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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi everyone, thanks for taking a look! I'm a little nervous as I'm supposed to be using my truck to pull my camper to go to a family camping trip TOMORROW. I recently replaced the oil cooler and got it all buttoned back up today. Got the truck started then did a quick oil change. After that, I took the truck out for a test drive and there is NO get up to it off the line. Very slow response and then the turbo finally kicks in and the truck dumps black smoke. It is also idling a little rough.

I've been searching the forums and where I'm at now (headlight charging) is to check the screen on the IPR valve, ensure the connections on the FICM are good, and see if there's a possible exhaust leak at the turbo.

What I've checked:
Connections on all injectors are secured.
MAP Sensor and tube are good (Connected/no cracks)
All electrical connections are good

I want to check the VGT where it connects to the turbo. Is there supposed to be a noise difference when it's plugged in compared to when it isn't??

Any help is appreciated as I, of course, find myself in a time crunch. Thanks!
 

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What year is your truck?

Do you have any stored codes?

Did you use an OEM oil filter and oil filter cap during the change?

Yup - when VGT connector is unplugged, the exhaust note should change from a moving airflow noise to more of a low growl like a V8 gasser. If you don't hear a change, it's possible your VGT solenoid is acting up or you have sticky vanes on your turbo.

Best thing to do is you think you have a turbo issue is check MAP, BARO, & EBP sensors KOEO and again after starting the truck. KOEO, they should all be within ~0.5psi of each other. Then, add VGT% to that list and go drive it, while watching the numbers. Take screen shots of all those parameters when the truck is starts acting up.

-jokester
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
What year is your truck?

Do you have any stored codes?

Did you use an OEM oil filter and oil filter cap during the change?

Yup - when VGT connector is unplugged, the exhaust note should change from a moving airflow noise to more of a low growl like a V8 gasser. If you don't hear a change, it's possible your VGT solenoid is acting up or you have sticky vanes on your turbo.

Best thing to do is you think you have a turbo issue is check MAP, BARO, & EBP sensors KOEO and again after starting the truck. KOEO, they should all be within ~0.5psi of each other. Then, add VGT% to that list and go drive it, while watching the numbers. Take screen shots of all those parameters when the truck is starts acting up.

-jokester
Thanks for the reply! It’s a 2004, late model so not the same as the 03/04. The truck isn’t throwing any codes and the dash doesn’t have any lights on. I did make sure to get a OEM filter and I reused the cap.

The sound did change when I unplugged the VGT so I guess that’s good!

I’ll have to program my Scan Gauge to read those but I can do that tonight. I did just find a slight crack in the MAP tube. I cut that off and reinstalled it.

I’m pulling the IPR valve right now to inspect the screen. After that, I’m going to ensure my connections “click” on the FICM when I plug them back in. Then I’ll re-assemble the air filter/tubes, re-connect the batteries and take it on a drive to monitor those values!
 

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Was your cap that you reused a tall one (~3-4") or a shorter one (~1-2")?

Was the port on the intake manifold that the MAP hose attaches to clear? Stick a piece of bailing twine down through the fitting to make sure. You will feel resistance if it isn't. I'd also check and cleak your EBP sensor, tube, and manifold fitting too.

Data usually makes things easier to find. Then again...it might not 😁

-jokester
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Was your cap that you reused a tall one (~3-4") or a shorter one (~1-2")?

Was the port on the intake manifold that the MAP hose attaches to clear? Stick a piece of bailing twine down through the fitting to make sure. You will feel resistance if it isn't. I'd also check and cleak your EBP sensor, tube, and manifold fitting too.

Data usually makes things easier to find. Then again...it might not 😁

-jokester
I’m not sure, it’s the same cap that was on the truck when I got it. It had 104,000 miles when I picked it up and it’s at 187,000 right now.

I just pulled the IPR valve and 1/3 of the screen is torn off/bent in. I’d like to think this is the culprit and I’ll definitely be replacing it, but I just feel like it can’t be this simple. Won’t be able to run any tests tonight as I don’t have a spare screen :/
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
What year is your truck?

Do you have any stored codes?

Did you use an OEM oil filter and oil filter cap during the change?

Yup - when VGT connector is unplugged, the exhaust note should change from a moving airflow noise to more of a low growl like a V8 gasser. If you don't hear a change, it's possible your VGT solenoid is acting up or you have sticky vanes on your turbo.

Best thing to do is you think you have a turbo issue is check MAP, BARO, & EBP sensors KOEO and again after starting the truck. KOEO, they should all be within ~0.5psi of each other. Then, add VGT% to that list and go drive it, while watching the numbers. Take screen shots of all those parameters when the truck is starts acting up.

-jokester
Ok, I got a new screen on the IPR valve and took it on a test drive. Still the same problem. I added VGT% and BAR to my Scan Gauge, MAP was already programmed. My year doesn't allow me to program EBP I guess. I tried plugging in the codes but it wouldn't read anything.

