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Discussion Starter #22
Managed to start it up after a couple more tries, the outside temp was also higher (60 vs 80 f). Idling rough and chattering when it actually starts.
 

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No start video. Compression-wise, does it sound like a steady crank? Maybe CPS going bad?
cranking speed sounds great. Compression sounds good as well.

Can you remove the valve covers to see if all 8 injectors have oil coming from the spouts indicating they are attempting to fire? If some of the injectors don't show oil, then a shim kit is your next move (provided the glow plug system is good)
 

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Discussion Starter #27
Good lord what a long day. I checked the GPR (drivers side big connection and ground) with a multimeter. It was consistently reading around 12, whether engine on or off. Not sure if I did that test wrong.

Found the block heater, cleaned it and ensured that it still works.

Found a small nick in that harness plug I posted above, wrapped it with electrical tape. Engine starts when warm, but misfires (albeit less severely than before). CCT flagging cylinders 1 and 3 as problematic.

I know I caused an information overload. I was just dumping my findings all day.

To summarize current issues:

1. Hard start/no start when cold (Tach doesn’t really move when cranking).

2. Misfiring once started, raising codes from cylinders one and three. Also raising codes for intake heater and Exhaust, previously mentioned.

3. Noticeable amount of smoke coming from driver’s side of motor, perhaps from the bottom end

4. Constant clanging noise, much like a tambourine, especially at idle. Guessing something is loose along exhaust or transmission related?

5. Various codes being pulled from GEM, shown below. 4wd does not work at all, but the 4wd dash lights do work.
c1446
b1575
p1867
p1812
b1462
p1876
 

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GPR will show 12v on the "hot" side of the relay which is directly connected to the batteries. The glow plug side of the relay will only show voltage when the PCM is commanding the glow plugs to be on (first keyed to on) by grounding the relay, for up to 2 minutes once the key is first turned to the on position depending on oil temperature.

You can measure voltage drop across the relay when energized. However that doesn't prove how many amps are going to the glow plugs. Did you try jumping the glow plug relay (large posts) for at least 30 seconds prior to starting?

Does the smoke/rough running clear up once the engine is up to temperature (more than 5 minutes after starting) ?
 

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Discussion Starter #29
The truck wouldn’t turn on this morning when it was cold. However, when I tried cranking it this afternoon, it started up pretty easily. It was consistently misfiring, so I cleared all codes and ran CCT again. Same exhaust manifold and intake heater codes, also flagging cylinders 1, 3, and 8. Seems like 4 and 8 will occasionally pop up, but 1 and 3 consistently come up.

Assuming I’d jump the GP relay when it’s cold to see if it fires up? Mechanic gonna swing by tonight to take a basic look. Right now my bigger concern is windshield rust.
 

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Discussion Starter #30
A trusted mechanic came out last night to take a quick look. Of course, the truck cranked up no problem in the freezing cold. It also wasn't misfiring too badly. Based on the cranking sound, he also thinks the compression is normal, and that it probably has an OEM rebuilt 7.3 in it. He's the second mechanic to suggest bad/dirty injectors (the other guy was an International diesel tech). He recommended using Archoil in the oil and fuel, followed by putting some mileage on the truck to see if the misfire will clear up. His logic was that it's cheaper and easier to try the additives before shimming or replacing injectors. Just ordered both additives for like $70 off Amazon.

Apart from that, he said the roof rust is gonna cost me a thousand bucks easily. Not sure what to do regarding the rust and paint at this point. Hoping it's possible to grind, primer, and paint-match rattle can the bad parts of the truck.

He also mentioned that the play in the steering is likely from the power steering box going out, and that the GEM-related electrical gremlins are going to be a pain in the *** to figure out. It's just the 4WD acting up for the most part, so it's not too pressing. Finally, he thinks the tambourine rattle is coming from somewhere along the exhaust. I'm thinking it might have leaking up-pipes or something, since smoke seems to be coming from the bottom of the engine on drivers side.
 

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When it's cold, if you pull the valve covers and try cranking you'll be able to see which injectors are trying to fire by looking at the oil spouts. Oil indicated the injector is firing, no oil indicates it's not. Most of the time shimming the armature with a $100 ebay kit cures this problem and buys you some time before a complete injector replacement is necessary.

