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Catalina Wine Mixer � or how a below-average diesel mechanic poser can successfully p

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Catalina Wine Mixer – or how a below-average diesel mechanic poser can successfully p

Catalina Wine Mixer – or how a below-average diesel mechanic poser can successfully perform a cab-on head stud job in the comfort of his own driveway.

Ive begun the 6.0 ******* garage overhaul with no special tools. Im replacing the head gaskets, ARP studs, STC connect, Oil cooler, HP oil stand pipe, dummy plugs, EGR, fuel pressure regulator, new fat oil drain tube, hogged-out cylinder head banjo bolts, Cat ELC and the requisite o-rings.

I have no friends, so Im doing it all by my lonesome. Just kidding, but I am doing it all by my lonesome. I expect to need help with the heads. Im just OCD when it comes to this, not Atlas. Can I count my Everquest bro’s as my friends?
I have a few lessons to pass to the other folks who would like to try this – and are Chicken$%!*. Most of these might be pretty obvious for a lot of you but Im really talking to the nervous folks that may not know how to eat the elephant.

*Own the 6.0 Bible. Learn it, live it, love it. Write notes to yourself in the margins.
*Chilton’s can fill in most of the blanks. Search the bulletin boards. If in doubt, comb through the 6.0 Bible.
*Plan it. Based on how long some of the other jobs you’ve performed in the past went, project how long this might take you to do.
*Double it. Double the time you think it is going to take you to do it and then add some. Things happen. Hopefully fewer things happen to you after you read this and prepare even more than you thought.
*Spray every bolt you see with Kroil. Or pick your favorite penetrating oil. Do it early and often. There are bonus points awarded if you can dissolve the rust off of the exhaust and turbo pedestal bolts with the spray alone.
*A picture is worth a 1,000 words. Don’t just look at them, study them. Im talking about everyone else who has beat me to it and has posted dozens and dozens of great pictures. I will try to attach some if I can make it work.
*Clean it. A couple of days prior, degrease your engine and components with Stoddard solvent. (That’s [odorless] mineral spirits to people like me and you.) Tops and tails – don’t forget underneath. BTW, I don’t use the ‘green’ solvent. Make up your own mind about what you would like to use.
*Clean out your attic of old clothes and use them as rags for free. You will need a lot of them! Get some extra large trash bags and lots of flat areas (tables) to stack your stuff on. Wear them, get them oily, then just toss them out. Who really cares?
*Drain it. Fuel water separator, radiator, drivers side block plug. Oh, and your savings account, too.
*Eat it. Eat motrin like Pez. Stay hydrated so the meds will work.
*Remove it. Remove the passenger side fender liner. Don’t even think you can get by without removing it. Push in on the upper side above the frame as if you were trying to fold the liner in half. Peel the liner out from under the fender. Push hard. If you break it, it will just probably come out easier. Hands only; or you’ll jack your fender paint.
*Stuff it. Fill every open hole with a clean rag. (Insert joke here.) Keep foreign objects out of your engine!
*It is possible with the fan and clutch installed. Its quite inconvenient and mildly risky – you don’t want to crack the blades. Depending on how old your truck is, the plastic should be resilient enough to just sit there and hang on to the fan shroud.
*It is possible with the AC evaporator installed. Im getting pretty lazy by leaving all these parts in the way. Don’t worry, Im paying it back in spades with bruises, cuts, and 1/8 turns on open end wrenches. Take half the cover off the AC drier or you will never get the other cover off. Its not completely obvious that it is in 2 pieces and you can do that.
*Take notes – and maybe pictures for yourself. I don’t know anyone with a pornographic memory. Do you? Chilton’s wont help. Need to change the oil cooler? ‘1. Disassemble engine. 2.Replace oil cooler with new one. 3. Reassemble engine,’ says Chilton’s.
*Remove the drivers side hoist point. Its on the front of the head and you don’t mess with the banjo bolt on the upper fuel filter. Maybe put it back on to hoist the heads.
*You will probably break a tool. I have already broken a ¼ x 10mm and bent a crow bar. The socket was cheap and deserved it. My craftsman 3/8 breaker bar can take the punishment of a 3-foot cheater pipe, though. The poor crow bar took some awesome punishment as I attempted to unscrew the cooling fan nut. I probably should have left the fan belt on but I got too far ahead of myself thinking that I could go all the way with the fan on. Well, you can. And, like I said, its inconvenient.
*No special tools required - you just need purpose-specific tools to succeed. You must think in…metric. (I would also accept ‘Boats and Ho’s’). Despite all of its flaws, I am quite pleased with the assembly and design of the engine – mechanically speaking. It’s the emission devices that make it over-complicated. The fasteners seem logical and Im a tremendous fan of o-rings. FRTVINTHEA.
A) Extended T-40 3-4 inches long and round. I had to buy a long-reach T-40 in a ‘brake tool’ pack and grind it from a hex into a round shaft to take the injector retainers out and to torque them properly without interference against the side of the injector.
B) ½ inch drive M18 short socket to loosen the head bolts on the firewall. ½ inch to take the torque, but my 3/8 survived. There must be 400 lb/ft of static torque on the head bolts to break them free.
C) Glow plug wiring harness tool. Make yourself a tool out of a thrift store knife. Drill a 25/64 hole (0.40 is the right measurement) near the bottom of the blade of a stout table knife. Cut it to make a ‘U’ shape to grab the glow plug stopper out of the engine. It works great and you only break half of them. Use a drill press and clamps for safety while making it.
D) 3 foot X ~1.5 inch cheater pipe. Longer and it wont clear the radiator so good – that I left in place.
E) Ive got nothing for you on the main fuel line and return. Buy the tool.
F) A jam box with special music. On repeat. Plugged into the outlet.
G) Ratcheting wrenches are the shiznit! Take the other money you save by doing this yourself and buy a set of Gearwrench ratcheting wrenches. You can feel and HEAR the quality. They’re just a little more cash but completely justifiable. You will have to get additional wrenches to fill in the blanks of the set. Lowes is where I go for that. Make sure you can get the wrench off the part before you hit something or you’re proper F’d.
H) Think vacuum. Use of compressed air will guarantee that foreign material will shoot into a place it doesn’t belong – say, gravel into your intake valve and seat. (That’s never happened before.) Change the old lady’s vacuum bag and be a hero. (AFTER you finish vacuuming the skeletal remains of the chipmunk that wanted to warm up under your turbo pedestal.)
*Plan ahead and get all your known replacement parts in advance. Shop around and save loads of dough. And Im talking about W302195 parts, too. (That’s Ford parts)
*Eat motrin like Pez.
*Do your coolant flush BEFORE you replace the oil cooler. Isnt that why you are replacing it in the first place? Budget a full afternoon to do it properly. And about 24 gallons of distilled H2O. VC-9 is Hazmat.

