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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Never had any issue before. Anyway, I have a new Kill Devil engine in my truck. Truck runs OK but when its cold outside, the heater in the cab takes FOREVER to get hot. I mean....you have to have the engine at operating temps to get it to start getting warm. Once you drive and are on the road and going, the heater seems to work fine.

So, I have no EGR system, the intake is an ODAWG Stage 3 intake. The coolant has been rerouted from the back of my oil cooler base (its a BPD air to Oil cooler) to the heater hose under the degas bottle. I noticed the line from the oil cooler base being rerouted is kinked. Anyway, I am going to fix that but I don't think that has a thing to do with my heater issue.

One observation I had is that the hard tube coming off the front of the motor that ends up going to the plastic heater hose valve is ice cold while the motor is heating up. The engine gets to op temp fine, but that line is always cold. The other heater hose eventually gets hot, but this one stays cold or luke wamr most of the time.

Which line is supposed to be hot coolant coming into the heater core? None of this is making any sense to me so I'm lost. It seems to me that if i had no heat in the cab, then the tube coming off the front of the motor would be hot and the one coming out of the firewall to the degas would be cold. Mine is exactly opposite.
 

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The first question would be do you have this valve? It shuts the flow to the heater core (Max AC) but if something is wrong it can shut off the flow under any circumstance, despite defaulting to full flow. And yes the pipe out of the cover should be hot.

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I hate that pipe. Potentially something could be clogging the pipe at the cover end.
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
Yes. I have that valve. And yes, that is the pipe that is cold during warmup. The SCANGUAGE shows steady temp increase to 195, and that pipe seems to just kind of stay cold during it. Considering that entire thing was put together at Kill Devil's shop, I can't imagine there being any issue there. I dont know if that valve 'works', but I can move it in and out by hand so it's free. Whether or not its staying closed, I can't say. if its stuck shut, and no coolant ever flows past, then I guess that entire pipe would stay cold since nothing is flowing. That all said, the heater starts to warm up a little as the truck gets to 195 and eventually it gets hot and stays hot, so SOMETHING is moving through the heater core. I just figured the damn truck heater has to be producing some noticeable heat as soon as the coolant temps get over 100 degrees for crying out loud. Maybe not anymore. Maybe something is different about this motor and cooling strategy on the tune. I don't know.

As I said, it does get hot once up to temp and youre on the road. I just don't recall it taking so long before. The fact that it DOES get warm means it has to be flowing enough to keep up with the air flow over the core....so, I don't know. Maybe Im full of crap and just don't recall. I thought it sure started making noticeable heat within 10 minutes of starting it. Maybe thats just the way this motor and new setup runs and I'm not remembering correctly.

Is there any chance the kinked line that goes out the back of the oil cooler base has anything to do with it?
 

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Out of the back of the oil cooler, no.

A restricted amount of coolant flow in that bypass circuit (heater circuit) would slow the warmth of the heater output.

"Considering that entire thing was put together at Kill Devil's shop, I can't imagine there being any issue there." In your diagnosis, you can't eliminate that. But it also could be a restricted heater core.

Unfortunately, there is no easy way to sort this out, from my view. I know no spec that says how many GPM flows through the heater core circuit. You could pull the hose off the back of the valve, attach a 3/4" hose to the valve leading to a bucket and watch the flow rate (a few seconds with someone else behind the wheel to shut off the engine).

Then move back to the pipe off the front cover and do the same, after putting the coolant in the bucket back into the Degas bottle. I have no idea if the hose could go to the Degas bottle without a serious splash. You could pull off all that in the circuit and use a garden hose or compressed air to check flow.

Is this a new front cover or an old one? I ask because there was someone, I believe at FTE, that bought a new front cover with an engine from Dynamic Diesel. Unfortunately, the front cover had a casting flaw that prevented proper flow through the system. It's an easy miss unless you closely inspect the cover and know it.

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
Eh...The fact that it gets hot and stays hot in the cab after a while means it must be getting something. At least it eventually gets hot. Probably the thing to do here is not fix what may not be broken. I'll just let it high idle for 20 minutes before getting in. LOL.

I still think that once the X4 says the coolant temp is 100 degrees that I should be able to notice that in the cab. Maybe I'm wrong.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I just checked it again. Guys, this is blowing my mind. The INLET hose for the heater core is COLD. The inlet hose, the valve, the silicone hose from the valve to the metal pipe on the front of the motor, the metal pipe itself....COLD. Not trace of heat at all even after the truck temp is 130 degrees after 10 minutes of idling. The OUTLET HOSE for the heater core is HOT. How on god's earth is this even possible? The heater core is somehow getting some hot coolant but I can't figure out how.
 