The steering box can be "adjusted" by putting the wheel straight and loosening the lock nut on the top of the box, then slowly turn the preload screw 1/4 of a turn at a time until the box tightens up. If it binds or doesn't return to center after making a turn you need to loosen it back up a bit.

Archoil is good stuff!
 

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Discussion Starter #33
Just sent it off to a Powerstroke specialist shop. I think it’s about time to have a professional take a look. It’s 100 degrees outside and I got sunburned just trying to change the turn signal bulbs (previous owner switched the screws with bolts and misaligned everything).

He won’t charge me for diagnosis if he ends up doing the repairs. Otherwise, he’ll charge around an hour of labor @ $140 per hour. Sounds fair enough. He’s also an archoil dealer, so I’ll probably ask him to add some. Now we wait...
 

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Discussion Starter #34
Dude jacked it up and will give me a full rundown today or tomorrow. He says everything will be preliminary, since more issues will probably pop up once the truck is drivable. Estimating $10,000 to get it mechanically solid, $20,000 to get it like-new mechanically and cosmetically. I was expecting a couple grand in repairs, as I'm not trying to spend anywhere near $10,000.

Based on his short test drive, the truck doesn't steer well and has a lack of power.

So far, from inspection:
1. Misfire probably from injectors. He can replace injectors (using OEM remanufactured), glow plugs, UVCH, etc. for around $4k. I think it's prudent to try Archoil and/or shim kit before going down that route. I thought all that stuff could be replaced in an hour or two? Labor cost sounds high.
2. CCV was not connected, which was causing the under-hood smoke. He doesn't see any blowby.
3. Brakes have pads, but rotors should be resurfaced since it's been sitting for so long.
4. Rear diff clearly leaking, unknown whether the gears have sustained damage
5. Center support bearing is shot
6. One front shock was disconnected (!!!)
7. Front suspension is totally original, components probably need replacement. Quoted ball joints at $2,500 to give me a rough estimate of how much this might cost...
8. Exhaust clunking from somewhere, investigating further.
9. Needs tires for sure
10. Still hasn't addressed the non-working 4x4 or electrical issues

I'm at a difficult crossroad right now. I have nowhere near $10,000 or $20,000 for this project truck. I was trying to get it mechanically straight and cosmetically acceptable closer to $5,000, all-in. Figured it might need $1,000 injectors, full fluid/filter/gasket change closer to $500, couple of old components needing replacement factor $1,000, and rust repair/rattle can repaint $1,000.
 

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I’m not sure what your abilities are or if you have a place to work on the truck, but those prices seem a little high even for a shop.

All 4 ball joints were done on my truck by a shop by the previous owner. The bill was $1200 not $2500. Maybe he was figuring on replacing other front end components for that price..?

You can get injectors for around $1200-$1400 from Full Force and replace with simple hand tools if you need them. Add $80 for new glow plugs. No need to do the UVCHs unless they are in bad shape.

Center support bearing is less than $100, and doesn’t take too much time

Sourcing a GEM would be my biggest concern, assuming you’re 100% sure that is the cause of your issues. It’s easy to replace once you have a new one

Just throwing things out there....
 

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Discussion Starter #36
Absolutely, his labor rates are quite high. Not sure how much a full suspension rebuild would cost though. Figure around $1000 for front parts, $300 for rear parts?
Transmission, brakes/steering, cooling system, differentials, and transfer case all need to be serviced as well. Not sure which ones are doable without a lift. I have basic mechanical inclination, average assortment of tools, and a driveway. I'm hoping to tackle everything that doesn't require special tools or a lift.
 

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Trans, brakes, cooling system, transfer case, diffs, all can be done without a lift. All you’ll need is a floor jack to lift 1 wheel to do the brakes


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #38 (Edited)
Trans, brakes, cooling system, transfer case, diffs, all can be done without a lift. All you’ll need is a floor jack to lift 1 wheel to do the brakes


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
My main concern is the transmission, since it’s the “weak link” of the truck and likely abused. There’s enough space to fully drain and change trans filter without a Jack?

unexpected rain today about to cost me a gem module.
 
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