Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum banner

61 - 80 of 98 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
287 Posts
Im trying to understand this fuel system. The lines coming off the back of the heads just need to tie into the return line to the tank? And the fpr has 3 hose fittings, 1 for fuel in, 1 for fuel to heads and 1 for ???.
 

·
over thinking everything
Joined
·
1,170 Posts
I reckon its 2 in from heads return to tank
 

·
BANNED by Kris
Joined
·
6,316 Posts
Im trying to understand this fuel system. The lines coming off the back of the heads just need to tie into the return line to the tank? And the fpr has 3 hose fittings, 1 for fuel in, 1 for fuel to heads and 1 for ???.
In case Dan was a little vague, the two lines at the rear of the heads are fed from the pump. The two line at the front of the heads are the return lines that go into each side of the regulator and the third line from the regulator is the return to tank switch.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
287 Posts
Ok im still not 100% here. Fuel comes from tank/pump and goes where? Straight to the back of the heads or through the regulator first?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,482 Posts
it goes tank, pump, back of heads, out front of heads (rubber lines that connect to the factory fpr) to the new fpr then back to tank
 

·
BANNED by Kris
Joined
·
6,316 Posts
To add to Eric's post:

-Tank
-Tank selector
-Pre-filter, pump, post-filter



-"T" or "Y" fitting, rear of heads



-Front of heads, regulator, back to tank switch

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
94 Posts
Noob question to ask y'all,

I am trying to decide whether to stick with the 1995 F-350 7.3 OBS 4x4 CCLB or move to a newer truck.

The good;
-Motor is strong and everything checked out at my trusted diesel shop even with 307,000 on the clock

-tranny is fine once it warms up, but it is slipping when you first start it up and try to go. It will also stay in second OD and not up-shift until tranny temp reaches 120. The truck will run and shift fine all day long after that, unless I let it cool down, or if I have the AC, or defrost on, then it will throw a code and go into limp mode. If I shut it off and restart, then it's fine.

-tranny was rebuilt for third time 3 years ago.

-No Rust
-fuel system is all been gone through and lines replaced
-turbo seems to spool and looks like vanes are in great shape
-4" BDS turbo back exhaust straight
-new front windshield
-never had a goose, or 5th wheel hitch

The Bad;
-need to replace shocks and suspension
-need to replace steering gear and sector shaft
-needs new tires
-I need to replace the bed as it has suffered a bad repair after rear end accident with PO
-tranny will need to be replaced soon
-all the doors need new hinges and strikers
-needs lockout hubs up front (has autos that work fine, I like manual lock outs)
-I want to completely redo the interior with '03+ expedition or 08+super duty replacement.


I love the OBS crew style, and the 8ft bed as well. Although it would be nice to buy a newer truck and not have to do a thing. I would buy '08 or newer CCLB 4x4.

Has anyone rebuilt their OBS here and regretted it? The money will be about the same as buying newer.

I know this is sacrilegious here, but there is a DeStroked OBS in my area that really sounds good, and lowers the decibels in the cab.

One of the diesel mags is using DeStroked's latest kit to put the 6.7L cumins in the OBS. I would like to do that or a 6.4 down the road if I kept the OBS.

I have the cash to do the 4+ inch lift, 37's and replace all the steering components saved up now. But I could wait another 6 months and pay cash for a newer 6.4.

Any thoughts appreciated.
 

·
over thinking everything
Joined
·
1,170 Posts
Wrong thread dude you might be better to ask this in the obs chat or start your own thread
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
686 Posts
I'm sure I missed it... Is the new pump plumbed after the tank selector valve? My vague recollection of the gas setup was that the selector valve used fuel pressure to activate it. Is the diesel tank selector valve that much more simpler?
 

·
BANNED by Kris
Joined
·
6,316 Posts
Tank -> selector -> pre-pump filter -> pump -> post-pump filter -> engine...

The selector is electric solenoid activated.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
22 Posts
ok guys got a question i got a 97 250 with a e40d trans the guy that owend it before me said he had to put a couple of trannys in the truck cause of the light at the back of the cab kept burning it up caused the torque not to lock up but anyways he said he rebuilt it and put a john woods pan on it and something about the pump to keep up with it if that sounds right the trans gauge doest hardly get above 150 or 165 degrees the truck shifts smooth and when it goes to overdrive it goes in hard could someone give me any ideas of what could possible be done to it i know its best guess but i dont know just let me know what all you guys think
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
686 Posts
Tank -> selector -> pre-pump filter -> pump -> post-pump filter -> engine...

The selector is electric solenoid activated.
OK thanks! Sounds much simpler. Lots of good info and ideas in this thread!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
362 Posts
So the plumbing for the fuel sounds pretty straight forward but what about the electrical wiring stuff?
Also, what filters work best?
The pre-pump filter should be course and the post-pump filter should be fine?
How many microns should these be or what actual filters are y'all using?
 

·
BANNED by Kris
Joined
·
6,316 Posts
So the plumbing for the fuel sounds pretty straight forward but what about the electrical wiring stuff?

Power wire from a power source ( Battery ) through a relay from post 30 to 87, to an oil pressure switch (for safety), and finally to the + side of the pump. Run the fuel bowl heater wire to post 86 on the relay and out 85 to hard ground. This setup will not "prime" the system before start. If you want that don't use the oil switch. Personally I like the feeling that in an accident the fuel will kill itself with loss of oil pressure. Other people like to use Multi-Directional impact switches instead of the oil switch. Whatever floats your boat.

Also, what filters work best?

I use Wix/NAPA/Stanadyne filters (33911 & 33912 / 3911 & 3912 / FM100, they are all the same builder) these use CAT cam-lock attachment systems which can be a pain in the butt. Glass bowls can be added with more money spent. For all the complaining that goes on here about ground clearance glass bowls are not for you.

The pre-pump filter should be course and the post-pump filter should be fine?

yep

How many microns should these be or what actual filters are y'all using?

30 micros pre and 5 post for me.
^ See above please ^
 
  • Like
Reactions: judgesblind

·
Registered
Joined
·
362 Posts
Great information!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
705 Posts
Maybe this has already been asked, but what about fuel/water separation?
 
61 - 80 of 98 Posts
Top