[Lumberg]

*Damn Liberals. Clean up all the extra lube that squirted out when you torqued the studs. It doesn’t matter that its assembly lube – it has particles in it. But they’re good and slippery, youre probably thinking. At 3,000 psi, the injector firing pressure, all particles are abrasive.

*Find a small oil bottle. Any small bottle resembling ketchup and mustard bottles at the hot dog stand will be best. If you have to improvise, find something with a lid and a tiny hole :nod: to control the amount of oil coming out so that you can use only one drop if you choose to. Wash it out. WD-40 it out a couple of times to get the rest of the water. Then brake clean it and put FRESH oil in there. I wouldn’t go any more than half-full so the bottle will have a tendency to stand upright and balance easier.

*Turning the corner. Injectors in. Vacuum sleeve with small hose. Insert them into the head in SLOW MOTION. Do not nick the o-rings. Lube with fresh oil. I would suggest that you keep the are between the lower o-ring and the copper gasket clean of oil – there is nothing in there but hot air and you’ll eventually end up with varnish. Oil rail in. Use a fresh cloth and fresh oil to wipe the ball tubes that will insert into the top of the injector. HP oil stand pipes. F’d at the drive-thru again. 10mm hex gets your old pipes out vs. 12mm hex to install the new set. They don’t make a 12mm hex that I can remember seeing, so I had to step up from a 3/8 drive to ½ drive. Put this tool on your MUST have before you start list. Write down a full set of size adapters, also. Valve covers one. This was pretty straight forward…until you tried to figure out where the bolts go and where the studs live. The smart money is on drawing a picture of where all the studs and bolts live in your notes and you can save major headaches. Intake on with sinister EGR farewell package. My coolant tube is low and needs to be bent upward to properly meet the cooler outlet. I guess that’s what silicone is for. Mmmm, silicone, now my coolant tube is bending upward.

****Need some assistance**** On the injector harness on the back driver’s side, there is a plastic mount that is built into the harness. Does that go on a studded intake bolt that is on the inner side or the outer side (the bolts are staggered)? I could have inadvertently changed a bolt for a stud. Info: 2005 X-car or equivalent – good guess: 6.0 diesel. It will probably be hidden behind the injector control module on the valve cover. And under the intake pipe. Any assistance will do, thanks.

*Whoopin the ponies. Heat shields and exhaust up pipes in place and finger tight for final adjustments. AC evaporator cover on. Take excellent notes as to where all the screws go, how you get them out, what snap rings you remove and where the clip goes. That would have saved me 30 minutes. Don’t sweat the tin foil heat shield. It is pretty thick and can withstand a little bending. Take care of it and don’t wreck it, you just need to have the confidence that you can bend it around and get you work done, then have it recover to the proper configuration. When you reassemble, use a doubled-up piece of thick cardboard between the black case and the heat shield as a mold to re-form the shield back to shape. This will give it that important stand off so there is a cooler layer of air between it and the case as takes the brunt of the radiant heat coming from the engine and exhaust parts. You absolutely need the pax fender liner out.

Injector harness routed and glow plug harnesses routed. I was happy to see that they glow plug harness is snap together. I was able to salvage 7 of the plugs. I really jacked the ole number sixer up. At least Ill know where to look for that code… New turbo oil drain installed. It doesn’t have a stop tab so you have to measure and mark it to prevent misalignment. Too much work that something like that when they could have tack welded a stop on – F!

Damn tired tonight. Starting with sensor harness and turbo tomorrow. Out.

 

[Lumberg]

Use cardboard between the case and foil like a template as you smooth out your heat shield again. It will sit there nicely with an air gap that you need for the most efficiency you can get from your evaporator. After you take the cardboard out, of course.

 

[2006PSDSD]

Use cardboard between the case and foil like a template as you smooth out your heat shield again. It will sit there nicely with an air gap that you need for the most efficiency you can get from your evaporator. After you take the cardboard out, of course.

I would have never thought of that one :thumb:

 

[Lumberg]

****Need some assistance**** On the injector harness on the back driver’s side, there is a plastic mount that is built into the harness. Does that go on a studded intake bolt that is on the inner side or the outer side ( are the bolts are staggered)? I could have inadvertently changed a bolt for a stud.

