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Go for a drive and check the oil pan for leaks when you get back. Heard of alot of them leaking there and mine does. If so, the engine has to be pulled up to fix that. I bought my late 99 with right around 170k.
 

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Theres a thread in the tech files. What to look for when buying a used 99-03 PSD. Alot of useful info in there Jarrod.

But like stated above. Check for leaks. Check ball joints tie rods and wheel bearings for play. Get an Oasis report. Stuff like that:thumb:
 

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Discussion Starter #5
What to look for when buying a USED 99-03 PSD

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Here is what you want to check for when buying a used Powerstoke Diesel. I wish I had this when I bought mine, so I might as well grace others with this oppurtunity to know what to look for ahead of time. You can avoid money pits, constant problems which will ultimately turn you into a dodge fan, and never let you experience the "reliablility of the 7.3."

These are a few things my friend GregRob wrote up that I added to. I will continue to add to this with links after I pull them all out of my techfiles on my saved folders. Anybody have any links, info, or anything they want to add just PM or post here and I will intergrate the info into this post for you.

1.) Air filter. Look and see if the air filter box is intact i.e. no broken tabs / cracked housing / loose or cracked intake boots / pieces. Make sure it hasn't been bypassing dirt into the engine. You can also look at the fins on the turbine in the turbo. If it is eaten up bad (more than just a little) it has been making some serious contact with dirt and could indicate "dusting".
See any alerts here, demand a Cylinder Pressure / Compression Test before purchase.

2.) What about service records. It's nice to KNOW whether the services have been done or not. Not necessary but good to have. The more miles on the truck the more imortant the service records become.

3.) Melted stickers under the hood. You can look at the stickers under the hood to check for melting / distortion. This could indicate excess heat in the engine compartment and would require further investigation were it me. Also look for tears in the underhood insulation from broken belts or other things that could have gone awry.

on the belts part, whats the reason for being concerned?

4.) Towing equipment. Set up to tow? 5th Wheel / Gooseneck / Reese Hitch? See how much wear those components have. Try to find out what it used to tow, you don't want a tired old hotshot rig if you're looking for a daily driver to power up.

4.) The Tranny / Drivetrain. How does it drive down the road? How does it shift? At full throttle or light traffic driving. There's not much more you can do but feel it while you drive.

5.) Chips, Programmers, Mods? If it is modded, you have no idea how they treated the truck unless you know them or can trust them. Besides, it's more fun to start fresh and do the mods YOU want, if any.

6.) Water damage. Of course

7.) Fluids. A used oil analysis (IE: from blackstone labs) would be nice. It would let you know if wear levels are within spec and give a good indication of how well the previous owner maintained oil changes. The tranny fluid should be a rich red/pink color SHOULD NOT smell burned or look black. Brake fluid should be full / clean. See if the pinion seal on the rear differential is leaking, fairly common. If it is leaking, take the cost to fix off the price. You could also make sure the rear wheel seals aren't leaking.

if i do a oil analysis, how long does that take?

8.) Brakes, Balljoints, and Wheel Bearings. Does it go down the road and stop smooth? Any play in the front hub assy? Brakes may "vibrate" while coming to a stop since these are heavy trucks and the OEM rotors like to warp. In order to check for ball joints and wheelbearings jack one side of the front up. Have someone strong or capable hold the tire at 12 and 6 o clock. Have then forcefully move the tire back and forth. While this is happening you need to get in behind the tire and see if there is any movement. Check the hub assembly and ball joints for movement, if there is any then you need to replace them. here is a link to Powerstrokeshop.com - PSD and Ford Superduty Parts that sells kits for ball joints, wheel bearings, and other things.

9.) CPS Failures, some of these trucks are notorious for eating CPS's. They can leave you stranded anywhere anytime intermittedly. Finding out if it has been replaced (maybe more then once) might be a good idea. You never know when they'll go out, so it is best to carry a spare. These can often be had for under 60 bucks shipped on ebay, and can easily run in excess of 200 dollars at the dealership!!! It is a simple fix that is described in the "tech files" for the 7.3 forum.


In addition to that, I would consider having it scanned for codes with a capable scanner just for fun to see if it has any codes stored.

Take or leave what I've said there, getting a compression and leakdown test may not be practical for every consumer, but it makes you feel better when you drop a small fortune to know it is RIGHT....


On Edit by Logan: The price of the CPS has come down a great deal. So #9 is not 100% correct as far as the pricing goes. Check with your local Ford dealer for a price on the CPS.
 

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What to look for when buying a USED 99-03 PSD

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Here is what you want to check for when buying a used Powerstoke Diesel. I wish I had this when I bought mine, so I might as well grace others with this oppurtunity to know what to look for ahead of time. You can avoid money pits, constant problems which will ultimately turn you into a dodge fan, and never let you experience the "reliablility of the 7.3."

