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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Or penetrating oil? I'm trying to free up a stuck EGR valve just enough to pass emissions then go back to blocked off and tuned. Trying not to disassemble the entire thing. Can I spray in the throttle body tube or onto the spring on top of the EGR or will it harm it? Currently stuck closed with a p1335. On my 2008 6.4.

And what type of socket do I need to remove the bolts in the last picture? Regular socket doesn't fit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Anybody? The spring on the EGR moves with some effort, and the black cap spring moves easily. So why wouldn't the valve move? Seized inside the super tight hole Ford used? What would you guys do?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks for the reply! It won't damage anything to spray in the throttle tube and onto the EGR spring then? That white stuff on the spring felt like lithium grease. I wonder if that spring area even has an opening to the actual valve setup? Probably not

Gotcha, female torx makes since...the opposite of the male torx that I have for the other screws! Freaking Ford and their weird hardware used...
 

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They are like drive shaft bolts.
The main concern for spraying things in there is the glowplugs being hot.
Just keep the key off and let things evaporate before you fire.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Okay will do, I'll just use a small amount of carb spray. My EGR valve is stuck in the closed position according to the torque app. So I can still drive the truck, it's just heavily reduced power and won't go above 10psi of boost.

If I push that metal spring down by hand, is that opening the valve or keeping it closed? In other words, is down closed and up open? If so, I need a way to pull up on the valve plunger mechanism...which I probably won't be able to do with the system all still assembled.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Well I sprayed the spring and plunger in carb cleaner, manually pushed the spring downs few times and on the next drive the valve operated opening and closing. All looked good but then the next few drives it was stuck closed again with the same code popping up. What could cause the intermittent being stuck closed?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Well it was working fine again today...watching the valve open and close with gas pedal movement all morning. The code is still there but I think it just needs a few drive cycles to clear the code on its own...then directly to the testing center I go. Hopefully it'll work out without having to pull the whole EGR!
 

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FYI if you have a code, it clears, and you go, you'll fail. You'll need at least 100 miles since the code clears for it to pass.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
FYI if you have a code, it clears, and you go, you'll fail. You'll need at least 100 miles since the code clears for it to pass.
I saw this in the owners manual that says 30 minutes of driving. I did unhook the batteries and clear the code upon first start. The code should go away on it's own after completing the drive cycles right?

"Readiness for Inspection/Maintenance (I/M) testing:
In some localities, it may be a legal requirement to pass an I/M test of the on-board diagnostics system. If the indicator is on, refer to the description in the Warning lights and chimes section of the Instrument Cluster chapter. Your vehicle may not pass the I/M test with the indicator on. If the vehicle’s powertrain system or its battery has just been serviced,
the on-board diagnostics system is reset to a “not ready for I/M test” condition. To ready the on-board diagnostics system for I/M testing, a minimum of 30 minutes of city and highway driving is necessary as described below:

• First, at least 10 minutes of driving on an expressway or highway.
• Next, at least 20 minutes driving in stop-and-go, city-type traffic with at least four idle periods.

Allow the vehicle to sit for at least eight hours without starting the engine. Then, start the engine and complete the above driving cycle. The engine must warm up to its normal operating temperature. Once started, do not turn off the engine until the above driving cycle is complete."
 

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That's what it "says." I've found from experience that isn't always the case. So I would plan for at least 100 miles before I went.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Copy that, I'll be sure to drive it a bunch before testing. I can also check the codes and readiness tests in torque pro to make sure they're all passing and the codes have cleared beforehand. I just won't use torque to clear codes anymore cause that'll restart my driving cycle bullcrap!
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I think I'm slowly getting there. Drove it for 45 minutes half highway half city today and finally got the EGR emissions readiness test to pass on the torque pro screen for the first time. I think my problem before was just short drives with engine off in-between stores. I'm surprised EGR passed cause I still have a latched P1335 EGR code. But I know it's working, watching the valve open/close percentage vary with throttle position.

The only emissions test I can't get to pass yet is the Catalyst test. Not sure what I need to do to get that one to pass...and for the code to go away?
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Well I figured out that to get the catalyst emissions test to pass, it just needs to go through a regen cycle. So all tests have passed but the damn check engine light is still on. Does the check engine light ever go away on it's own? I can clear the code with torque, but then I have to go through all the same driving cycles to get the EGR an catalyst readiness tests to pass.
 

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Can you do a forcred regen with forscan? I know on 6.7's if there is a code for an emission related CEL, you can typically do a forced regen and the code would clear on its own. Not sure if it's the same for a 6.4. But, if you clear it or disconnect the batteries you'll have to drive again to get the catalyst to pass.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Well I went in to get tested to see what would happen and it failed...only because it had a check engine light related to emissions. All of the emissions tests passed correctly, but they wouldn't let me pass with the code. They said it was probably a faulty sensor or needed a good cleaning. I don't get why I have the code if the EGR is working and I can see the valve open and close on torqure pro every time I drive it...

So, I guess I can try pulling the whole assembly to give a good cleaning inside the tubes and around the valve. Is there just a sensor I could try replacing, or is it just the whole assembly?
 

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Unfortunately, you might have to buy the whole assembly. When I needed to stock out to get a sticker, I had block off plates. I put everything back to stock 2 months before because I figured I'd have a hard time with it, and I was right. I had an EGR code pop up and no matter what I did, static regen, clean the EGR, it just wouldn't go away. I picked up a new cooler and threw it on, and the light went off on its own. Sometimes it's just one of those things.
 
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