The best picture in the 6.0 Bible is on p.74. Unfortunately, its no help because thats not my intake configuration. The 2005 6.0 Bible Update doesnt have picture. I took my time and made lots of notes during disassembly but this one could have found a crack to slip through.

Thanks.

 

[2006PSDSD]

****Need some assistance**** On the injector harness on the back driver’s side, there is a plastic mount that is built into the harness. Does that go on a studded intake bolt that is on the inner side or the outer side ( are the bolts are staggered)? I could have inadvertently changed a bolt for a stud.

The best picture in the 6.0 Bible is on p.74. Unfortunately, its no help because thats not my intake configuration. The 2005 6.0 Bible Update doesnt have picture. I took my time and made lots of notes during disassembly but this one could have found a crack to slip through.

Thanks.

On the 04 I did, there was a stud in those areas where there was a plastic mount. Just swap them :nod:.

 

[dukeyaz]

Awesome write-up. I wish I would have done my own instead of having dealership do it. The service tech was a hack and broke clips, Injector harness, and he did not tighten any of the 3 turbo mounting bolts. When I did the EGR and Oil cooler swap 2 of the 3 bolts were laying on the top of the motor. After doing the EGR and Oil cooler I realized I could of easily have done the heads myself as I had it torn down pretty far at that point.

 

[Lumberg]

Done. No spare parts. No extra fasteners. No loose wires. It runs. On budget. And Ill be practicing karate by lunch tomorrow.
! ! ! F–N CATALINA WINE MIXER ! ! !
:chicken:
Lumberg Out.

 

[Evil Eye]

Congrats, man! Glad to hear. How long did it take cranking before it finally fired?

 

[2006PSDSD]

Asesome Lumberg, congrats :thumb:

 

[Lumberg]

All, thanks for the kind words and support.
2006PSDSD, it turns out that I didnt like the strain on the harness between the mount and the 4 & 6 injector plugs, so I left it resting where it was.
Evil Eye, I disconnected the FICU fuse and cranked the engine over 7 times until I got oil pressure on the gauge. Then I continued to cycle the electric fuel pump a few more times. Put the fuse back in and then tried to crank to start. It it started on the 4th attempt. Ill give you guys all the details shortly.

 

[Lumberg]

*Assembly by braile. As things really started to get moving, things started getting harder and harder to reach. Its not such a big deal on tear-down because you can use one hand a lot to take things off. It’s a different animal trying to put it back together. I became pretty comfortable sitting on the battery tray with my knees and leaning over the engine, so that is how I spent most of my time putting part back on. Often, I would have to look at something, take a mental picture of it, then adjust my position so I had balance, then blindly assemble the part. The Y up-pipe to turbo connection is one of them. Heat shields, FICU, and some of the evaporator screws are some more examples.

*Magnet on a stick. Much better than poo on a stick. And a lot more useful to retrieve the dropped fasteners. Ive never dropped so many ever before. COVER EVEYTHING. No drama to report, but some of these things fall in the damdest places. I wasted 10 intense minutes looking for a turbo oil feed bolt that fell from the top of the turbo. It was hiding next to the pedestal but was nearly impossible to see because of the other parts that I had already put back on. Magnet on a stick to the rescue.

