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Man, I have read so many different numbers my head hurts. I have a 15 CCLB with plow prep if that matters. Just leveled and had it aligned. The caster is -0.6* which I know is wrong. Question is, what is it supposed to be? I have read everything from +2 to +4...... Carli has +2.5 for their level kit which makes sense if it should be in the 2 range. So.....
What is the factory caster?
Should it be slightly more due to the lift?
 

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Oh boy.....should be in the 3*+ range from what I remember reading.
 

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So, I said negative 0.6, but that wasn’t entirely true I guess. Here is the sheet. It appears to be +0.6. I’m guessing if it is supposed to be +3ish that would make even more sense.
I know more about motorcycle suspension and specs than vehicles.
767953
 

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UUUGGGhhhhhhhhh.....yea....you need to be 3*+ .....

Did you install new springs??
 

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It looks like you are +0.6º compared to the spec. camber that this alignment shop is using, which based on the 4.7º & 2.3º limits on their scale, is set at 3.5º. So, your caster is 4.1º, according to this shop's report.
 

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It looks like you are +0.6º compared to the spec. camber that this alignment shop is using, which based on the 4.7º & 2.3º limits on their scale, is set at 3.5º. So, your caster is 4.1º, according to this shop's report.
Ok....I think I am learning something here :D
Limits of 4.7 and 2.3 means the "middle" or "ideal" would be 3.5? (4.7 + 2.3) / 2 = 3.5?
If that is the case, to me, it looks like actual caster is 2.9° (bottom end of scale [2.3]+ positive caster [0.6]) = 2.9°
Or am I thinking too hard? Bottom line, I am trying to see if the Carli 2.5° bushings will be the key to getting caster in the proper range and making the steering less twitchy.

edit- @Roccafellas got in while I was typing. That's what I thought too, since the little arrow is above the bottom end of the scale.
 

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Ok....I think I am learning something here :D
Limits of 4.7 and 2.3 means the "middle" or "ideal" would be 3.5? (4.7 + 2.3) / 2 = 3.5?
If that is the case, to me, it looks like actual caster is 2.9° (bottom end of scale [2.3]+ positive caster [0.6]) = 2.9°
Or am I thinking too hard? Bottom line, I am trying to see if the Carli 2.5° bushings will be the key to getting caster in the proper range and making the steering less twitchy.

If it’s 2.3 on the lower end.. and adding .06 would make it 2.9* to me.. again Im a mechanics apprentice but we have not gotten into alignments yet and I’ve never done one..


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If it’s 2.3 on the lower end.. and adding .06 would make it 2.9* to me.. again Im a mechanics apprentice but we have not gotten into alignments yet and I’ve never done one..


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Yeah I had a brain-fart and went the wrong way, you're right, it looks like it would be 2.9º, NOT 4.1º.... not enough coffee in my system yet!
 

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Yeah I had a brain-fart and went the wrong way, you're right, it looks like it would be 2.9º, NOT 4.1º.... not enough coffee in my system yet!
Okay cool. Well I hope this helps OP

And all good.. too much Rum in mine..
JK. I don’t even drink coffee lol.


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Max 2.3* Negative Caster or Max 4.7* Positive Caster from the center axis of 0* Caster.

The - and + have nothing to do with the numbers. It's related to the vertical axis.
 

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I see the report reading 0.6* of negative caster, you need to be 3* Positive caster or better.

Adding a 2.5* adjustment will get you to 2.1* Positive Caster.

I could be wrong as well, but something tells me we all will soon have a much better understanding....LOL
 

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I see the report reading 0.6* of negative caster, you need to be 3* Positive caster or better.

Adding a 2.5* adjustment will get you to 2.1* Positive Caster.

I could be wrong as well, but something tells me we all will soon have a much better understanding....LOL
“Negative caster angle isn’t a setting used by modern road cars. The self-aligning torque and straight-line stability that is characteristic of positive caster are absent in a negative caster setting. In fact, a “loose” steering wheel and immense front wheel instability would result from a negative caster setup”

So that reading is from slightly positive to more positive. Because negative is impossible

So the reading is 2.9* which is 3.5-0.6 3.5* is the 0 axis as you call it which is the middle where it would be green.. the 0.6 is not negative otherwise it would have a - sign in front of it
Just like camber can actually be - or + but they do not show a + only a - if it is negative..

So this caster reading is set by their machine to read from slightly positive to more positive as negative is NOT used on these cars and is really impossible to have the wheel sitting behind the strut/coil. Whatever assembly the vehicle has..

so I believe the middle is 3.5* which is perfect caster in that measurement reading he is 0.6 to the right so take 0.6 from 3.5 and you are left with 2.9.. so i believe he has 2.9* of positive caster and 3.5* of positive caster is perfect. Which makes sense to what you are saying 3 or higher. But it’s not a negative 0.6 reading. It’s just 0.6 minus 3.5 the centreline.


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Okay...Caster needs to be within 2.3* to 4.7*, you are at 0.6*. Adding a 2.5* bushing should get you where you want to be.

My bad.
 

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Red shading is "out of spec". So the "green" range is 2.3* to 4.7* for the shading to be green. Most SD owners want to see green AND a value of 3*+ caster.

So creep into the reading at 2.4* it would be green....just not optimal for the SD front end.
 
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