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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello brand new to this forum. Typically don’t join these just search them. I have 2005 6.0 that puts out plums of white smoke after a short drive or long drive for that matter. Then clears after it’s been idling for about 2 3 minutes. Puts out one big puff when accelerating then just disappears. But doesn’t start smoking right after I drive it down the road until it has been idling for about 30 seconds after the previous run. Will not continuously smoke at idle or when cold. I have thrown many parts at it. It was bulletproofed when I purchased it. Has 80k on original engine. I have replaced the turbo seals. After many other parts finally took it to the local diesel mechanic. He hooked it up to his machine and stated that all the cylinders showing 90% or better for compression. Said the computer showed number 4 injector was bad. Well I replaced that injector today with no change of white smoke. Used a Ford reman injector and the the bearing plus turbo seals from KCs. Any thoughts? I’m just lost.
 

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Do you have the EGR still? This has similar symptoms to when my EGR was going bad before it popped.

Loss of coolant at all from the degas bottle ?


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This is not a stupid question but do you know where on your 6.0L engine #4 is? Most Ford VEE engines number the cylinders in sequence, right bank 1,2,3,4 and left bank 5,6,7,8. Navistar does it differently, right bank 1,3,5,7 and left bank 2,4,6,8. I have seen guys miss that including tech's... it happens. I may have done that once myself but never admit to it. ;)
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By the way, scan tools cannot tell you what your compression actually is. It's a "relative compression" test that compares all cylinders by measuring crankshaft speed variations. Any low readings indicate a base engine concern and would need to be followed up with a manual compression test and a cylinder leak test on cylinders with low compression if necessary. "90% or better in all cylinders" is kinda vague in my opinion. If you have six cylinders at 100% and one or two below, especially 90% a 10% difference is something to look into. It could be a washed down cylinder causing a lower number though and compression problems generally are not intermittent. Your problem seems to be intermittent and an injector definitely could cause your smoke.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
I said the same thing to the tech. He said it hasn’t failed him yet. But realized it may not be 100% correct. And yes according to your diagram I did replace the correct injector. Side note when I had the turbo out I did notice that the housing that the bearing rides on was a little scratched up. But no oil was present on the hot side of the turbo. Also I smells like burning oil to me. Can you put videos on here? Maybe that would help. Btw when cranking with the just power to the starter it’s very even sounding
 

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Is there a way to run the truck and unplug each injector one at a time?
AE will allow you turn injectors off and on one at a time. Makes finding the culprit easy (if its an injector).

In case I missed it, does the smoke smell like raw diesel or is it steam?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
AE will allow you turn injectors off and on one at a time. Makes finding the culprit easy (if its an injector).

In case I missed it, does the smoke smell like raw diesel or is it steam?
And it smells like diesel. If you drive it around the block it smells like oil as well. But that might be something else under the hood. It’s hard to tell. Just trying to straighten up this truck. I’ve only driven it 6000 miles since I bought it. It’s now parked cuz I’m worried about burning up a cylinder.
 

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IMO you need a real, not cheap software based/laptop program to run all tests and diagnose this. In addition to all the basic voltage and pressure tests, I would look at cylinder contribution tests, injector tests, and then injector off/on one by one test. If your sure its white smoke/raw diesel, which should be obvious standing near the exhaust, it could be something as simple as a cracked injector tip or who knows what. First narrow it down for sure to which cylinder (if thats the case) and stop guessing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Ya I’m no expert mechanic. But I’ve never had anything to the shop except this. Was just on trying to save time and not just throw parts at it. I wait tables at local bbq restaurant. So I’m not money bags guy either. It’s not my main vehicle. It’s just for pulling boats and my 68 bronco from time to time. Anyway my brother is pretty good with computers and we played with turning the boost down to almost nothing. And opened the vanes all the way at idle. Smoking stopped. Kept the boost down to 3psi for a drive no more smoke. So I’m thinking the housing where bearing for the turbo rides on was just to far gone to except my rebuild attempt. Or maybe it stopped cuz I turned the boost so far down it wasn’t pulling as much fuel as when the boost was at a normal level. Thinking about ordering a turbo now. Lmk if I’m on to something or I’m on something. Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
We were also turned each injector off one at a time. The smoke never changed. Only smokes after i drive it then stop at a stoplight or a big puff when I take off from a light. Takes about 10 minutes of idle for the smoke to completely go away.
 

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Sounds like something may be leaking diesel if you are sure the exhaust is unburnt diesel and not coolant.

If it is diesel, I wonder if the secondary fuel filter bubble test would be appropriate to determine if cylinder gasses are making their way into the fuel system? Just a guess though.


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Air filter clean? -- no mouse nest inside?
Restriction on the intake side can cause oil to be sucked past the intake valve stems -- stems will show as a puff when you first accelerate
or thru the turbo -- this shows as a steady stream, getting worse with RPM
Excess blow-by will cause oil to backup in the turbo drain, and overcome the seals -- Have you checked with the oil cap off?

Also Forscan and the BAFX or OBDLink MX+ on a laptop is the way to go
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I think the blow by isn’t a factor. I can set the cap on the oil fill tube and it just sits there. I tried driving for about 15 minutes with the cap off to see if it was the ccv I didn’t notice anything different. I’m scared to drive much because if it is stuck open injector I don’t want burn a cylinder down. But it smells of burning oil for sure. I thought it was both oil and diesel at first. But I’m leaning towards the smoke is burnt oil.
 

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Pull that air filter and look in the housing and air inlet -- there have been all kinds of critters build a nest in there
need to verify that the air path is clean
 
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