*Time savers.
0) Have the correct tools. Not special tools; the RIGHT tools for the job. I put this at learning point ‘zero’ because it’s a universal truth.
1) Put the turbo on the pedestal before running all of the sensor wiring harness and after the injector harness. You can put the IPR connector on before and drape the rest of the harness over the oil filter housing. And put the oil feed tube on after you run the harness.
2) Don’t stick all the wire holders on the valve cover studs right away because there are other things that go there too. The glow plug module is the worst area for this. Just be patient, there is enough room to gently get the holders on the studs in a logical order in the end.
3) Use a jack stand to hold your turbo down pipe in place so it mates up easier. Its not a flawless procedure but it will get it very, very close. You should still re-torque the band after you run the engine and the flange settles a little. I had to redo my whole exhaust.
4) Take the top boot off of the turbo inducer-to-intercooler pipe completely. You’ve probably read it before but it didn’t stick for me – just like the exhaust, disassemble and put it together one piece at a time in the direction the air flows. I cut corners and I blew that hose off passing 15 psi on what was going to be a full throttle run. Made a new friend who fortunately had a 7/16 deep socket and a set of extensions. 12 Nm is 106 #/inches. Tests good to 26 psi now.
5) Actually follow all of your notes. There aren’t many places that you can swap the order of a step. If there were, you probably would have disassembled it in that order to start with. If its too hard to write, take a picture. And then actually look at the picture when you need it.
6) Stuff it. Stuff every hole with a rag. If it doesn’t keep flying bolts out it will keep the dust out. You don’t want the drama. I got a little overconfident and it almost cost me. The 30 seconds you spend doing it, will reward you with between an hour and a week of saved time – plus any $$ cost along the way.
7) Light it. I have decent lights in my garage. And combined with the light from the sun, I can see almost everything good enough to work on. Even with all that, I need a flashlight to hunt stray nuts and bolts that WILL fall.
8) Get a helper. I don’t mean mother’s little helper, this time. I only needed help a few times – heads off, heads on. A reliable and trustworthy helper will shave hours off of the job. Apparently, Ive been kicked off the EQ board because I didn’t ask those guys to help. At least I have all of you. :wink[3]:

*First crank. I assembled the engine completely. I then pulled the fuse for the FICU so I wouldn’t dry fire the injectors. I didn’t crank but cycled the fuel pump on about 5 times – about 3 additional times than is recommended for a fuel filter change. The next step was to get the oil properly circulated. I cranked the engine over 5 times before I saw the oil pressure gauge rise. I cranked it 2 more times after that. Each crank was for 15 seconds followed by 45 seconds rest to minimize starter overheating. Satisfied with about a dozen cycles of the fuel pump and good oil pressure, I reinstalled the FICU fuse. Now for the real thing; crank, crank, crank, crank – vroom!

4 tries to crank the next time. There is obviously still air in the oil lines. Threw a code and MIL light came on – don’t care; its running. Took it out on the road. Warmed up the truck calmly driving around the neighborhood. After it was warm, I started loading up the engine little by little. That’s when I blew a boot off. Fixed it and leak checked everything with good results. 3 tries to crank this time. Back out on the road in third gear this time and 3,000 rpm for short stretches to really flow the oil and coolant. 74 gallons of coolant and 74 quarts of oil per minute flow at 3,300 rpm. I did about 5 cycles of 1,500 – 3,000 – 1,500 rpm by manually selecting 3rd gear at about 25 mph. I stayed at 3,000 rpm for at least a minute each time.

Got back home, shut it down and cooled it off. I retorqued the turbo (hot) connector rings since the exhaust pipes had settled in a little. Got ½ turn out of each to reach torque spec again. The next crank was about a 2 second start – only slightly longer than normal. Reset the MIL light and cranked again with no codes.

What are your questions?

 

[Evil Eye]

Damn, bud, I can't believe how many little details you remember and you inject it with some humor which makes it interesting. I'll make this a sticky and give you a Premium membership in return for your contribution. Thanks! :thumb:

 

[Lumberg]

Evil Eye, I’m honored and humbled by the fact that my thread has been made sticky and my membership has been upgraded. Thank you.

I really didn’t do all of this by myself. While I was the only person busting knuckles and spinning wrenches on my truck in the driveway and garage, lots of credit goes to many of the great members here because I ‘rode on their coat tails’ by reading their posts and looking at their pictures which gave me the confidence that I COULD take on this challenge with their support and reports of their successes (and some bad luck too).

Let me recognize BryanDowdy, in particular, because I used his photos at: 2006 F250 - BDowdy's Photos extensively to visualize what I was in for and to plan for success. Excellet work, and thanks BD.

Ive been thinking about this the last day or so and have concluded that I have an estimated 80 man hours in my project that I crammed in there over the weeks. 24 hours of that was clocked from setting both heads on the block to engine start. Like I said, plan it, double it, stuff happens. And so it does.