KOEO:
MAP: 12.0
BAR: 11.8
VGT: 0

Idle:
MAP: 12.1
BAR: 11.8
VGT: 85

Idle (Transmission in Drive):
MAP: 12.3
BAR: 11.8
VGT: 85

Driving:
MAP: 19.8
BAR: 11.8
VGT: 53
 

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So many people blow off the advice to be 100% sure of basic items:
OEM oil filter cap and filter
Batteries healthy
Proper fuel pressure

These are not just spurious opinions, they are recommendations that absolutely need to be "nailed down"
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
So many people blow off the advice to be 100% sure of basic items:
OEM oil filter cap and filter
Batteries healthy
Proper fuel pressure

These are not just spurious opinions, they are recommendations that absolutely need to be "nailed down"
Hi Bismic! The oil filter is OEM/Motorcraft and I re-used the cap. I'm not sure if the cap is OEM but I've had it through many oil changes without an issue and it's the same cap that came with the truck when I got it about 80,000 miles ago. My batteries are good to go and while the truck was being worked on, they were disconnected and then hooked to a trickle charger prior to starting up again. I can't read the fuel pressure with the Scan Gauge but the truck starts and idles fine which makes me think the fuel pressure is good. The truck is just boggy off the line and then at about 1,500-2,000 RPMs, the turbo finally kicks in.
 

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What I am saying is that sometimes you don't know if there is an issue or not. On another forum we are talking about a 4mm difference in length with an oil cap and filter combination (involving an aftermarket Purolator filter, but aftermarket caps might do it also) that is leaving the oil drain valve slightly open. Could be an issue with the oil filter housing draining overnight or over a few days. The impact could be lower lubrication flow at start up. Not a good thing, but also probably not something that will cause issues quickly.

Of course I am talking possible long-term lifter issues, and very few people think about reliability consequences past 10k miles. Many of us forum folks desire 300k+ mile longevity/reliability.

Different strokes for different folks. From what I have found over the years is that reliability requires diligence and trying not to make very many "assumptions".
 

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Hi Bismic! The oil filter is OEM/Motorcraft and I re-used the cap. I'm not sure if the cap is OEM but I've had it through many oil changes without an issue and it's the same cap that came with the truck when I got it about 80,000 miles ago. My batteries are good to go and while the truck was being worked on, they were disconnected and then hooked to a trickle charger prior to starting up again. I can't read the fuel pressure with the Scan Gauge but the truck starts and idles fine which makes me think the fuel pressure is good. The truck is just boggy off the line and then at about 1,500-2,000 RPMs, the turbo finally kicks in.
Just because it starts and idles fine does not mean your fuel pressure is good. Are you running any tunes on the truck I would put it back to stock to rule out any extra variables. Have you verified that your y pipe is connected to the back of the turbo completely? Are all your cac boots connected can you pressure test your charged cooling system?


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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Just because it starts and idles fine does not mean your fuel pressure is good. Are you running any tunes on the truck I would put it back to stock to rule out any extra variables. Have you verified that your y pipe is connected to the back of the turbo completely? Are all your cac boots connected can you pressure test your charged cooling system?


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Y’all, I can’t believe it… I went out to reattach the up pipe and figured I better go tighter with the clamp. I accidentally over tightened it, and it popped, but maintained the same tightness. From that point, I could not loosen it, and it would just spin when I tried to tighten again. I decided to take it on a test drive, and the power was back! About a block down the road, however, the clamp gave out and it was back to the same issue. I am on my way to get a new clamp and will not over tighten this one, but I think this has been my problem the whole time! Unbelievable…
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Well I'm back...:mad: I ended up taking a different truck to pull the camper for the weekend. I got to Advance Auto Parts and their clamp (the only 1 in town) was too small. I still bought it just to get the bolt and nut that came with it since I over-tightened the original one. After swapping that out, I got the original clamp with the new bolt tightened down and the truck still wasn't running right. I'm going to replace the entire clamp, if I can find one, and see how it does because I may have damaged the original clamp. If that doesn't work, I'm giving up and taking the truck into the shop to see if they can figure out what's wrong with it. Very frustrated with this truck but I know once it gets running right, the 6.0 is a great engine and I just can't wait to get my truck back!
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Just because it starts and idles fine does not mean your fuel pressure is good. Are you running any tunes on the truck I would put it back to stock to rule out any extra variables. Have you verified that your y pipe is connected to the back of the turbo completely? Are all your cac boots connected can you pressure test your charged cooling system?


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It starts fine but the engine seems to rock slightly as it idles and slightly shakes my body if I'm sitting in the driver seat. I don't have any tunes on the truck. I have been throwing a ratchet strap on the up pipe and that pulls up easy and seems to seat correctly. The y pipe would not budge and was a SOB to reconnect as I had to install the turbo at an angle to get it to seat. I'd hate to do it but I may just pull the turbo back out and try to re-seat it. When I did my oil pump about a year ago, the y pipe didn't give me nearly the trouble it did this time around.

All my CAC boots are in good condition but there is the portion where you connect the air filter tubes to the inlet of the turbo. I attached a picture of the part I'm talking about. The one I have is chewed up pretty good where the clamp goes over it on the turbo but I don't hear a leak coming from it when the truck is started. Could that part possibly be the culprit?
Auto part Font Rim Synthetic rubber Composite material
 

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The inlet to the turbo is not under pressure. You might pull air into the turbo at a bad connection (and have flow that is not "seen" by the MAF), but nothing will leak out.
 

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Be aware that the IPR % duty cycle is a command only.
 
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