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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I'm in the process of replacing my EGR up pipe that was leaking. It's been one problem after another in this process. So far I got all the up pipes unbolted. To do this, I had to remove the transmission and the transfer case. With the up pipes unbolted I can't seem to remove any of them. Looking from the back of the truck, I only needed to unbolt the left most pipe (one with the leak) but it wouldn't slip out so I figured unbolting the others might free up enough room to wiggle it out. However, when I went to move the right most pipe off the studs it just bumps into the exhaust down pipe before it's able to clear the studs. I need to remove this down pipe but I'm not sure yet how to do it. I haven't really followed it to see where its bolted at.

Is there a way to make this a bit easier? I've heard of people lifting the cab a couple inches. However, my HOA made me take the truck off the side of the road in front of my house and put it in the inclined driveway. I've also heard of people removing the fuel cooler to clear up some room to be able to pull the up pipes up and out from the engine bay rather than underneath.

Not sure how dangerous and bad that would be to lift the cab a couple inches on an incline? Anyone know? Any cautions to removing the fuel cooler?
 

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You only need to remove the V-Band clamp for the downpipe where it connects to the turbo. Push it against the firewall and that should give more than enough room to remove the up pipes. I did this without removing the trans/transfer case. The problems you run into with lifting the cab on an incline is it shifting over some which would make it a PIA to line the bolts back up. No need to remove any fuel related items when lifting the cab. Removing the fuel cooler gives tons of room to work. Only cautions given is you are suppose to replace the copper crush gaskets that the fuel lines go to. You’ll need to prime the fuel system when reconnecting to remove air from fuel. You’ll also need to remove air from the coolant that the fuel cooler uses so you don’t get a air lock. No big problems though
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks Cole. Which path did you take to remove the up pipes after you unbolted it? If you didn’t remove the trans/transfer case, I assume removing the fuel cooler gave you enough room to pull it out from above? Or did you do it out the side from the wheel well?
 

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Fuel cooler removal along with air intake did give enough room. I separated the passenger up pipe at the crossover tube so it’s easier to pull out. Then removed the passenger up pipe thought the passenger wheel well and crossover tube and driver up pipe through drive wheel well. It’s tight by surely possible. You have to kind of twist it as removing using where the crossover tube connects as the fulcrum point
 

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If you have a Fastenal nearby, you can take a bolt to them and match some up with the proper thread pitch. Get them a few inches longer to replace your cab bolts with. Then if you decide you want to raise the cab you don’t need to worry about it shifting.
 
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