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Discussion Starter #42
Mechanic was more than fair with his evaluation of the truck. Quoted using OEM parts and realistic labor rates, just a lot to swallow at once. He’s gonna service the transmission and rear diff before we take it home, since they’re already open. Gonna have the body/glass guy take a look at the rust.

In short, in its current state, the truck needs:
1. Injectors. Recommended changing UVCH, glow plugs, etc. preventively while doing the injectors.
2. Full front suspension rebuild (everything is original)
3. Shocks all around
4. Rear brake resurfacing
5. Center support bearing replacement
6. Front diff reseal/service
7. Transfer case service
8. Tracking down a potential oil leak
9. Fixing GEM related issues (basically non working 4wd)
10. Finding that god damn rattle. Thinks it’s along the front of the exhaust. Hopefully an aftermarket exhaust fixes it
11. Tires, coolant flush, brake bleeding
 

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Trans looks good. Change the fluid & filter every 30-40k and find a way to be able to monitor temps. Put a 6.0 cooler on it if necessary. My stock trans went 337k miles before I pulled it. It was still working, just swapped out for preventative maintenance


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Discussion Starter #44 (Edited)
Truck is back in my hands. Put some Archoil in the oil. CCT shows misfires on 1, 3, 4, 8. Gonna try putting some mileage on it tonight to see if the misfire clears. Will also see if it cold cranks tomorrow. Still throwing intake air heater, P0476 exhaust pressure control valve, and 4wd/trans shift/control plate codes from before.

Mechanic took me on a test drive. Truck shifts pretty damn hard, and it has a bad shake/vibration (most noticeable in steering) around 4th/OD. Not sure if the problem started after trans service or if it was pre-existing. He suspected that the torque converter might be going out. It also clunks when putting it in/out of gear.

Could this be related to the 3rd brake light being burnt out? Perhaps it's not engaging the torque converter properly? I just popped in a replacement 3rd brake light bulb. Cruise control and 4wd do not work. Dash board lights work, but neither will engage when you try using them. Or maybe it's from the exhaust pressure control valve fault?
 

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Discussion Starter #45
Didn’t start twice this morning, came on the third time, RPMs surging and misfiring pretty bad. Giving it gas makes it better. Noticed significant oil leak/residue on ICP sensor, could that be it? Doesn’t make a ton of different whenever I’ve pulled it out.
 

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Sounds like you’re in for replacing the trans. Maybe have a dedicated trans shop diagnose it just to be safe. Your 3rd brake light would have no effect whatsoever on your trans

You can try putting more miles on it to see if the injectors clear up, but I’d figure on replacing them too.

Don’t worry about exhaust valve control malfunction. Most people disable them anyway. That may be why it’s showing a code, someone’s already disabled it


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Discussion Starter #47 (Edited)
Sounds like you’re in for replacing the trans. Maybe have a dedicated trans shop diagnose it just to be safe. Your 3rd brake light would have no effect whatsoever on your trans

You can try putting more miles on it to see if the injectors clear up, but I’d figure on replacing them too.

Don’t worry about exhaust valve control malfunction. Most people disable them anyway. That may be why it’s showing a code, someone’s already disabled it


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The trans fluid was clean and there weren’t significant metal flakes on the magnet. I would hope the transmission is okay. After many miles of abuse, I’d guess it has been rebuilt at some point. I’ll have a trans shop take a look once it’s running ok. I’ve seen discussions about 3rd brake light and trailer brake interference with torque converter operation. I should probably find a way to disable the trailer brake controller installed under the dash.

I’m hoping the issue isn’t serious, worst case maybe related to the torque converter or flex plate. There’s an old starter in the backseat, so maybe they messed up the install and it’s causing the jingling noise.
 

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Mechanic was more than fair with his evaluation of the truck. Quoted using OEM parts and realistic labor rates, just a lot to swallow at once. He’s gonna service the transmission and rear diff before we take it home, since they’re already open. Gonna have the body/glass guy take a look at the rust.

In short, in its current state, the truck needs:
1. Injectors. Recommended changing UVCH, glow plugs, etc. preventively while doing the injectors.
2. Full front suspension rebuild (everything is original)
3. Shocks all around
4. Rear brake resurfacing
5. Center support bearing replacement
6. Front diff reseal/service
7. Transfer case service
8. Tracking down a potential oil leak
9. Fixing GEM related issues (basically non working 4wd)
10. Finding that god damn rattle. Thinks it’s along the front of the exhaust. Hopefully an aftermarket exhaust fixes it
11. Tires, coolant flush, brake bleeding

The mechanic's list looks more like service or maintenance list to me. Is this one from a verified diesel guy who is familiar with these engines?
 

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Discussion Starter #51 (Edited)
replace with new...looks like a ground strap.
Gonna try to hunt down where it goes.

The mechanic's list looks more like service or maintenance list to me. Is this one from a verified diesel guy who is familiar with these engines?
He's a Powerstroke "specialist", former diesel tech. He figured the engine compression was okay just from the cranking, and that the turbocharger was in good condition after inspection, so it brings us back to injection/fuel issues.

