Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum banner
61 - 80 of 107 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
803 Posts
Fantastic progress! I enjoyed reading!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
391 Posts
Discussion Starter · #66 ·
It got back burnered for a bit. First I tried to remove the end of my right hand ring finger while working on a mower deck. Then my wife's explorer had a very strange problem. It seems that the four wheel drive in "auto" mode works like a traction control. Well, in heavy rain she hit a pretty substantial puddle at low speed and the four wheel drive engaged. In her words, "There was a huge bang, grinding, then nothing." The engine basically freewheeled. After loading it on my trailor I thought, Transfer case. So I pulled it and found the input splines stripped along with the output shaft of the transmission. So they both had to come out. The biggest problem with the 5R55 is the out put shaft is the first component to be loaded into the case during a rebuild. So I had to stip it down, the transfer case, and I still wasn't too sure about the rest of the drive train. No smoking gun. Then I decided to service both differentials. The rear is pretty straight forward. Not a big deal. The front, you have to extract the oil. I started that and the suction line got plugged. I found bits of metal in the oil, so out it came. It gernaded and basically ground itself to fine chips. Neither spider gear was whole. The smoking gun. So I pulled it and she is now driving a two wheel drive four wheel drive explorer while I look for a replacement and overhaul it before putting it in. Then my son's 94 f150 ate the a/c compressor. Well we live in west TN so no air in a vehicle is pretty miserable. So we ordered a new compressor, condensor, accumulator, manifold set, and orfice tube. When those compressors let go, its always best to replace condenser, orifice tube, and accumulator. So I'm completing that with him tomorrow. I could be done already but I'm teaching him how to work it so we're going slow and basically rebuilding the a/c. It should run pretty good when completed. The only reason I'm replacing the compressor manifold line set is the Schrader valve is leaking and after changing the core it was still leaking. Its the first gen hose with a non replaceable Schrader body. So the only way to fix it is to replace the entire set. And.... it backordered once. It arrived this evening so we'll finish it tomorrow. Then its back to the dually.... finally.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,138 Posts
WOW.....YOU HAVE A LOT GOING ON.....

TAKE IT SLOW.....AND GET BACK TO YOUR PROJECT WHEN YOU CAN.....

THANKS FOR THE UPDATE.....
 
  • Like
Reactions: Spirit

·
Registered
Joined
·
391 Posts
Discussion Starter · #69 ·
I really appreciate everyone's kind comments and am looking forward to getting this thing done. I am Finally getting back to work on the truck. Having been absolutely swamped at work and Grand-kids. We got full custody of our 4 grand kids just before Wuhan struck. Its been interesting, but I think we're getting it under control. Anyway. I finally got some time to wheel the engine out and pull the plastic off it and see what I could get done this week. Its hard to start and stop a project like this. So I put the front cover on and some of the associated items that are attached to it.

 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,138 Posts
WELCOME BACK.....IT IS NICE TO SEE ANOTHER GREAT VIDEO ON THE ENGINE REBUILDING PROCESS.....