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I just checked it again. Guys, this is blowing my mind. The INLET hose for the heater core is COLD. The inlet hose, the valve, the silicone hose from the valve to the metal pipe on the front of the motor, the metal pipe itself....COLD. Not trace of heat at all even after the truck temp is 130 degrees after 10 minutes of idling. The OUTLET HOSE for the heater core is HOT. How on god's earth is this even possible? The heater core is somehow getting some hot coolant but I can't figure out how.
I'm not entirely sure how it works, but there is a hose running from the degas to the heatercore that merges with the heater hose with the valve. Maybe it's coming from there? That is strange though. I would pull that pipe and see if there are any obstructions.
 

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That's a good point to check. With the engine install, it's possible the metal pipe part of that got crushed.
 

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I had this problem when I first got my 05. Took way too long for the heater to get hot. Engine Thermostat was stuck open. Might explain your cold pipe/hose/bypass valve.

Couple other things:
Faulty blend door actuator
Vacuum leak causing the bypass valve to not fully function.
Heater core partially clogged not allowing full flow.

Could be a combination of these things.

I'm leaning toward bad T-stat since you say the inlet pipe/hose are cool even after running for a bit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I ruled out the thermostat since, one, it's literally brand new, but also, while watching my programmer, I can watch the temperature get to 195, and then somewhere there, it drops, as the thermostat is opening. Also, all of the other hoses around the motor are getting warm.

I'm leaning toward something with that pipe or that heater valve. I don't know how that heater valve can be actuated by hand and not open and close inside, but that's the only thing that actually makes sense. I guess the pipe could have an obstruction, but I don't even know how that's possible. If it was crushed, it wouldn't be able to be installed in the top of the front cover. I'll look around some more and see.
 

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The crushed pipe we are talking about is the one that runs against the firewall, heater to degas bottle.
 

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A few months ago we were talking about that heater valve.

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And that heater valve needs the vacuum connection. Make sure there is a vacuum line on that valve.
 

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Sounds like it is time to pull the heater lines and use a garden hose to back flush the heater core -- would also be the time to check flow from the tube at the water pump

Those vent lines on the degas bottle connect to the top tank on the radiator and the intake manifold @TooManyToys @mlgjellybean123

The vacuum on the heater valve is only ON when the controls are in OFF and AC Max -- so don't need to be connected in the winter

A kink in the heater return hose at the rear of the engine would cause low flow -- tho the metal tube at the water pump should be hot -- possible restriction or plastic cap in that tube -- also the "foot" on the thermostat has to be in place to force coolant thru the system -- I have seen these fall off
 

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How did the degas venting lines get into this?

Good to know about the T/S foot.
 

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How did the degas venting lines get into this?

Good to know about the T/S foot.
Post #13 -- but I may have mis-read -- was not thinking about the Y pipe connection below the degas bottle
Degas bottle and heater valve in the same thought did not connect - since they are on different sides of the flow
 

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Post #13 -- but I may have mis-read -- was not thinking about the Y pipe connection below the degas bottle
Degas bottle and heater valve in the same thought did not connect - since they are on different sides of the flow
I am talking about the line that runs along the firewall from the degas bottle to maybe the heater core? I'm trying to remember where it goes. Not sure what side of flow that is but the heater core has to be getting coolant somehow otherwise it would just be cold all the time.
 

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That is the return from the heater to the water pump suction -- the pressure side is the line at the front of the engine that runs to the heater valve

Yeah, I think I may have had one too may cups of coffee this morning -- got a little torqued up on the posts
 
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I find it odd that the OP says the heat is in the line from the water pump suction / degas bottle -- heat should first be noticed in the metal tube at the front of the engine where it connects to the water pump housing
 
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Discussion Starter · #20 · (Edited)
I find it odd that the OP says the heat is in the line from the water pump suction / degas bottle -- heat should first be noticed in the metal tube at the front of the engine where it connects to the water pump housing
Yes, that’s what is confusing. As is the fact that the heater DOES work, it just takes forever to get hot. The valve was removed today, it looks like it hangs partially closed but certainly not enough to cause that much issue. There was also coolant in that line. I’ll replace the valve and probably clamp off the heater line and run the truck with the metal pipe part into a bucket and see if it’s running through there ok. If it is, then I have to chock it up to everything working fine. Since I have that other coolant line that was kinked, while it was hot, I was able to unkink it with my hand during warmup and you can feel that line get instantly hot so I don’t see any reason whatsoever to suspect a thermostat or water pump issue (This line is from the back of the oil cooler base, it is an EGR bypass coolant line and has nothing to do with the heater I understand). I'm just making a point that coolant is in fact flowing throw all other parts of the system.

the entire thing is confusing to me, but it’s going to be hot here in Texas in a month or two so it won’t be a problem for long.
 
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