Im probably counting my chickens way too early… Down to the short block. More to follow.
Comments and critiques welcome.
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Go go go! I'm sure I'll be in your shoes sooner than later.
That's freakin' priceless! Can't wait to see the next chapter! :D
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awesome writeup so far...:popcorn2:
Lets see if I can get some pictures to work......


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Leave that banjo bolt and crush washers on there. Remove the hoist point.


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Purpose specific tools.
Glow plug connector remover.
Ground down torx brake tool T-40.
Fuel line disconnect tool.
Clearance problem with injector holddown illustrated with T-40 brake tool.
If you aint cheatin - you havent had a hernia lately.


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It pays to keep organized. Nothing original here - just a great idea.
New dummy plugs for the front of the oil rails.
That po-boy coolant filter mod looks familiar.
Close quarters on the passenger side.
Those 4 head bolts and rocker will have to ride out on the head.


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Nice--very nice. One thing I've seen suggested is removing the motor mounts and rolling/lowering the motor to get easier access to the heads.
Thanks for all the kind words and encouragement. You guys are the greatest.
Clay Henry - SWEET mustache.
npccpartsman - crawled under the Xcar and explored the possibility of what you talked about. I can clearly see the merit in that idea as it would add almost 3 inches clearance and probably just enough opposite angle to coax out the last bolts. It seems that I have some sort of bathtub-like cradle that the engine sits in and that 900 pound engine would probably crush the oil pan if I jacked from there. I dont see an easy way to support it except by the oil pan. Maybe I can figure something out. I plan on using the rubber band/zip tie trick with the captured head bolts at the moment.
The picture attachments on here are friendlier than some of the other boards Ive seen and I hope they are helpful.
* Not much progress today because of wind blowing things around too much and getting debris in the engine - strikes and gutters for us shade tree mechanics. The heads stay on for now and some cleaning will happen in the garage, out of the wind. It has to happen anyway. Got some pretty clear pictures, though, if I do say so myself :wink[3]:
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Several things complete today.

*Ever felt like you’ve been cheated? That fuel pressure regulator kit was something else. It had all sorts of great stuff in there. I was checking it out and couldn’t wait to get in there and rip all the regulator guts out and put it back together. Ive read about it once or twice before – you only really need the spring. There must have been 4 o-rings, 4 new screws, a new cover plate, piston, adapting piston collar for a different version of housing, spring, anti-siphon valve (I think). At the end of the day, that was an awfully expensive spring. If it would have sunk in just a little more, I would have dug the BB out of my *$$, where its been since I was 11, and used it to boost my fuel pressure. Well, at least when I look on the bright side I have a pile of spare parts for items that don’t move or wear out. I hope I don’t lose them. Did you hear that flushing noise? :doh: [All kidding aside, the pressure should remain in the green at a nominal 60-70 psi]

*Pop quiz: What size torx is required to swap the pressure spring? T-25? No, too small. Well, its gotta be a T-30. Standard size and next in line because the T-25 didn’t work. F NO! It’s a T-27!! Is Lumberg gonna have to smack a [email protected]% Who in the hell has a T-27 laying around collecting dust? Would you believe that I actually had one? I didn’t either. The lesson here is to throw down for the Stanley folding torx wrench at Wally World for 7 bones and be your own hero. The Stanley helped safely remove the injector hold downs and properly change out the fuel pressure regulator face place.