THANKS FOR POSTING IT.....PLEASE KEEP THEM COMING.....
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
391 Posts
Discussion Starter · #72 · (Edited)
Will u post a parts list please
I'll be posting the complete parts list when its completed. I haven't bought everything yet, but its around the $13.5k mark with machining. Its funny, the machining was less than I thought it would be. I even had the reciprocating assembly balanced. The parts list will include the complete job for getting the truck moving again. I still have brakes,steering, rear end, and some body and interior work to price yet. I started out with a $6000 truck that ran, but not well. The XLT interior was in real good shape and the body had a few dings but no rust anywhere. So, there is a bit more to do besides just getting the engine back together. However, it will sure be nice to get it moving again as its been sitting in front of my garage for 2 years. The wife is getting kind of impatient. It takes awhile to collect everything along with tons of research. I figure I'll have about 25k-28k into it when completed, which is a bit much but it will be mechanically sound and ready for a long life of load pulling. Its a whole lot cheaper than a modern vehicle and without the DEF problems and pollution equipment engine killing accessories that run 8-10k to repair when they go.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
391 Posts
Discussion Starter · #73 ·
I'll be posting the complete parts list when its completed. I haven't bought everything yet, but its around the $13.5k mark with machining. Its funny, the machining was less than I thought it would be. I even had the reciprocating assembly balanced. The parts list will include the complete job for getting the truck moving again. I still have brakes,steering, rear end, and some body and interior work to price yet. I started out with a $6000 truck that ran, but not well. The XLT interior was in real good shape and the body had a few dings but no rust anywhere. So, there is a bit more to do besides just getting the engine back together. However, it will sure be nice to get it moving again as its been sitting in front of my garage for 2 years. The wife is getting kind of impatient. It takes awhile to collect everything along with tons of research. I figure I'll have about 25k-28k into it when completed, which is a bit much but it will be mechanically sound and ready for a long life of load pulling. Its a whole lot cheaper than a modern vehicle and without the DEF problems and pollution equipment engine killing accessories that run 8-10k to repair when they go.
Make that 14K I just bought ISSpro guages
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
391 Posts
Discussion Starter · #74 ·
So in order to solve the 7.3 dipstick problem there are several good methods. However most of the ones involve o-rings of some sort and I didn't want a temporary fix to a problem. If a solution has o-rings there's a pretty good chance that it will need fixed again sometime later so I wanted a permanent fix. After doing some searches on the internet I pulled out my calipers and decided to create something I could make on my new lathe. By the way if you're going to buy a mini-lathe I would recommend either one from LittleMachineshop.com or PrecisionMathews.com. The PrecisionMathews is a really nice machine. Unfortunately, I bought a cheap one off of Ebay. Its an alright machine but lacks some features....like a carriage lock!!!. I'll be making one after using it this weekend. I only cut with High speed steel but facing with out a carriage lock is a challenge and the results can be seen in the pieces I created this weekend. Another thing, If you buy any of these less expensive machines you'll basically have to take it completely down to the chassis and lap all the surfaces to get any kind of consistency. I reworked mine enough to get the job done this weekend but a thorough set up is in its very near future. Anyway, I cut these out of some scrap in the shop, basically 2 inches at the widest part of the cylinder and cut down to 1.60 at the bottom by 0.125 so it will fit into the hole in the pan. Next cut the rest to 1.80 diameter leaving another 0.125 at 2.0, then part it off at 1.0 total height. Not too hard except I had to use my band saw to part it because of no carriage lock! Next draw a line through the center on the back like this.
770693


Set the grinder tool stops for 30 degrees on the grinder and grind the face like this. Keep the line parallel to the wheel. (My grinder was my dad's from the 50's)
770694


Set up the drill press at 30 degrees and be sure to lock all the vice slides once its lined up.
770695


Drill the first hole at 0.400 deep. Bit size is 31/64
770697


With only a bit change drill the second hole. Bit size is 25/64.You'll end up with something like this.
770698


That's about it. It can be welded into the pan and its a permanent fix.
770699


Here's a couple of shots of the finished adapter. It needs cleaned and welded in. I'll have a shot of that when its done.
Front
770700


Back
770701
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
391 Posts
Discussion Starter · #76 ·
To be sure of an accurate fit of the dipstick I installed the old adapter and measured the depth of the dipstick from the sidewall of the pan. Then I measured the new adapter and its within a 1/64 of the same depth, so I would say its a good part and a good fit. the dipstick o-ring is a nice firm fit. Now to weld it in. It took me three days to find the darn dipstick. I "put it up" when I removed it to be sure it didn't get bent....... I'll be so glad when this engine is completely together....
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,138 Posts
YOU DO KNOW THAT NOW YOU ARE GOING TO GET A LOT OF ORDERS FOR YOUR PERMANENT O-RING FREE OIL DIPSTICK ADAPTOR.....
 
61 - 80 of 107 Posts
Top