Top 5 time killers:
1) Cleaning the block and cylinders properly
2) Oil cooler rebuild and cleaning
3) Installing driver side cylinder head
4) Injector set inspection and o-ring swap
5) Installing passenger side cylinder head
5) Tied for 5th. Searching for dropped fasteners (total time all added together) * #1 could have easily been retrieving a fastener out of the oil pan.

My parts list for an October 2005 6.0:
VC-9 coolant flush BEFORE starting anything else.
6C3Z-9T515-A oil drain tube for turbo.
4C3Z-9B246-D STC HPOP upgraded discharge tube and anit-torque tool kit.
W302908 (replaces W302195) new design front dummy oil rail plugs (12mm hex!!) one left, one right side.
6E7Z-9A332-A new design high pressure stand pipes (12mm hex!!) one left, one right side.
3C3Z-9229-AA injector o-ring pack, you need 8
3C3Z-9T517-AE/AG new design fuel pressure regulator kit.
F81Z-5A772-AA 30mm rear sway bar (not really an engine component)
2C3Z-5310-HA is a V-code front spring (2 required - not really an engine component)
W302725 breather o-ring seal
MKMCustoms 6.0 solution – head gaskets, exhaust gaskets, intake gaskets, oil cooler, EGR delete, ARP studs, turbo hardware kit.
* $200/month for about 10 months budgeted for parts and tools for this project

Recommended tools and other-than-standard tools:
*Not required for success but saves time and frustration

-REQUIRED-fuel line disconnect tool
-REQUIRED-extra .5 oz of ARP Ultra Lube – I want that peace of mind that I torqued the studs properly.
-REQUIRED-Channel Lock stubby wide mouth for IPR – that’s my opinion, anyway.
-Ziploc bags and note cards to store and label fasteners and parts
-zip ties to hold old bolts and new studs while trapped in the heads during removal and mounting
-full socket extension set in all drive sizes
-full socket adapter set in all drive sizes
-*universal joint socket adapter ¼ and 3/8
-Giant breaker bar in ½ and/or cheater pipe
-18mm deep socket and short socket, ½ drive
-7mm – 19mm deep socket and short socket set (buy additional sockets to fill gaps like 9mm)
-7/32, 7/16, ½, 9/16 deep sockets
-Torque wrenches = #/inches and 10# through 210#/foot settings
-*Torx T-27 for fuel pressure spring (you better get it anyway, there might be something else that slipped my mind at the moment)
-Torx T-40, T-45 long reach brake tools
-*stubby ratchets with flex heads (Harbor Freight!!)
-Hex sockets = 6mm, 10mm, 12mm
-*Hex key set in metric and SAE (fractional)
-*Flare nut wrenches SAE
-*powered rotary tool to clean mating surfaces with scotch brite
-Scotch brite to clean mating surfaces
-*plastic pry bars for plastic push pin removal
-magnet on a stick
-*assembly lube for pushrods, rockers and bridges
-*small plastic bowls for coolant and oil to dip o-rings in. Aerosol can caps work good.
-*nitrile gloves. Don’t touch oily parts with latex – too slippery and too much drama

Just remember what the Lama told me: “With realization of one's own potential and self-confidence in one's ability, one can build a better 6.0”

 

[2006PSDSD]

Great thread, I'm glad it all went together, with little more than some blood, and a LOT of time :thumb:

 

[nc1500]

Great write up; unfortunatly, the last time I tried to change a blown HP oil line ($150) it wound up costing me more than $2,000. The next time I will concede to the professionals and save time, money, a fender and headlight assembly!

 

[Lumberg]

Thanks. I hope people can get a lot out of it and maybe help build their confidence that they can perform these upgrades and repairs – it just takes some time and patience. And maybe a little help here and there.

I see there are a few points made about how much time it took me. I just want to emphasize that I did all this with strictly hand tools – 99% of it – no powered tools for disassembly or rebuild. I used a die grinder and attachments to buff out the block and head mating surfaces, though. I cleaned the dickens out of everything I touched, too – that took a while. That was my choice, so don’t freak yourself out when you read how much time I put into this project. It can be, and has been done much, much faster.

