Catalina Wine Mixer – or how a below-average diesel mechanic poser can successfully p
Catalina Wine Mixer – or how a below-average diesel mechanic poser can successfully perform a cab-on head stud job in the comfort of his own driveway.
Ive begun the 6.0 ******* garage overhaul with no special tools. Im replacing the head gaskets, ARP studs, STC connect, Oil cooler, HP oil stand pipe, dummy plugs, EGR, fuel pressure regulator, new fat oil drain tube, hogged-out cylinder head banjo bolts, Cat ELC and the requisite o-rings.
I have no friends, so Im doing it all by my lonesome. Just kidding, but I am doing it all by my lonesome. I expect to need help with the heads. Im just OCD when it comes to this, not Atlas. Can I count my Everquest bro’s as my friends?
I have a few lessons to pass to the other folks who would like to try this – and are Chicken$%!*. Most of these might be pretty obvious for a lot of you but Im really talking to the nervous folks that may not know how to eat the elephant.
*Own the 6.0 Bible. Learn it, live it, love it. Write notes to yourself in the margins.
*Chilton’s can fill in most of the blanks. Search the bulletin boards. If in doubt, comb through the 6.0 Bible.
*Plan it. Based on how long some of the other jobs you’ve performed in the past went, project how long this might take you to do.
*Double it. Double the time you think it is going to take you to do it and then add some. Things happen. Hopefully fewer things happen to you after you read this and prepare even more than you thought.
*Spray every bolt you see with Kroil. Or pick your favorite penetrating oil. Do it early and often. There are bonus points awarded if you can dissolve the rust off of the exhaust and turbo pedestal bolts with the spray alone.
*A picture is worth a 1,000 words. Don’t just look at them, study them. Im talking about everyone else who has beat me to it and has posted dozens and dozens of great pictures. I will try to attach some if I can make it work.
*Clean it. A couple of days prior, degrease your engine and components with Stoddard solvent. (That’s [odorless] mineral spirits to people like me and you.) Tops and tails – don’t forget underneath. BTW, I don’t use the ‘green’ solvent. Make up your own mind about what you would like to use.
*Clean out your attic of old clothes and use them as rags for free. You will need a lot of them! Get some extra large trash bags and lots of flat areas (tables) to stack your stuff on. Wear them, get them oily, then just toss them out. Who really cares?
*Drain it. Fuel water separator, radiator, drivers side block plug. Oh, and your savings account, too.
*Eat it. Eat motrin like Pez. Stay hydrated so the meds will work.
*Remove it. Remove the passenger side fender liner. Don’t even think you can get by without removing it. Push in on the upper side above the frame as if you were trying to fold the liner in half. Peel the liner out from under the fender. Push hard. If you break it, it will just probably come out easier. Hands only; or you’ll jack your fender paint.
*Stuff it. Fill every open hole with a clean rag. (Insert joke here.) Keep foreign objects out of your engine!
*It is possible with the fan and clutch installed. Its quite inconvenient and mildly risky – you don’t want to crack the blades. Depending on how old your truck is, the plastic should be resilient enough to just sit there and hang on to the fan shroud.
*It is possible with the AC evaporator installed. Im getting pretty lazy by leaving all these parts in the way. Don’t worry, Im paying it back in spades with bruises, cuts, and 1/8 turns on open end wrenches. Take half the cover off the AC drier or you will never get the other cover off. Its not completely obvious that it is in 2 pieces and you can do that.
*Take notes – and maybe pictures for yourself. I don’t know anyone with a pornographic memory. Do you? Chilton’s wont help. Need to change the oil cooler? ‘1. Disassemble engine. 2.Replace oil cooler with new one. 3. Reassemble engine,’ says Chilton’s.
*Remove the drivers side hoist point. Its on the front of the head and you don’t mess with the banjo bolt on the upper fuel filter. Maybe put it back on to hoist the heads.
*You will probably break a tool. I have already broken a ¼ x 10mm and bent a crow bar. The socket was cheap and deserved it. My craftsman 3/8 breaker bar can take the punishment of a 3-foot cheater pipe, though. The poor crow bar took some awesome punishment as I attempted to unscrew the cooling fan nut. I probably should have left the fan belt on but I got too far ahead of myself thinking that I could go all the way with the fan on. Well, you can. And, like I said, its inconvenient.
*No special tools required - you just need purpose-specific tools to succeed. You must think in…metric. (I would also accept ‘Boats and Ho’s’). Despite all of its flaws, I am quite pleased with the assembly and design of the engine – mechanically speaking. It’s the emission devices that make it over-complicated. The fasteners seem logical and Im a tremendous fan of o-rings. FRTVINTHEA.
A) Extended T-40 3-4 inches long and round. I had to buy a long-reach T-40 in a ‘brake tool’ pack and grind it from a hex into a round shaft to take the injector retainers out and to torque them properly without interference against the side of the injector.
B) ½ inch drive M18 short socket to loosen the head bolts on the firewall. ½ inch to take the torque, but my 3/8 survived. There must be 400 lb/ft of static torque on the head bolts to break them free.
C) Glow plug wiring harness tool. Make yourself a tool out of a thrift store knife. Drill a 25/64 hole (0.40 is the right measurement) near the bottom of the blade of a stout table knife. Cut it to make a ‘U’ shape to grab the glow plug stopper out of the engine. It works great and you only break half of them. Use a drill press and clamps for safety while making it.
D) 3 foot X ~1.5 inch cheater pipe. Longer and it wont clear the radiator so good – that I left in place.
E) Ive got nothing for you on the main fuel line and return. Buy the tool.
F) A jam box with special music. On repeat. Plugged into the outlet.
G) Ratcheting wrenches are the shiznit! Take the other money you save by doing this yourself and buy a set of Gearwrench ratcheting wrenches. You can feel and HEAR the quality. They’re just a little more cash but completely justifiable. You will have to get additional wrenches to fill in the blanks of the set. Lowes is where I go for that. Make sure you can get the wrench off the part before you hit something or you’re proper F’d.
H) Think vacuum. Use of compressed air will guarantee that foreign material will shoot into a place it doesn’t belong – say, gravel into your intake valve and seat. (That’s never happened before.) Change the old lady’s vacuum bag and be a hero. (AFTER you finish vacuuming the skeletal remains of the chipmunk that wanted to warm up under your turbo pedestal.)
*Plan ahead and get all your known replacement parts in advance. Shop around and save loads of dough. And Im talking about W302195 parts, too. (That’s Ford parts)
*Eat motrin like Pez.
*Do your coolant flush BEFORE you replace the oil cooler. Isnt that why you are replacing it in the first place? Budget a full afternoon to do it properly. And about 24 gallons of distilled H2O. VC-9 is Hazmat.
Im probably counting my chickens way too early… Down to the short block. More to follow.
Comments and critiques welcome.