In case Dan was a little vague, the two lines at the rear of the heads are fed from the pump. The two line at the front of the heads are the return lines that go into each side of the regulator and the third line from the regulator is the return to tank switch.Im trying to understand this fuel system. The lines coming off the back of the heads just need to tie into the return line to the tank? And the fpr has 3 hose fittings, 1 for fuel in, 1 for fuel to heads and 1 for ???.
^ See above please ^So the plumbing for the fuel sounds pretty straight forward but what about the electrical wiring stuff?
Power wire from a power source ( Battery ) through a relay from post 30 to 87, to an oil pressure switch (for safety), and finally to the + side of the pump. Run the fuel bowl heater wire to post 86 on the relay and out 85 to hard ground. This setup will not "prime" the system before start. If you want that don't use the oil switch. Personally I like the feeling that in an accident the fuel will kill itself with loss of oil pressure. Other people like to use Multi-Directional impact switches instead of the oil switch. Whatever floats your boat.
Also, what filters work best?
I use Wix/NAPA/Stanadyne filters (33911 & 33912 / 3911 & 3912 / FM100, they are all the same builder) these use CAT cam-lock attachment systems which can be a pain in the butt. Glass bowls can be added with more money spent. For all the complaining that goes on here about ground clearance glass bowls are not for you.
The pre-pump filter should be course and the post-pump filter should be fine?
How many microns should these be or what actual filters are y'all using?
30 micros pre and 5 post for me.