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Discussion Starter #1
So what do the current and past Excursion owners have to say about buying a high mileage 7.3 Excursion. I'm looking at a two from down south with no rust and between 250k and 350k miles on the original motors. The two I'm looking at is one with 250k and original owner and 348k and the 2nd owner. Just looking for obvious things to look for that would throw up a red light to an experienced Excursion owner
 

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considering its just an suv body sitting on a truck chassis, treat it just like you would a non-excursion.
 

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Have you heard of the "Oil cap test"? With the engine running, take off the oil fill cap. Some smoke will come out, that is normal. Turn the oil cap upside and put it over the fill hole. If the pressure coming out of the hole blows the cap off, the engine has excessive blowby. I would steer clear. My 7.3 Excursion has 255k on it and won't even blow a napkin off the oil fill. If the engine has been properly maintained, there is no reason to fear 250k. 350k might scare me away though. I guess it depends on the price and how long you plan to keep it. And whether you hope to sell it when you are done. 350k is not an easy truck to sell.
Anyway, good luck. I love my X, although it will be for sale soon. Just need a pickup, otherwise I would never sell it.
Hey, you wanna come and buy mine?
 

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One thing to know going in is that if it hasn't been done already, plan on replacing the front springs. Those heavy motors wear the springs out, and being that an X sits a little lower than an F250, the axle bottoms out against the frame over no big deal bumps. It'll knock the fillings out of your teeth! I chose to put a 3" lift kit in mine. Not only was it new springs, bushings and shocks all in one, but it moved the axle 3" further from the frame, giving it more travel without bottoming out. Truck rides better, handles better, looks better, and it took care of all those maintenance items in one shot.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
No I didn't know about the oil cap test. I run my vehicles until the bodies are gone or the cost to repair them mechanically is not a wise investment. I'm looking for a 7.3 engine so that I don't have to spend thousands of dollars bullet proofing a 6.0, like I'm currently doing for my 2005 F250 CrewCab truck that I am building. I'm also tired of paying the local Chevy dealer insane money to fix my 2008 Escalade ESV Platinum vehicle that is so f*#*#*# complicated that I will never ever buy another one if I get my way, but my wife may disagree. LOL
 

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No I didn't know about the oil cap test. I run my vehicles until the bodies are gone or the cost to repair them mechanically is not a wise investment. I'm looking for a 7.3 engine so that I don't have to spend thousands of dollars bullet proofing a 6.0, like I'm currently doing for my 2005 F250 CrewCab truck that I am building. I'm also tired of paying the local Chevy dealer insane money to fix my 2008 Escalade ESV Platinum vehicle that is so f*#*#*# complicated that I will never ever buy another one if I get my way, but my wife may disagree. LOL
at 250k I would prepare for the worst and lets just say from my experience at those miles I would expect the following to be need to be done if it hasn't recently.

all 8 glow plugs, both under the valve cover harnesses- aprox: $250 USE OEM you don't want a cheap glow plug tip melting off or stripping...
Hpop lines-$140 from cncfab llc
fuel bowl revuild kit like $68
IPR/ICP sensors plus wire harness ends $450
oil cooler kit like $70

at250k plus its really 50/50 on injector but assume motorcraft stock remans maybe $1k-1500 plus 8 injector o ring kits maybe $60-70 USE OEM.... autozone, oriley ones will make you regret when they fail couple hundred miles down the road... use OEM for all the parts above you can research and see the nightmare generic brand IPRs and UVCH caused powerstroke owners... total like : 2500$ assuming the worst etc. Also the transmissions being a 4r100 arnt known to last much more than 150k so at 250k or 350k+ assume like $2500 for rord reman or a bit more for a sam wyse stage 1 or bts stage 1.

still was cheaper than my previous 6.0ls but at 20 yrs old they just have more thins that will need replaced sooner than later and again stick with oem parts/ o rings or you'll end up doing many thins twice costing more $$ and time in the end vs maybe 20% more upfront etc. This is all generally speaking from prices I pay at riffraff diesel and cncfab llc. every truck will be different and excursions are not much different except the PATS security system

within the first year I had to do glow plugs, uvchs, then 2 years later ICP, and IPR, and hpop lines, then fuel bowl reseal but my truck is now 100% leak free
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Maybe I should look for one with around 150k miles on it. I found a few but they are a little more money, but I wouldn't have to do as many repairs right away as one with 225k or more miles.
 

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With regular maintenance my 01 is at 295k. I've done a turbo, glow plugs, and the harness. Also grenaded the trans at 275 but I drive it like a sport car. This truck has zero blow-by, will blow off the tires, and pulls my boat or Jeep on a trailer like nothing. Upgrading the torque converter was a huge driving improvement for me and I'm running f350 springs which firm up the handling, provide a very small lift, and allows for slightly bigger tires. My wife drives it daily and absolutely loves the truck. Annoying things are the door sensors, back hatch seal. I've been broke down a few times over the 10 years I've owned it for the following: glowplug/injector harness melted, trans blew up second gear and took out the rest(limped to shop), and cps ( I was deployed and wife had to call it in) but is a 10 minute fix.
They are great trucks.
 

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