These are a few things my friend GregRob wrote up that I added to. I will continue to add to this with links after I pull them all out of my techfiles on my saved folders. Anybody have any links, info, or anything they want to add just PM or post here and I will intergrate the info into this post for you.

1.) Air filter. Look and see if the air filter box is intact i.e. no broken tabs / cracked housing / loose or cracked intake boots / pieces. Make sure it hasn't been bypassing dirt into the engine. You can also look at the fins on the turbine in the turbo. If it is eaten up bad (more than just a little) it has been making some serious contact with dirt and could indicate "dusting".
See any alerts here, demand a Cylinder Pressure / Compression Test before purchase.

2.) What about service records. It's nice to KNOW whether the services have been done or not. Not necessary but good to have. The more miles on the truck the more imortant the service records become.

3.) Melted stickers under the hood. You can look at the stickers under the hood to check for melting / distortion. This could indicate excess heat in the engine compartment and would require further investigation were it me. Also look for tears in the underhood insulation from broken belts or other things that could have gone awry.

on the belts part, whats the reason for being concerned?

4.) Towing equipment. Set up to tow? 5th Wheel / Gooseneck / Reese Hitch? See how much wear those components have. Try to find out what it used to tow, you don't want a tired old hotshot rig if you're looking for a daily driver to power up.

4.) The Tranny / Drivetrain. How does it drive down the road? How does it shift? At full throttle or light traffic driving. There's not much more you can do but feel it while you drive.

5.) Chips, Programmers, Mods? If it is modded, you have no idea how they treated the truck unless you know them or can trust them. Besides, it's more fun to start fresh and do the mods YOU want, if any.

6.) Water damage. Of course

7.) Fluids. A used oil analysis (IE: from blackstone labs) would be nice. It would let you know if wear levels are within spec and give a good indication of how well the previous owner maintained oil changes. The tranny fluid should be a rich red/pink color SHOULD NOT smell burned or look black. Brake fluid should be full / clean. See if the pinion seal on the rear differential is leaking, fairly common. If it is leaking, take the cost to fix off the price. You could also make sure the rear wheel seals aren't leaking.

if i do a oil analysis, how long does that take?

8.) Brakes, Balljoints, and Wheel Bearings. Does it go down the road and stop smooth? Any play in the front hub assy? Brakes may "vibrate" while coming to a stop since these are heavy trucks and the OEM rotors like to warp. In order to check for ball joints and wheelbearings jack one side of the front up. Have someone strong or capable hold the tire at 12 and 6 o clock. Have then forcefully move the tire back and forth. While this is happening you need to get in behind the tire and see if there is any movement. Check the hub assembly and ball joints for movement, if there is any then you need to replace them. here is a link to Powerstrokeshop.com - PSD and Ford Superduty Parts that sells kits for ball joints, wheel bearings, and other things.

9.) CPS Failures, some of these trucks are notorious for eating CPS's. They can leave you stranded anywhere anytime intermittedly. Finding out if it has been replaced (maybe more then once) might be a good idea. You never know when they'll go out, so it is best to carry a spare. These can often be had for under 60 bucks shipped on ebay, and can easily run in excess of 200 dollars at the dealership!!! It is a simple fix that is described in the "tech files" for the 7.3 forum.


In addition to that, I would consider having it scanned for codes with a capable scanner just for fun to see if it has any codes stored.

Take or leave what I've said there, getting a compression and leakdown test may not be practical for every consumer, but it makes you feel better when you drop a small fortune to know it is RIGHT....


On Edit by Logan: The price of the CPS has come down a great deal. So #9 is not 100% correct as far as the pricing goes. Check with your local Ford dealer for a price on the CPS.
The time an OA takes varies because of shipping. But generally about a week.

Carfax is a waste of time. An OASIS is a report from ford showing any work that was done under warranty. However if its a 99 model truck I may not be able to get one for you since food only keeps records back 10 years
 

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On the belts part its just an indicator if the truck was maintained
 

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As for body parts check all the door hinges. If any of them have paint chipped off of the head of the bolt thats an indication that there has been some body work. Same goes for the front fenders and hood. If the truck is already warmed up when you get there that raises a red flag. Look for oil marks on the ground were the truck is parked.
 

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As for body parts check all the door hinges. If any of them have paint chipped off of the head of the bolt thats an indication that there has been some body work. Same goes for the front fenders and hood.
While this is true in California and some southern states. Not necessarily true in states that get snow and ice. (Road salt is hell on paint)
 

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While this is true in California and some southern states. Not necessarily true in states that get snow and ice. (Road salt is hell on paint)
What I'm saying is if the door got smashed and a new skin was put the door would have to be removed to repair it and it would leave marks like this indicating some kind of repair has been done. You can see socket marks on the bolt and nut.

 

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I know what you are sayin Adam. Road salt here can also cause similar conditions. But being from Cali you wouldnt know that:doh:
 
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