Nc1500, I see your sig. I just did my V-code install the other day after work along with the 30mm sway bar a few days before that. That extra inch of suspension travel is a big relief from banging the gray out of the bump stops the way I used to. I found that it makes a lot more sense with my ’05 X-car to mount the new spring to the axle to line up the pins BEFORE hanging the springs. It was completely impossible and equally dangerous to try it the other way. The spring went on best for me like this: Axle, rear shackle, front hanger. And that old head bolt from the engine I ground down was quite useful to align the bushings. Maybe Santa will bring me some B-codes for the back.

 

[sinner6.0L]

Ignore the picture on forddoctorsdts. Plastic has no business in this engine – it’s an alignment tool.

the picture on DTS was an earlier STC fix, it came out before the solid style we use now. the kit was a new fitting and bracket to to keep the branch tube in place when it failed

nice work on the injector hold down socket too. i have a few of those i made also

 

[LTRMC02]

Awesome write up Lumberg, I've printed it out and am in the process of tearing mine down now. One thing I didn't do was flush the cooling system prior as I was concerned of starting the truck the last time I parked it due to the EGR cooler busted and I'm thinking cylinders have coolant in them. Any good Idea of how to flush with it partially tore down or maybe by-pass the new oil cooler for a short period of time after reassembly for a quick flush?

 

[titanreb]

Great thread and totally subscribed. This is my first post and i am about to take on the very same project. Thanks for all the useful info and great humor.
My back is sore and so are my eyes from reading all the great info on this site!

 

[Lumberg]

Thanks for the compliment. It sounds like you have a Kobayahsi Maru situation on your hands. To keep this in perspective, I wasn't really exaggerating when I said I was a diesel-mechanic-wanna-be-poser, so I cant really offer 'blue oval' advice about flushing when partially disassembled. Here's one man's opinion:

Generally speaking and presuming that you will be using VC-9, I would say that it would be tough to flush without getting the engine up to temp unless you removed the thermostat and were able to power the water pump. Even still, there might be another temperature limitation with the system when flushing with VC-9, chemically, that requires the increased temps to properly react with the iron. Temperature affects things like that; and, at the extreme end of it, to illustrate my point, we cant make cold fusion work yet. Just think about that for a second. And similarly, I just cant say you can properly flush the engine the way it was intended with VC-9 while at ambient temperature. The phosphoric acid in there may not treat your components properly. I will defer to the professionals on this one; including gunsmiths that parkerize. That said, a reasonable compromise could be that you might be able to get creative with some compressed air and push out most of the old, bad coolant and particles trapped in the rear heating lines and other hoses. Or maybe you could just find and open the remaining cooling/heating system at the lowest point. That will certainly help.

I cant foresee an easy way to flush your partially disassembled engine without some sort of fabbed parts that probably don't exist in the first place, provided you leave the block in the truck and not at a build/repair/test facility. The next best advice I can offer after the TOTAL coolant drain is the switch to an EC-1 coolant and immediately install a coolant filtration system. Im pretty sure that we can all agree that the cast sand trapped in the block (and to a lesser degree the oxide flakes) is/are much less of a threat than the gooey, gummy solids that precipitate out of the Motorcraft Gold coolant or similar coolants. In summary, it sounds like you're between a rock and a hard place. One possible course of action is: TOTAL drain, finish the repair and reassemble, install coolant filter, properly recharge with EC-1 coolant, hold you head high and know you did the best you could have possibly done with the (crappy) cards you were dealt. The further-optional post-assembly pure distilled water flush with optional VC-9 flush risk would have to be weighed by you from what you discover during tear-down.

After some additional thought, I think the odds for extending your time until failure would tip in your favor with a no-flush-after-reassembly game plan - at least nothing more than necessary to convert to EC-1. I say that only because any 'stuck' particles would be slower to dislodge and clog your new cooler. Now, whether that interval is measured in months or years is anybody's guess.

I yield to the trained professionals for additional advice and/or rebuttal....