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Discussion Starter #141
Got some parts in for the traction bars and flat bed. And have a firm date of 12/14 to start the engine work. Looking forward to making some real head way coming up. Will keep you guys updated.





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Discussion Starter #142
Far from stock diy traction bars are together. Need to prep and paint. And install mounting brackets. Moving onward. Anybody use these before?





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The ones I made are very similar to yours, I got everything from ballistic fab.


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Discussion Starter #144
The ones I made are very similar to yours, I got everything from ballistic fab.


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I have a question then For you. Once the brackets are installed on the frame and axle, and the bar is set in place, how to I put tension on it? The heim joint is threaded but the other end is fix solid with a bushing?


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Discussion Starter #145
Alright guys got to the machine shop and finally started the process. Got a lot of stuff cleaned and checked. Disassembled the heads completely and found a few small cracks but in the seats only. We are going to replace the seats. In looking into pistons as an upgrade to stock. All else is looking good. I’m happy to have it over there and started. Hers a few pics.






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500 hp and reliable with stock heads?
 

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I have a question then For you. Once the brackets are installed on the frame and axle, and the bar is set in place, how to I put tension on it? The heim joint is threaded but the other end is fix solid with a bushing?


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It will have to be disconnected.
Thread the heim out far enough so it is a hair shy of the bolt hole on both sides.
Then lift and support the rear end.
Droop the axle out until your bars line up.
 

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Discussion Starter #149
It will have to be disconnected.
Thread the heim out far enough so it is a hair shy of the bolt hole on both sides.
Then lift and support the rear end.
Droop the axle out until your bars line up.
Ahhhhh gotcha. Thank you. I’m new to traction bars so I wasn’t sure. Thanks for your help hoping to have the mounts installed soon and will be posting pics


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Ahhhhh gotcha. Thank you. I’m new to traction bars so I wasn’t sure. Thanks for your help hoping to have the mounts installed soon and will be posting pics


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If it rides like excrement for some reason, try going the other way, take the heims a hair further than the bolt hole. And if all else fails just set them straight on at regular ride height and call it good.
 

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I have a question then For you. Once the brackets are installed on the frame and axle, and the bar is set in place, how to I put tension on it? The heim joint is threaded but the other end is fix solid with a bushing?


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I used threaded rod ends on both sides with jam nuts so I could turn it when installed then tighten her up when I felt good with it.


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Discussion Starter #152
Ok thanks for the tips guys. Maybe this weekend if I have time I’ll get a chance to get some welding done.


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Discussion Starter #153
Alright, we had a big day at the machine shop finally. Machined the block. Cleaned more pieces. Got cam, crank and pistons in for a full short block. Polished the crank. One more weekend and we will have a long block done and ready for me to take home. Been a while since I’ve got some time to work on it but I’m getting excited again. Hers a few pics! Hopefully some of you guys are still following along.









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Discussion Starter #154
Can anyone shed some light on the ccv reroute? I’m ordering some other needed parts and I’m looking at this part (in pic) thinking to my self I either need to replace it or do something about it. It just looks nasty inside and out and I think it is the ccv? Can anyone help me on that? Should it have coolant in it? If not I think it was spilled in there in transit. Also here’s a pic of my new engine building room so I can be warm and clean to assemble this thing in comfort. A little ugly but works good and allows me to keep working since my shop isn’t insulated or heated.




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To get rid of that ccv piece you will need a set of PSP (or similar) valve covers. People usually reroute the ccv AFTER that piece. That engine room should be toasty in seconds lol

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Discussion Starter #156
To get rid of that ccv piece you will need a set of PSP (or similar) valve covers. People usually reroute the ccv AFTER that piece. That engine room should be toasty in seconds lol

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Ok awesome thanks I’ll look into it. Is there any benefits to doing this? And u it got warm quick in there. It was great. Much nicer the the 15-20 it was outside.


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I'm going with KDD stage 2 long block. I don't have the time or shop space anymore. Your build and work looks great. Id cut and shorten the frame to right behind rear spring hangers but that's just me.
 

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Discussion Starter #158
I'm going with KDD stage 2 long block. I don't have the time or shop space anymore. Your build and work looks great. Id cut and shorten the frame to right behind rear spring hangers but that's just me.
I would but I actually need the length because I’ll be hauling my rzr on the flat bed that I’m building and it’s pretty much exactly what I need to fit it. I have a rzr now instead of a ranger but its the same length. Here my mock out for the bed.








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Discussion Starter #159
Got some more work done on the build recently. Got the Engine up on a stand. Oil pans on. Rear cover. Front cover. Lifters in. Just about ready for gaskets and heads. Measured piston protrusion out of precaution due to having the stage 2 cam. Will measure valve recession once we get the heads together. Hoping the measurements together are something I can work with and not have any issues with interference. Another part of the build is underway. Started the bed tonight. Got the back half built. Will need to mount this section on the truck and start building the front part. Here’s a few pics of my progress.






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Discussion Starter #160
Got just a Few things done yesterday. Got some small parts on the engine. Put the studs in. Just have to do the head work. Hoping one more day of work at the shop will finish it off for me. Also got the ol girl pushed inside so I can finish fabbing up the bed frame.




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