*Your EGR is jacked. If you even think that your EGR valve is coked up, it is. I popped my EGR out so that I could begin to clean the intake out and it was about 75% blocked. You might be thinking to yourself – ‘…why is the end of that rope tied to my penis?’, but others are likely thinking ‘what’s the big deal and why are you even bringing it up? Here’s why. The Xcar has 22k on it and isn’t hot rodded and doesn’t pull. Now your probably thinking about that CCV mod. And Im still thinking about smackin the [email protected]% who torqued my cooling fan nut on so tight it may has well have been welded on.

*Thanks pepper boy! Lightly twist the EGR valve back and forth to gently free the carbon deposits and the o-rings. If you get nervous, go easy on it with a little penetrating oil and remember to wipe it down before tilting it to keep the weep holes clear of fluid that could wreck the electronics. No puller tool required in my case. If the intake was mounted on the truck and your driver, I would consider borrowing a puller tool from Vatozone to minimize debris in the intake.

*Pop quiz 2: What is the proper tool to fasten the ARP nut on the stud? Is it a trick question? Depends on the year, right? Maybe. I have the M12.5 head bolts with the 0.498 shaft or grip (insert joke here) – they are removed with a 18mm socket and the breaker and cheater that you’ve seen above. What do I have sitting right beside that socket? You are correct; what is remaining of my right testicle after breaking the head bolts loose without air tools. The 12-point 18mm socket that I wanted to use is right beside that. Ive got some more news for you: THIS IS AMERICA AND WE DON’T BELIEVE IN THE METRIC SYSTEM!! :rules: It didn’t work when Jimmy Carter started it and it doesn’t work now! Well, maybe a little. With that segue, my new shiny 0.531 shafted ARP studs have 11/16 12-pointers for caps. So, off to the store for a 12-pointer I went while I was waiting for my buddy to arrive to help with the heads. 18 = 11/16. WTF?

*Remember the hoist points. Use the hex drive bolts that fasten the hoist points to the rocker box as anchors in the iron head. DO NOT LIFT FROM THE FACTORY HOIST POINTS. Find the pictures below and see where to screw the bolts into both sides of the head in the holes that already exist and are tapped for the exact thread of the hoist fastener bolts. I used a chain and a cherry picker. And a buddy that I trusted not to let the captured head bolts destroy my AC evaporator. And with the hood on – Im lazy that way. The 6.0 Bible calls them Lifting eye bolts.

*There seems to be no way to prevent the head gasket from getting caught in the captured head bolt threads even with the rubber band/zip tie trick. There is just not enough room to back them out and clear the firewall or the AC evaporator. Just get a long pry bar or something and push it off. Or you could just pull the head gasket off with the head. Always use the rubber band/zip tie trick regardless of the results you expect or get because the alternative is a lot more frustrating and risky. I intend to cut the heads off of 4 old head bolts to use as guides for the head when it goes back on so I can easily line up the rest of the head to prevent the captured ARP studs from jacking the new head gasket.

*Pile your old clothes under the truck to catch all the oil and coolant that still dumps out even after all the prep to minimize the carnage. The drive shaft and slip joint were well lubed.

Keep on truckin.
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Passenger head hoist points with whispering eye visible and old radiator hose used to protect the soft aluminum.
Approximate angle of chain under tension on the engine block - but its much closer to the rocker box than illustrated.
Stanley tool. [All hail TOOL!]
Only 22k miles of oil and carbon.


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It is important to keep your shaft well lubed. :thumb:

Glad to hear you are making progress and keeping us entertained as you go... "Is Lumberg gonna have to smack a [email protected]%" :hehe:
Lumbergh called me at home last week for a business trip I needed to take. Back now, like we didn’t skip a beat.

*The ‘c’ word. Climbed into the engine compartment today and cleaned the HPOP cover and popped it off to get to the HPOP. There was a nasty little problem that requires the ICR to be removed. What to do? The thing is a 35mm hex. Adjustable wrench to the rescue! Terrible – F. You’ll see in the pictures that the jaws are enormous and wont fit in the tight spaces designed for the impossibly expensive specialty socket. As I was cussing the thing up one side and down the other, the ‘c’ word popped out. …like sleeve of wizard… What in the devil does this have to do with anything? I’ll tell you what; Channel Lock, as it turns out, makes a handy adjustable wrench that meets every requirement to get that stinking ICR out. It has slender jaws, almost 40mm spread, and about 8 inch overall length that will easily fit under the firewall and let you skin your knuckle when the ICR breaks loose. Its made in Spain. And that’s sucks less than many alternatives. Anyone see the ‘how its made’ episode with Channel Lock?