My current plan of action is:
-Tear out the fusebox, GEM, and cluster so I can see what's burnt/rusted. Some lights not illuminating on the dash and/or throwing codes, like parking brake and 4x4.

-Get some fuel in the truck and drive it to run errands, letting the Archoil do it's thing

-Potentially look into getting new injectors (please give stock injector suggestions!)

-With enough prayer and luck, hopefully chasing down the codes/shorts. Gonna delete intake air heater, one less thing to worry about.

-Have body shop pull glass and assess the rust

-Have a transmission shop test drive it. Mechanic complained about lack of power, shifting hard, clunking in/out of drive, torque converter acting funny around 4th/OD, bad vibration in steering, and converter potentially causing the rattle. Changed out the 3rd brake light, maybe that fixes some problems.

-Rebuild front and rear suspension, tires, brakes, alignment

-Front diff service, transfer case service, coolant flush, brake flush
 

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Discussion Starter #52
Just checked service sheet and noticed mechanic used 75-90 in the rear diff (no mention of additive) and Mercon LV in the transmission. Aren't these the wrong fluids?
 

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Just checked service sheet and noticed mechanic used 75-90 in the rear diff (no mention of additive) and Mercon LV in the transmission. Aren't these the wrong fluids?
I THOUGHT YOU SAID THIS DUDE WAS A POWERSTROKE SPECIALIST?....

YET.....HE USES THE WRONG FLUIDS IN YOUR TRUCK.....WOW!....

SO.....ARE YOU LETTING THIS MECHANIC JUST TAKE APART YOUR TRUCK AND CHARGE YOU FOR THE REPAIRS.....

OR ARE YOU JUST HAVING THINGS CHECKED OUT AND YOU WILL DECIDE WHEN AND IF THE REPAIRS GET DONE NOW OR LATER?....

I WOULDN'T BE CHANGING TRANSMISSION FLUID AND FILTERS.....OR REAR END FLUID BEFORE GETTING THE ENGINE RUNNING CORRECTLY FIRST.....

ALSO.....CHANGE THE CARRIER BREARING BEFORE YOU HAVE THE TRANSMISSION TESTED.....YOU CANNOT ACCURATELY TEST THE TRANSMISSION IF THE DIRVE SHAFT / CARRIER BEARING IS NOT WORKING PROPERLY.....YOU WILL HEAR NOISES AND HAVE VIBRATIONS THAT CAN BE MISTAKENLY ASSOCIATED WITH THE TRANSMISSION.....

JUST MY OPINION.....
 

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Discussion Starter #54
He pulled the rear diff cover and transmission pan during the inspection and twisted my arm for a “service” since they obviously need the fluid refilled. I just wanted to make sure the transmission and gears weren’t trashed. Not sure if I should ask him to make it right, or just cut my losses and do it myself at home. Don’t want anyone else ****ing with my truck, honestly. Expensive lesson learned.

I think 75w-90 is “technically” acceptable according to some sources, but might need some LSD additive. However, I think the trans needs to be completely flushed and refilled. He only billed me for 10 quarts of fluid, and if I’m not mistaken it takes 20 quarts for a full flush. Ridiculous.
 

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10 qts is correct for a drain and fill. If he charged you for a flush, that’s wrong. But a drain and fill should be all you need


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Discussion Starter #57
I personally don’t think it’s appropriate to mix fluid types, especially if you don’t know what’s in the transmission already. I’m thinking of completely flushing the transmission and running Motorcraft Mercon V. I’m not sure what Wolf’s Head is, and Ford isn’t on their approved applications list. It might just be a licensing thing, but I’m not trying to risk the transmission. Already have enough **** to fix.
 

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He said he used Wolfshead ATF synthetic. Never heard of it. Any ideas?
WOLF'S HEAD HAS BEEN AROUND FOR DECADES.....IT USED TO BE THE STANDARD FLUID USED AT THE CADILLAC DEALERSHIPS.....IT IS GOOD STUFF.....

BUT I DON'T KNOW IF HE USED THE RIGHT FORMULA FOR A FORD POWERSTROKE TRANSMISSION.....YOU WOULD HAVE TO CHECK WITH FORD FOR THAT ONE.....
 

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Discussion Starter #59
WOLF'S HEAD HAS BEEN AROUND FOR DECADES.....IT USED TO BE THE STANDARD FLUID USED AT THE CADILLAC DEALERSHIPS.....IT IS GOOD STUFF.....

BUT I DON'T KNOW IF HE USED THE RIGHT FORMULA FOR A FORD POWERSTROKE TRANSMISSION.....YOU WOULD HAVE TO CHECK WITH FORD FOR THAT ONE.....
It’s not on the approved list according to manufacturer, and the shop’s quote didn’t specify this fluid, it said Mercon. I don’t think the transmission will explode if I drive and get gas or something, but I’ll change it out once I fix the major issues.
 
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