just took it off and the poss. side and it was a little bit corroded.
I sanded the base of the plate that it attaches to. I installed the new on.

As far as the oil, that may be a factor as I have 15-40.. I have had the block heater on and this AM I have had my salamander on to warm up the underneath of the truck. The post about the oil I have found on a past post...
As far as the starting fluid---- I sprayed the air filter with a tad...The ignition
was off.. I waited about 4min before I cranked it.. It did kick over and then I shut it down immediatly.
This morning it started but it was nocking and the engine service lite cam on as it did yesterday... It wouldn't stay running, and stalled. then when I tried again it didn't start or kick..
I know in the past yes it does lump away when started and then smooths out.
I have never had a knocking noise like this....
The only things I had to disconnect were,, Valve cover plugs, glow plug wires, the main harness on top of the driver side valve cover, and a hose from the turbo "Y" pipe..
Sorry for the long note but the more info I feel I give you all The better. Thank you for you on going help....ss
I plan on trying again with the new relay soon.. hope things change for the better.....
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Well I'm back... No luck what so ever...... I heated the engine, fuel tank and every other thing that got in the way under the truck.
12v on the hot side of the relay..
No dice
I didn't mind spending the $$ on a new relay it was 10yrs old anyway. The glow plugs probably 10yrs old...

When I turn on the truck, it knocks while I have the starter on, try to let it run but it dosen't fire and stay running.....

I just don't believe it!!!!!!!!!!! Im p*ssed off now!!!!!

I just don't know what to do at this point......

signed: p*ssed in upstate NY..:dunno::dunno::confused:
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Well,,, my frustrating update as follows.

I tested the relay......fine

I pulled the plugs (connector)on the valve covers... I got my ohm meter (cheepy) and BLACK to ground, RED to the 1st two pins and the last 2 pins on driver side. I got readings about 3.5 on all

Pass. side---- no readings from the first and last 2 pins.....

Tested original plugs on the bench: poss. on plug tip, neg on the threads.
Got a reading of about 1.8.
Now I don't know if this bench test is basically the same as being in the head, I presume so if the threads are in the block and the pin is isolated, seems like it would be the same.. yes--no?

I'm puzzled that no ohms from the pass. side of the block. :crazy:
Well, I will put this to rest for now. Its snowing and I have to let my blood pressure settle down..:tard:
So far thats what I know
 

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If I'm understanding your last post, and a couple before it, the two outside pins on each side should have voltage running through them correct?

If the above is correct, then you shouldn't get an Ohm reading necessarily, by going to ground, because Ohm's just test the resistance of the circuit. To get a true Ohm reading, you should be going from those pins, to the GP, or where those wires plug into the GP. Correct?

I may be way off, but I figured anything that might help ease your frustration a little bit would be a good thing.

Now, if you are not getting any reading whatsoever, that would indicate to me that there is a break in the line somewhere and could possibly be causing some of the problems you are experiencing.

Make sense?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Hi, What I did was, I unplugged the connection to the valve cover plug. With that out of the way, I put the ohm meter possitive probe on the 2 outside pins on both sides of the engine. The meter's black probe went to ground.... No power to the Glow plug except that of the meter probes.

As discovered, the ohm's read about 3.5 or so on the driverside bank, and zero on the pins on the pass. side....

I can't understand that there would be a break from inside the valve cover.. Just the glow plug connectors were pulled, and very carefully I might add.

But stranger things have happened in my life,,,,
Any thoughts??????:crazy:
maybe I did it all wrong..:confused:
 

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GPs aren't gonna give you a knocking unless you have starting fluid in there and it is being prematurely detonated because of the GPs. Better change that air filter now that it got starting fluid on it.
Might be a CPS. Might be a shorted fuse that controls the PCM, fuel bowl heater, . . .
Number 22 I think. It's a 30 amp.

"Probe each of the 4 outer pins individually with the positive (red) lead, noting the resistance. Good glow plugs will have a resistance between 0.6 and 2 ohms. If you get infinite resistance on any glow plug, that one is either bad or the connector under the valve cover has come loose."
It's ohms, not voltage.

I keep reading that part about oil getting into the cylinders. That shouldn't of hurt anything but idk. You might wanna pull all the GPs and bump the engine over some to make sure everything in there is out.
 

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i would pull your valve covers off again and verify/check your injector harnesses and GP harnesses again. Dont rely on the meter, just pull em and check by hand for good contact. If it's knocking real hard, that can be a sign of loose connections.......
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Hi.. I have some checking to do tomorrow because of the lack of signal from the connector on the pass. side.
If I have to tear off the valve covers thats what I will do. It seems that maybe I had a DEAD side to the motor with out that signal for the GP's.

I will also check the fuse panel, I would not of thought about that.

I had the airbox open when I tried to start it, but I will remove the plumbing before I try again..
I will read all the posts so I don't forget anything...:nod:
Thanks for the suggestions, I have my morning cut out for me... I will let you know how I made out...

stay tuned for the out come!!

Thanks,,,ss
 

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Where are you at anyway? I know that if you were close I'd be willing to come help get it started.

If you have a way of checking for codes then check it. If that pass side UVCH is dead you'll figure it out by code pulling
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Way--Way up north in New York state, I will post tomorrow with results, Thanks for your help up till now....steve
 

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Man I feel your pain. My truck started today then stalled won't start back up. All I did was put the diy tymar on. Been thinking so hard I went took it back off sense I ran it with no filter for awhile. I wonder I read you need to have the batteries unhooked for at least a hour. Welli I didn't do that. I don't know if the computer reads a certIn amount of air. Did you unhook batteries for a hour?
 

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Just one more thing to put on my list for tomorrow..thks. let me see thats #21 for my list,,, hahaha gotta laughat it all :)
 

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Man Im starting to hate this truck. Unless you have a bunch of parts and a scanner it's hard to get things figured out. There like women way too much work. Lol.
 

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Have the valve cover gaskets been changed? If not you should change them. I had the same problem and the conector under the valve cover was bad. The connector looked good but it was loose inside. Ford has a $13.00 fix (two plastic shims) or NAPA has a valve cover gasket with wiring harness part# 600-3500. About $85.00 per side.
 
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