*… out of you and me. How you gonna torque that mother scratcher back on you ask? I made a series of assumptions that should hold true enough to get me within a few pounds of torque. I carefully marked the where the ICR hex indexed on the HPOP. Here we go: assuming that it was assembled properly with a new o-ring and dry threads to proper torque, that same rotational angle relative to the exact same parts will hold the ICR in there with the same force dry or lubed. So I lubed it down real nice with fresh oil and got ‘er dun. One smooth and controlled motion and it was there. I got the flashlight and took a much closer look. Just another tiny bump and viola!

*The heart of the beast! 3 bolts hold the pump in place and 2 hold the STC in place on an aft branch tube block. As you guessed, its always easy to get things off. …and then I took the pump out… I lifted the pump out easily and placed it right into a sterilized oil pan. This is as close to open heart surgery as you can get with your clothes on, and cab on. And your drink on. You’ll see the pictures of the STC that is apparently some kind of QD fitting. It has no business being on there and Im glad they saw the errors of their ways. It does, however, provide a nice bit of play to allow for minor adjustments due to machining tolerances. The new STC isn’t really that – a STC – at all. Its rock solid and maybe a class 3 and looser fit for similar adjustment.

*You can see the size difference of the two fittings. I sat there for about 15 minutes nervous that the new one would not fit and I have to take the f out of way to make it work. I ran though dozens of scenarios, each more expensive than the next. Then I finally just broke it down. I was relieved to see that the fitting necked into the pump housing and they did, in fact, have the same threads. As it turns out, disassembly was the easy part. I measured 3.605 – 3.655 with play from the pump housing machined flat to the end of the STC. The new one measured 3.655 – 3.640.

*School. I mount the pump back in block to square the new fitting and don’t have enough room to use the 15/16 wrench to tighten the nut. In and out, in and out. Then I put the brace on that came in the kit. Without instructions, I might add. WTF, I got screwed at the drive-through because one of the pump mounting bolts isn’t long enough to grip the brace and bolt into the block. (Ill go ahead and compress the next 3 hours). Anyone played that game Myst? That’s what connector kit 4C3Z-9B246-F is like – an expensive puzzle with NO instructions. Haynes and Chiltons can suck it! And the 6.0 bible was little help for me here as well. Instead of not progressing if you cant figure out the puzzle, the prize for dorking this one away is you get a lawn ornament that everyone and their brother can look and laugh at while you ride the bus to work. “You did what? And it wasn’t broke?” they’ll say. I’ve come to the conclusion on my own – someone stop me if Im wrong – that the ‘brace’ in the kit is actually the anti-torque mechanism that you may have read about. That would also explain the plastic bolts. This and the pictures should save you 2-1/2 hours. Ignore the picture on forddoctorsdts. Plastic has no business in this engine – it’s an alignment tool.

*Pop quiz: What’s under the HPOP? Another weeks work!

*Pop quiz 2: Have you ever played a game called ‘just the tip’? Just for a second…to see how it feels?

*It is what you think it is. That’s the game I started playing when I left out the rags that I placed under the pump the second time I test fit it. You could feel the orange and blue oval putting a little pressure on your balloon knot. The oil getting all the bolts slippery. Using latex gloves today instead of the nitrile gloves. And then…dink, ding, thunk, thunk. Mooooooon River… Using the whole fist, Doc?

Alas, ‘Hope is not a course of action’ – Gen. C. Powell (and probably others before)

Ill have to spare you the rest of the drama with the flashlight because Im too tired. The screw was precariously resting on the camshaft and lifter. Thank you God (and for magnets on a stick)!

New adapter in, cover on, disaster narrowly avoided, done. Pictures up soon. And there is no ‘f’ in ‘way’.
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This is not encouraging me to do my own head studs but, it is freaking hilarious.
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Plan it in advance, take it easy, have all your parts ready, and you will be fine. I had some drama because I was momentarily feeling overconfident and wasnt taking proper precautions that are standard practice. YOU CAN do it!
Old and flawed STC or quick disconnect fitting (left) from HPOP to branch tube block with new design on right. Threads properly machined for installed length.
3/4 view of old fitting mounted in alignment tool without pump. It might also be called the anti-torque tool.
The long plastic bolt in pic 3 would fasten into the HPOP mounting boss.
The tiny but mighty C-lock and a 'standard' 12-incher that cant even compete.


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Great avatar Lumberg, I'll have to read this later :nod:
:popcorn: :popcorn:
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